Savage M10 Bas-k

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Sgt Haze

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this might be in the wrong area if so a mod can move it to the right area.

just wondering if anyone here owns or shot the Savage M10 Bas-k. i'm looking to pick one up in the next week or 2 and would like some other opinions before ditching out the cash.

any info is appreciated

Luke
 
I've owned a Savage M10 BA for about a year and a half now.

I saw one at the Toronto Sportman show in 2010, then I got to shoot one a one of Savage's open house range days a few months later.
I thought it looked pretty cool, shot very well, had very little recoil, so I ordered one!
They told me that a long action M110 BA was going to be released, but I figured that .308 would be less expensive to shoot when compared to .300WM or .338LM. Plus this was my first real long range gun.

I don't hunt and only shoot paper, so the size and weight of the gun was no real concern. The gun is very tame to shoot, inexpensive to feed, is very accurate with match, or reload ammo, plus it's a neat gun to take to the range and shoot. As I mentioned above, recoil is very, very tame, mainly due to the weight of the gun and the muzzle brake.

Once you get used to the AccuTrigger, it's a really nice trigger that can be safely set at a light pull. You have to pull the straight back on the Accutrigger release within the trigger first, then continue straight back, once you just feel the main trigger, it releases beautifully. If you come back at a slight angle and touch the trigger before fully depressing the safety release, the trigger will release to 'half cocked' position and not fire.

This spring Savage had the M110 BA in .338LM at the show, and it got me thinking about selling my .308 BA and moving up to a long action, so I could try my hand at longer range shooting.

Last summer and this summer I have been shooting at 500 and 800 yards. At 500 yds it's deadly, cross winds and bullet drop are easy to compensate for. I find that at 800 yds with a fairly strong cross wind, that poor little 150 gr HPBT gets pushed around a lot. I've tried 180's but they drop a fair bit and the wind still moves them around.
So, I figured if I moved to the .300WM, and especially the .338LM, I could go to 1000 yds (and beyond if I can find a place!) even with some winds.

So this fall I decided that over the winter I was going to sell my M10 BA, buy a M110 BA in .338LM, and get set up to reload and be ready for spring.

However, about 3-4 weeks ago a friend of mine came over with his new Savage 110 FCP HS in .338LM, we went to the range and I had a chance to shoot the better part of a box of ammo out of it. I was very impressed with the 110 FCP HS, it was very accurate, recoil was not much more than my M10 BA, which really surprised me, as the FCP HS is a few pounds lighter than the BA. I think this is just the characteristics of the cartridge and the larger muzzle brake, plus the gun with scope is still around 14-15 lbs!

So, I've decided that I'm keeping my BA, as it is a cool gun to own/shoot, and I've ordered up myself a new Savage 110 FCP HS in .338LM.

The FCP HS is available in .308, .300WM, and .338LM, they seem to sell for around $1350 - $1400.00, so they cost a fair bit less than a BA, so another long range option to look at for someone entering longer range shooting.

IMO, if you like that looks of the BA, go for it.
If you want to keep shooting costs down, get it in .308.
If you want to reach out further and still use reasonable priced ammo, go for the .300WM.
To shoot .338LM you have to be making good $$$$ to shoot it, or re-load!

Good luck with the new 'toy'!!!
 
I have the mod 10 BAS/T heavy.with that said it is a tack driver have only shot it at 100 yards but you can cover 5 shots with a loonie ok maybe toonie.might have pulled it a bit.No recoil to speak off but I am told it is loud.but I was wearing good ear plugs.I haven't tryed any reloads just the fed AE 150s and some cheap rem 150 core locks.Never had any trouble with the trigger it is great.Now only problem I have is with the rail It dosn't seem to be centered I have had to use burris rings with the +-inserts to get it on the paper.It was off to the right at least 8 inches and up about the same this is bore sighting at 20 yards with a laser.other then that great fun and like I said a tack driver.
 
I own two of these rifles and have had great luck with them. Both in 308 and both very accurate with little recoil, extreamly fun and cheep to shoot. Best accuracy from a factory rifle i have ever had. So far my best group is 5 shot 0.780" at 300 yrd with 205gr chachinga bullets in Lapua brass, CCI BR-2 primer and 38gr IMR 4064. I do not like the accutriger and had troubles with it on both rifles (gun would not fire 50% of the time no matter how lightly you closed the bolt or how you pulled the trigger) I replaced them with a $200 aftermarked rifle basix trigger and it was a great investment!!!
 
Sgt Haze said:
great post blackacres thanks alot for the info. now you have me thinking of a .300wm :p
Click to expand...

I've got a 110BA in 300WM. So far its been a blast to shoot.

For a bi-pod I use a Versa-Pod. Get one that has the cant friction adjustment, its a must.

The bipod in your link looks goofy and is over priced. In my opinion.
 
^^^ A Versa Pod is a good option.

The BA 10 comes with a small aluminum block at the front of the fore end, which has a sling swivel and countersunk bolt both retaining the small block.

Which looks like this.

Savage10BAForendUndersideFromFactory.jpg
[/IMG]

The CC&G bipod you are considering is a good unit, I own the light weight version of the CC&G bipod. However, the bipod you are considering is a rail mounted unit, which would mean you have to use a sling swivel adapter, as the 10 BA comes with only a sling swivel on the underside of the fore end. So you have to either consider a Versa Pod, or a Harris bipod that clamps onto the sling swivel.

When I purchased my BA 10 it came with a Harris (or Harris clone) bipod, which was mounted using a small sling swivel to rail adapter. The adapter clamps onto the sling swivel. I am not a fan of a bipod that attaches to the sling swivel, especially on a heavy gun. I figure a couple of hard bumps/hits and something will bend/break!

Here is the setup that my gun came with (my gun was previously a Savage owned demo gun used at shows!):

P4150978.jpg
[/IMG]

When I looked at the bipod I noticed that the adapter provided a short rail and the bipod was accutally a rail mount style.

Photo of bipod:

HarrisBipodthatcamewith10BAisarailmountbipod.jpg
[/IMG]

As I own a couple of AR's and I already had a CC & G bipod (lighter one than OP posted) and an Atlas for them, I figured I'd use the adapter that came with the gun and mount my Atlas as it is a really nice bipod.

However, the rail on the adapter was too short to accept either. So I got 'creative' and mounted a short Ergo rail using the two holes in the fore end, like this:

2inRailsectionmountedtoforendusingexistingholes.jpg
[/IMG]

Now I can mount any of my bipods to the rail.

Atlas:

AtlasBipodmountedtoraildeployed.jpg
[/IMG]

CC&G:

GGGBipodmountedtoraildeployed.jpg
[/IMG]

Even the Harris (or clone):

HarrisBipodmountedtorailclosed.jpg
[/IMG]

I can not understand why Savage mounted the small block of aluminum and sling swivel at the front of the stock. The 10 BA is a heavy gun and I can't see many people carrying this gun using a sling, plus there are two other sling swivels on either side of the fore end if one wanted to 'slug' this gun! So I sent Savage photos of what I did. They said they liked the idea and they may add the short rail on BA's in the future!

If you want a real nice bipod, and have a fair bit of surplus $$$$, you should consider the Atlas, it's a very well built bipod.

Also, someone posted above that their scope was not aligned with the bore. On two occasions, after knowing my gun was zero'd, I noticed my point of aim was drifting. I checked the scope and rings and all was tight, but then I noticed that the large factory rail was loose! I tightened the four screws and a few months later I noticed they had come loose again! I think the large rail requries more than 4 small screws to retain it. Lock Tite may work, but I don't care to use it on my guns. You may want to check your rail mount screws.
After the rail screws worked loose two times, and not really fan of the useless large rail, I recently replaced it with a Warne 20 MOA one piece standard rail.

Hope you enjoy your new 'toy'!
 
Versa pod is the worst bipod i have ever used!!!!!! They are sloppy no matter how much you try to tighten them up even with pliers. They always move and you can never be consistant. I have a sinclair F-class bipod and its amazing, i also have the sinclair tactical bipod and it is the second best bipod i have ever used next to there f-class bipod. Both of there are 200 bux and sinclair is great at shiipping to canada, fast and cheep.
 
dirteemax said:
Versa pod is the worst bipod i have ever used!!!!!! They are sloppy no matter how much you try to tighten them up even with pliers. They always move and you can never be consistant. I have a sinclair F-class bipod and its amazing, i also have the sinclair tactical bipod and it is the second best bipod i have ever used next to there f-class bipod. Both of there are 200 bux and sinclair is great at shiipping to canada, fast and cheep.
Click to expand...

Send your versapod back for a replacement. Mine is solid. I don't have to over tighten the adjustments for it to be solid.
 
There all bad. tighten it up all day long you can still get the legs to move forwards and backwards a good inch. Every one of them is the same. I know 5 people with them and they all suck. A $60 dollar rip off of the harris bipod is twice as solid as $150 versa pod
 
dirteemax said:
There all bad. tighten it up all day long you can still get the legs to move forwards and backwards a good inch. Every one of them is the same. I know 5 people with them and they all suck. A $60 dollar rip off of the harris bipod is twice as solid as $150 versa pod
Click to expand...

Your worried about the forward and backward movement? Push into the rifle.

Now I understand why you say they are junk. That really shouldn't be an issue.
 
K0na_stinky said:
Your worried about the forward and backward movement? Push into the rifle.

Now I understand why you say they are junk. That really shouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...

I don't want to have to push into my rifle, then i will have to try and push with the exact same force every time and that just puts another variable into the equation. Adding more variables is not the goal. I don't have to push into my sinclair it is solid, no movement of the legs. if you push or pull the rifle will not move at all unless the feet slid. the versapod you can move the rifle back and forth an inch or more before the feet have to slid The harris has a little movement but way less then the versapod. The Atlas is also much better. I think if you wer top try one of these much higher quality bipods you would soon realize that the versa pod is not the answer if you want any consistency or accuracy.
 
I don't think I could live with a bipod that moved back and forth an inch, even a little movement would bother me!!!

My Atlas, CC&G and Harris have no movement in them at all!

I like the Atlas that much, when I have a few spare $$$$ I'm picking up another for my new rifle that should arrive in a week or so.
 
I liked the sinclair so much I bought three of them. $200 a pc american. Two are the F-class and one is the tactical. If you like the Atlas you will like the sinclair tactical. Check out the bipod that XLR tacitcal stocks sells. I don't know the name of it but it looks great!! i ordered one i think it was $400 or $500
 
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