I have a savage 114 7mm mag left hand, I was going to put a bolt lift kit because lifting the bolt to empty the chamber was a bit stiff, then got the kit and figured it was a bit much for me to do, so I put the bolt back on tighten up the nut at the back of the bolt and now it's 100x worse, any ideas, nearest decent gunsmith is hours away
savage experts help me please
- Thread starter 6.5x55swm
- Start date
Have a close look at the cocking pin, some times when assembling it drifts tight. It needs to ride on the bearing surface with the bolt body. Also, lube the bolt handle angled piece which rides on the baffle. some times this item causes some issue. Watch some videos and take it apart. With a good cleaning and the lift kit you will enjoy it much better. I have installed several of the lift kits and they are worth the effort. Good luck.
Elky
Elky
Not being a smart, but it will be easier to cycle the bolt when the firing pin is cocked than when camming it around in order to #### it.
Let's try this...to get and allen wrench inside the BAS(end of bolt nut) the firing pin has to be in the shot/fired position, then the end bolt nut BAS can be undone, the baffle removed, the cocking pin moved to lower position, then the cocking pin and internal slotted cocking sleeve removed from inside of the bolt.
If you didn't disassemble it, is it possible you moved something out of position while the BAS was loosened or off the bolt? Just trying to think what could be out of sync causing any bind. Or is yours a non firing pin indicator type BAS?
Try googling a schematic of a 114 bolt and see if you can get an idea of what is out of position or if the BAS is torqued to tight or something.
Let's try this...to get and allen wrench inside the BAS(end of bolt nut) the firing pin has to be in the shot/fired position, then the end bolt nut BAS can be undone, the baffle removed, the cocking pin moved to lower position, then the cocking pin and internal slotted cocking sleeve removed from inside of the bolt.
If you didn't disassemble it, is it possible you moved something out of position while the BAS was loosened or off the bolt? Just trying to think what could be out of sync causing any bind. Or is yours a non firing pin indicator type BAS?
Try googling a schematic of a 114 bolt and see if you can get an idea of what is out of position or if the BAS is torqued to tight or something.
Your best bet is to take it apart and clean out all the surfaces. Have a close look at the cocking pin where it rides on the bolt body for any burrs or grit. A good cleaning may help. If the bolt runs smooth when fully cocked then the issue resides with the opening of the bolt after being fired. if this is so, then the areas to look for grit, friction, etc are these items
1: Cocking pin/bolt body junction
2: cocking piece (rides over the firing pin inside the bolt assembly (look for burrs and grit).
3: Bolt head pin where the firing pin passes through a small hole. If the pin is mis aligned then it causes friction with the firing pin.
4: Hex bolt. There is friction caused between the cocking piece and this bolt. And this is where the lift kits function to reduce friction and improve bolt lift. The stock item may have burrs or may be riding heavy. At the very least use some grease in this area to reduce friction.
Report back and see if these areas are showing signs of wear or function issues.
1: Cocking pin/bolt body junction
2: cocking piece (rides over the firing pin inside the bolt assembly (look for burrs and grit).
3: Bolt head pin where the firing pin passes through a small hole. If the pin is mis aligned then it causes friction with the firing pin.
4: Hex bolt. There is friction caused between the cocking piece and this bolt. And this is where the lift kits function to reduce friction and improve bolt lift. The stock item may have burrs or may be riding heavy. At the very least use some grease in this area to reduce friction.
Report back and see if these areas are showing signs of wear or function issues.
Any possibility the handle is on backwards?
Any chance the scope base mount screws are too long and contacting bolt?
When you dry fire is the bolt hard to lift/and #### the firing pin?
On the bolt, when you have the bolt out of the gun....is there any play/slop when the cocking pin forward of the rear baffle is cycled downward by hand? Or is it bound against the bottom of the ramp?
Any chance the scope base mount screws are too long and contacting bolt?
When you dry fire is the bolt hard to lift/and #### the firing pin?
On the bolt, when you have the bolt out of the gun....is there any play/slop when the cocking pin forward of the rear baffle is cycled downward by hand? Or is it bound against the bottom of the ramp?
Bolt Action Screw, the screw/nut that is rearward f the handle and hold everything together on the bolt. First thing you have to undo to take bolt apart. Likely has the firing pin indicator sticking thru it, where the allen wrench inserts to begin disassembly.
the rifle worked fine before I took the handle off, so it's not the scope base screws
yes when after it is dry fired it is very hard to lift the bolt, never had this problem until I took the handle off
the only way to take BAS off is leave the bolt in the action right? because I can only take it off with the firing pin not cocked
the bolt handle doesn't touch the baffle when it's being raised, my model 11 is the same
the bolt handle can only go on one way, kind of dummy proof, until I played with it
yes when after it is dry fired it is very hard to lift the bolt, never had this problem until I took the handle off
the only way to take BAS off is leave the bolt in the action right? because I can only take it off with the firing pin not cocked
the bolt handle doesn't touch the baffle when it's being raised, my model 11 is the same
the bolt handle can only go on one way, kind of dummy proof, until I played with it
Two ways to remove the hex bolt.
1. remove the BAS in the rifle in the fired position. risk is you could mark the stock when the bolt lets loose.
2, by removing the bolt from the rifle, let the firing pin down by pushing on the cocking pin(use hard edge table or such). With the firing pin down lay the bolt on the floor, and remove hex nut.( Easier with no risk to damaging the stock. Some times these are real buggers to get loose.
As you have stated that you have removed the bolt handle so the nut should come off using option 1 really easy now.
Look at the bolt head for any marring which could indicate the forward action screw is in contact. Likewise, the rear action screw should not contact the bolt, but you will see some marring if it does.
As stated elsewhere, if there is some contact issues within the bolt assembly you could get a difficult bolt lift issue. I'll bet your problem lies in the first inch or so from the BAS forward.
1. remove the BAS in the rifle in the fired position. risk is you could mark the stock when the bolt lets loose.
2, by removing the bolt from the rifle, let the firing pin down by pushing on the cocking pin(use hard edge table or such). With the firing pin down lay the bolt on the floor, and remove hex nut.( Easier with no risk to damaging the stock. Some times these are real buggers to get loose.
As you have stated that you have removed the bolt handle so the nut should come off using option 1 really easy now.
Look at the bolt head for any marring which could indicate the forward action screw is in contact. Likewise, the rear action screw should not contact the bolt, but you will see some marring if it does.
As stated elsewhere, if there is some contact issues within the bolt assembly you could get a difficult bolt lift issue. I'll bet your problem lies in the first inch or so from the BAS forward.
there is no marring on the bolt anywhere, the only spot is where the little ball in the rear baffle rubbed against the bolt, I can see the ends of the action screws inside the action , they would have to go another 1/16 before they would touch the bolt, I just working the bolt with out the firing pinto bad they were all that smooth
Good, one item down. Now look at the cocking piece (the hollow notched tube) which sets into the firing pin. Make sure the cocking pin does not rub against this piece when you put them together. You can adjust the tension screw on the firing pin to align everything up. The back of the cocking piece is the problem area. It rubs directly onto the BAS. so you need to polish or lube this area well (white lithium grease works well).
Be careful not to loose that bolt head pin when working the bolt without the firing pin installed.....it is a bugger to remove if it gets stuck in the action.
One thing down....others to go....
Unlikely you could have bent the bolt body. This is one strong piece of metal.
Be careful not to loose that bolt head pin when working the bolt without the firing pin installed.....it is a bugger to remove if it gets stuck in the action.
One thing down....others to go....
Unlikely you could have bent the bolt body. This is one strong piece of metal.
