savage accu trigger or Ruger 10/22

when this ammo is fired in a semi, the light weight of the bullet does not impart enough energy into the bolt/recoil spring to drive the bolt all the way back. the recoil spring then does not have energy to strip the next cartridge from the aftermarket mags ( that are probably a little tight to start with) and does not completely end up in battery all the time. So when you pull the trigger there is a cushion effect and the cartridge will not fire. ( this does not happen in your 21 yr old squires because the recoil spring is that old and probably a little slack... I wonder if you would get similar results with a new recoil spring in the squires)
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I don't know what the answer is. I do know the Squires bolt spring is about a 4 inch long coil that has LOTS of tension. Oddly enough that was a selling point to the ruger...It was much easier to #### the bolt. So to me, it seems the Ruger's bolt should slam open harder due to a lighter/weaker bolt spring. Maybe the *weaker* spring hasn`t got the jazz to close the bolt hard/tight enough.
I honestly don't know.
Or do I?.......(fresh thought) When I replaced the trigger assembly with Rimfire's *Hi perf trigger assembly* I didn`t put the original ruger hammer spring and hammer strut back in as they didn't seem to fit into the new hammer. Should they somehow be in there? :confused:
 
Rick65Cat said:
... So to me, it seems the Ruger's bolt should slam open harder due to a lighter/weaker bolt spring. .
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That is most common misconception. Bolt acceleration rate is governed mostly by the weight of the bolt, not recoil spring tension. Weaker recoil spring only makes reload slower and may have trouble picking up next round out of magazine and chambering. To deal with lighter bolts one has two options - use pussy-loaded ammo, like subsonics or standard velocity or make bolt heavier. To make bolt heavier there is practically one option - replace cocking handle with heavier metal one. There are some aftermarket cocking handles for Rugers but for everything else one has to make his own.
 
X2 on the CZ. Just bought a leftie CZ452 and it is a darlin little rifle. Sold the 1022 and a Marlin 39a for enough to buy the CZ outright. I got tired of doing things to the 1022 to make it shoot better too and the Marlin showed me how bad it was. I expect the CZ will tack drive out of the box and I also expect I will want to do nuthin to it too. Got a Nikon Prostaff rimfire 4x scope with spectacular optics and will take her out and break her in this week. Shoulda done this a couple of years ago.
 
No, I didn't reinstall the strut. Simply cause I couldn't...

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/?action=view&current=struthammer_edited.jpg
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/?action=view&current=strutinhammer_edited.jpg
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t269/Rick65Cat/?action=view&current=2hammers_edited.jpg

Heres three pics of the new hammer vs old hammer and the strut with old hammer.
The new hammer hasn't got the slot machined into it to accomodate the "spade" end of the strut.
And by the way, there is NO mention of installing the strut in this Valquartzen video.
https://www.volquartsen.com/vc//public/Page.do?page=Videos
 
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Cyclones work great in our 10/22s My son and I have identical models, his worked great right out of the box whereas mine was hit and miss. I measured both of our firing pins and found mine was about .015" shorter. I called Ruger about this and asked for a replacement pin. They sent a complete bolt assembly and my 10/22 has since taken a multitude of gophers. Ruger's after sales service is A-1. Once you get that sorted out, Rimfire central shows how to lighten the trigger. It's well worth it.
 
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