Savage 99 triggers

bjjzak

CGN Regular
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Any one out there have any pointers on tuning the Savage 99 trigger? I have an E series 308 with a 452### serial number. It's not bad but in terms of sear engagement and possibly pull weight, is there any way to approach / tune this? Let me know guys!
 
A trigger job on a 99 is done the same way it is on any other rifle. Polish the mating sear and hammer parts and change the springs. Wolf Springs has extra power hammer springs designed to improve lock time and ignition reliablity. $7.49 US each. No fuss getting it either. Wolf deals with Canadian sales the same way they deal with U.S. sales.
1-800-545-0077. 8:30 to 4:30 Eastern time. Monday to Friday. They have voice mail for after hours calls too. Add the W's.
.gunsprings.com/resources/welcomeNOF.html
 
A trigger job on a 99 is done the same way it is on any other rifle. Polish the mating sear and hammer parts and change the springs. Wolf Springs has extra power hammer springs designed to improve lock time and ignition reliablity. $7.49 US each. No fuss getting it either. Wolf deals with Canadian sales the same way they deal with U.S. sales.
1-800-545-0077. 8:30 to 4:30 Eastern time. Monday to Friday. They have voice mail for after hours calls too. Add the W's.
.gunsprings.com/resources/welcomeNOF.html

X2!! The only difference between the M99 and "other" rifles is that the parts are more easily accessable on 99s than some others.:)
A question for you: Is there a safe way to reduce the enormous sear contact area on a 99?
 
Thanks guys! Shopping time we go! I was wondering about the sear contact thingy myself, to try and grind that down (roughly 1/8 to 5/16 of an inch) would probably change the temper of the metal, and I'm sure that the back side of the sear is shaped as is (big sloping curve) for a reason. Anyone ever done a sear contact reduction job on a 99?
 
Don't grind any part of a sear or any of the internal parts. It's very easy to grind that wee tiny bit too much that will then require replacing the part. Polish only.
There actually is no hammer in a 99. It's more of a striker. Your 99E is the only model that actually has a sear too. Polish the mating surfaces where it meets the hammer/striker. Remember that it's not a target rifle.
The design is old and has all kinds of bits and pieces. Especially for the sear. Have a look at the exploded drawing here. http://stevespages.com/ipb-savage-99.html
 
Unless you left out a letter on the front of that serial number that ain't no 99E.

Polishing is the best you can do with the 99 but even that isn't enough on some of the ones I've come across but theres no other route.
 
There is a "B" in front of that serial number. That would explain why my dissassembly guide was a bit out of whack. I took everything apart and did the polishing route and trued the release points on the sear and striker,as they were not square to each other. Better, cleaner release and a bit lighter (not quite a pound). Not bad.
Then I remembered I had some 'Sentry' specialty lube from my M14/305 playdays. I gave all the mating & pivot surfaces /points a treatment, cured it as per instructions, and what a difference that made. Basically a variation of Moly, it made a very nice improvement on the pull, smoothed it out even more and lightened it another pound plus. Trigger is now at around 4-4.5 lbs, fairly crisp for what it is, but much smoother overall. Nicer indeed. Too bad there's no way to safely trim a 1/8 or so off of that sear / striker engagement. She's still a long pull, but at least it's liveable now.
 
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