Savage 99f question

nomad 68

nomad 68

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Hello, i picked up a 99f in .308 of another cgn member a couple of months or so ago. It has a gloss finish that was obviously put on during a refinish because I have never seen a gloss 99f. It is very well done and I was going to leave it as is. I was assured that the rifle had no tang cracks but while installing a scope this evening, I noticed it has an inch and a half to two inch crack on right side of tang. I hadn't fired it yet. I will give the seller the benefit of the doubt and assume he didn't know the crack was there because he has an excellent trader rating.
So it turns out that now I have a crack to repair so I would also like to strip the gloss finish and redo it to original.I guess I have a couple of questions.First, what is best way to repair the crack . second,what finish would best duplicate the original finish of a 99f and is there stain needed? Thanks.
 
Raton57 said:
Tru Oil seems to do a good job. Are you going to shoot the rifle enough to warrant fixing it in the first place.
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I have a fair bit of tru oil on hand but I find it leaves a glossy finish. As for the crack, depending on how well it shoots, this might become my go to still hunter. So, fixing the crack( stabilizing it) it is a must ( for peace of mind alone). I will relieve a small amount of wood behind the tang upon refinish but not enough to be noticeable.
 
Any idea what material the gloss finish consists of? Makes a difference.
If some twit put polyurethane on it'll be more difficult to remove. Usually needs alcohol to remove(not the sippin' kind. Although that works). I'd scratch an inconspicuous spot and try putting oil on it. A scratch on poly won't disappear.
If the guy put a lot of tung oil on, you're SOL. Tung oil soaks into wood to at least 1/4" and is a hellacious bi*ch to get out. Gloss varnish or the like isn't that much trouble. Any varnish remover will do.
Tru Oil is a commercial linseed and other stuff based product. Apparently dries flat. Don't use commercial wood products myself.
Cracks are fixed with one of the needle type epoxy applicators.
 
sunray said:
Any idea what material the gloss finish consists of? Makes a difference.
If some twit put polyurethane on it'll be more difficult to remove. Usually needs alcohol to remove(not the sippin' kind. Although that works). I'd scratch an inconspicuous spot and try putting oil on it. A scratch on poly won't disappear.
If the guy put a lot of tung oil on, you're SOL. Tung oil soaks into wood to at least 1/4" and is a hellacious bi*ch to get out. Gloss varnish or the like isn't that much trouble. Any varnish remover will do.
Tru Oil is a commercial linseed and other stuff based product. Apparently dries flat. Don't use commercial wood products myself.
Cracks are fixed with one of the needle type epoxy applicators.
Click to expand...
I would be confident in betting it is done with varathane.
 
Check out Midway USA Larry Potterfield on yoo toob. He has a segment on crack repair and it is excellent. As for a finish I would use BLO hand rubbed and re do the fore end as well. About 12 to 15 coats (layers) will do nicely.

Darryl
 
Since the cracked tang was difficult to see, the wood inside is probably clean. If there are traces of oil, use acetone to degrease. That might eat into your finish, but the crack has to be oil free. Spread the crack enough to get some warmed Brownell's Accuglas epoxy in to the break. A fine needle, acupuncture type will move the Accuglas into all but the very finest of the crack. A blast of pressurized air might get it in even farther. Remove excess epoxy with a wipe. Cover or wrap the crack area with Saranwrap or the like and apply pressure with an elastic band wrap, I use surgical tubing, to close the crack completely. Leave it alone for at least 24 hours. Then hope everything lined up perfectly. You may have some surplus on the crack line to clean up but with care, you should have to look hard to see where it was.
 
wallym said:
Since the cracked tang was difficult to see, the wood inside is probably clean. If there are traces of oil, use acetone to degrease. That might eat into your finish, but the crack has to be oil free. Spread the crack enough to get some warmed Brownell's Accuglas epoxy in to the break. A fine needle, acupuncture type will move the Accuglas into all but the very finest of the crack. A blast of pressurized air might get it in even farther. Remove excess epoxy with a wipe. Cover or wrap the crack area with Saranwrap or the like and apply pressure with an elastic band wrap, I use surgical tubing, to close the crack completely. Leave it alone for at least 24 hours. Then hope everything lined up perfectly. You may have some surplus on the crack line to clean up but with care, you should have to look hard to see where it was.
Click to expand...

^^^ This. And warm up the stock a bit and the Accuglas will penetrate a bit more..
 
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