savage 99 vs Browning BLR and now vs win. 88
- Thread starter jogforfun
- Start date
if you hate it that much, sell it to one who would appreciate it more- out of the hundreds of folks on this board who own savage 99s, you're the first I've heard of that's been injured by one, esp the lever- almost suggests it's either the way you hold the gun, a poor casting , or a sharp trigger- the first can be cured by a shooting coach, the the second by a smith, and the third by a trigger shoe or a dremel-there's no point in holding on to a gun you have so much distaste for- oh and I've been in the savage 99 camp since 1970 or so- also model 99-c in 308
come to think on it, if ANY rifle bites you, you're doing something WRONG
Last edited:
It was not my index finger get cut. It was the other three fingers which were in the loop. The recoil moves the gun backward, so the lever handle may cut the fingers as the three fingers are in the small loop. Such thing won't happen in bolt action as all the fingers except the trigger finger are free from the restriction.
I will keep this 99C for the sake of having one. I don't want to continue to badmouth lever guns as I am sure millions of lever fans will be offended.
I will keep this 99C for the sake of having one. I don't want to continue to badmouth lever guns as I am sure millions of lever fans will be offended.
Savage 99s are prone to stock cracks in the area behind the top tang.
BLRs are mousetraps; John Moses would be rolling in his grave if he knew that his name was on these things. I had to work on them when customers brought them in, and as a result of this experience wouldn't own one.
BLRs are mousetraps; John Moses would be rolling in his grave if he knew that his name was on these things. I had to work on them when customers brought them in, and as a result of this experience wouldn't own one.
I have still never ran into that one- mine doesn't move at all and i'm using 308/180s- the blr won't do that as the trigger moves with the lever- I can't quite envision as to how you are shooting- my index goes on the trigger, and the other 3 are back in the loop in the traditional lever grip- I don't get "the small loop" and as to why the rifle is moving at all- mine suffers from short lop so I had a couple of pads put on to give me an extra 2 inches and it snugs right like it's supposed to-
How did you put a pad on? I might need to wrap the lever handle with soft string to soften the cut. My ring finger got cut every time by the back moving lever handle.
As you can see from the following pic, the index finger is in the trigger guard loop, the other three fingers are in the other loop. The recoil causes the quick backward movement which let the loop cut the three fingers. In my case, it was ring finger got cut.
As you can see from the following pic, the index finger is in the trigger guard loop, the other three fingers are in the other loop. The recoil causes the quick backward movement which let the loop cut the three fingers. In my case, it was ring finger got cut.
got a slip-on pad- one of those dead cheap ones from cdn tire/Walmart- mine was 12.95- it's nothing more than a recoil pad with a sleeve- you need to cut a notch for the sling swivel before you put it on- I can't see why that loop would be cutting your finger unless there's a rough surface inside the loop- if there is, you can fix that with a dremel- mine is solid blue, not case coloured like yours- and I don't wear a ring- that could be it as well- the top/bottom edges of the ring are digging into the finger under recoil-there's something funny still-that lever SHOULDN'T move under recoil- it almost sounds like it's not locking up properly-it's really a job for a smith , but if you have a LOOOONG handled screwdriver, you can take the buttplate off, then the stock screw( it's a blade btw) and take off the buttstock- then you'll see a screw at the back of the action-open the action and it should be sloppy for the first 3/4s of the stroke but real tight almost to the point of you can't close it for the last 1/4 stroke- that's the bolt camming into the back of the action- if you can't close it, that screw is too tight, if it's too loose it'll just flop- or you can let a smith do it- get one that knows what he's doing like barry over at bits of pieces- it's not an action for everyone- you should also check to see if your stock screw is tight- like I said - NOTHING should move under recoil
now that I can see your rifle, the first thing I notice is there's a considerable WIDER gap between the stock and the lever- mine butts up against it-tight as a drum- that's either lock-up or a loose buttstock-schematics for the 99-c are on line
now that I can see your rifle, the first thing I notice is there's a considerable WIDER gap between the stock and the lever- mine butts up against it-tight as a drum- that's either lock-up or a loose buttstock-schematics for the 99-c are on line
Last edited:
it doesn't directly adjust the bolt locking, but I found it quite by accident- case of too loose, doesn't lock up at all, too tight and it's all you can do to force the ever shut- part no 24 or on the exploded- bolt stop screw - now you'll tell me i'm wrong and it's used for something else- you ALWAYS do- but this what worked on MY rifle
OK, the bolt stop is the little block fastened by a screw on top of the lower tang. When the bolt is opened, the tail of the bolt makes contact, to stop the bolt's travel.
I am trying to envision how this screw could affect the locking action of the bolt, as it is cammed into place.
I am trying to envision how this screw could affect the locking action of the bolt, as it is cammed into place.
If you're talking about my rifle, someone before I got it had cut the buttplate end flat. Most gunsmiths use a chop saw and then a disc sander to square up the end of the stock. I threw away the crappy vintage pad that was on it and had my local smith install a new pachmyer decelerator, which in my view is the best rifle hunting pad on the market. They are fitted in a fixture and match the contours like a factory pad - but much grippier on the shoulder and much softer.
why not the original Sako and only the 88 copy ????
John Wesley Hardin
CGN Regular
- Location
- 45.457 x - 77.239
I have owned all 3 makes and in my humble opinion the Savage 99 was the best in form and function
Hardin
Hardin
Pretty rare bird. Hopefully someone will pipe up. I'd like to know too.
As for the eighty-eight, I picked a new-to-me '56 .308 this past spring and will give it a go in deer season. Shoots fine on the range but the trigger feels like its pulling thru gravel.
I have it set up 'old school' with a Weaver K4 in a Weaver flip mount.
All I can find on the finn wolf is they group well, are a "joy to shoot" and you can not get any parts for them. also one review says they look like a model 88 but are completely different, but I am not sure how the are different? would love someone to weigh in on it. as I said I have only shot a model 88 once and found it sloppy.
My initial thoughts are along Hardin's. I haven't field tested my 88 yet but I'm betting it doesn't handle as well as my 99. I believe there's 2" more barrel on the Winchester.
Winchester Model 88 at Selkirk range left side
had many 88's for a while, they were fun for a while, but they are all gone now. Enjoy them while you can and then you will find yourself moving on, try a Finnwolf, if you can find one, no matter who tells ya they are the same as the 88's just glorified a little, poke 'em in the eye with a sharp stick and tell them to, well you know what, they are definitely not the same in any way, other than similar in looks! If you like 88's, you will love a Sako Finnwolf! I know, I did.
