Savage MKIIF insane accuracy!

I bought my Mark IIFSS during the boxing day in Qc City for 250$ tax included.

I'll never get rid of that gun. It performs flawlessly with any kind of bullets you feed it with and I always get very good groups.

I keep squirrels in check with that lil rifle! :sniper:

As for feeding, I've had a few times where the tip of the bullet was chipped by the chamber hole and those becomes stray bullets on my targets. After around 3000 bullets thought, this issue seems to be resolved. My bolt slides like a charm!
 
I get stuck cases all the time due to fouling. I normally have to clean the chamber area every 200-300 rounds. When I start to see a few stuck cases, I normally don't get more than 50 rds. down the tube before total failure to extract.
 
I've never fired a .22 long enough to get it hot-so would like an informed opinion on why a heavy barrel theoretically shoots better than a regular barrel.I also would like to know what the advantage is of having a .22 barrel longer than 16''[which is the length it takes to burn the powder-and after 16'' the velocity actually decreases]I can understand the longer barrel providing a longer sight plane for open sights, but for a scope it's not a factor.
Again,Marlin discontinued their 7000 heavy barrel model, presumably because the 795 and 60 shot just as well with a regular barrel
 
Spenom

where did you get them bolts to hold the cheak rest onto the stock? I have an old pellet gun i am thinking of chopping up and fitting to my stevens something like you have done
 
2bad4u2 said:
I get stuck cases all the time due to fouling. I normally have to clean the chamber area every 200-300 rounds. When I start to see a few stuck cases, I normally don't get more than 50 rds. down the tube before total failure to extract.
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I would suggest you don't have a chamber problem but rather a extractor spring problem. I bit if you change the springs or at least clean underneath them you will find your rifle will operate more reliably.

Scott
 
m39a2 said:
I would suggest you don't have a chamber problem but rather a extractor spring problem. I bit if you change the springs or at least clean underneath them you will find your rifle will operate more reliably.

Scott
Click to expand...

Could very well be the case (pardon the pun)...;) However, I would think the problem would occur on a frequent basis if it were a situation similar to what you describe. Once the chamber is relatively clean, the extraction problem goes away but re-appears shortly thereafter, usually 200-300 rds. later.
 
Savage Mk II SS Heavy Barrel

I have a new heavy barrel Savage SS Mk II with a laminate thumbhole stock and Accutrigger. I haven’t put a round through it yet. Its scoped and a bipod attached so it will have to go to the range in the coming weeks. I didn’t think it would be much of a shooter until I came across this thread.
 
ratherbefishin said:
I've never fired a .22 long enough to get it hot-so would like an informed opinion on why a heavy barrel theoretically shoots better than a regular barrel.I also would like to know what the advantage is of having a .22 barrel longer than 16''[which is the length it takes to burn the powder-and after 16'' the velocity actually decreases]I can understand the longer barrel providing a longer sight plane for open sights, but for a scope it's not a factor.
Again,Marlin discontinued their 7000 heavy barrel model, presumably because the 795 and 60 shot just as well with a regular barrel
Click to expand...


I'm not an expert but I believe that I can answer both of your questions.

Heavy Barrel
When a bullet is fired from the barrel of a gun, the barrel vibrates due to the impact of the bullet passing down the bore. Assuming that your barrel is free floated and is only supported by the reciever then this vibration is in three dimensions of translation as well as well as one degree of rotation. A very complex situation ensues but we only need to be concerned with two of the translations; if you are looking at the end of the barrel then it is the up/down and left/right directions.

Let us imagine that we could see the exact spot that the barrel was pointed at on your target just before you pulled the trigger (think of a bore sighter laser spot) and that the gun was clamped in a vice so that it could not move. Now imagine that you had a slowmotion camera filming the spot as the bullet traveled down the barrel. You would see that the spot moves around on the target! The amount that the impact point moves is dependant on the diameter of the barrel of the gun and the stiffness of the steel used in its construction.

Assuming that two barrels are made of the same stiffness of steel then the thicker barrel will vibrate at a faster rate and the maximimum amplitude of the vibration is smaller due to the fact that it is longitudinally stiffer than the thinner barrel. Therefore, given the same ammunition (and I mean the absolutely identical, impossible to get kind), the groups will be smaller from the thicker barrel. Making identical ammunition is the main reasion that handloaded centerfire ammunition is more accurate than factory loads.

!6" Barrel
I don't know where the fact (theory?) that all of the powder is burned in 16" of barrel but I would like to point out that the pressure in the barrel behind the bullet when the powder is completely burned is not zero. The pressure in the barrel rises from the time the primer is fired to some point in the barrel where the volume increase per unit time caused by the bullets motion is equalled by the volume increase caused by the burning powder. After this point, the pressure begins to drop but there still considerable pressure in the barrel as the bullet leaves the crown. Transitional ballistics is a study in and of itself. Therefore the bullet will continue to accelerate in the barrel AFTER the powder burns out.
 
thanks-and that makes sense about the vibration.

On the 16''barrel question-I read one of the studies they did starting out with a 28''barrel, and cut it back 1'' at a time and found the velocity INCREASED to where the barrel was cut back to 16''-and then decreased again the assumption being the after the powder burned in 16'',every inch after that actually slowed the bullet down due to increased contact with the barrel resulting in additional friction.

Also-theoretically wouldn't a shorter barrel be stiffer-resulting in less vibration?
 
I think you'd want the heavy barrel even more so, since you'll be shooting freestanding more often. and that's where the heavy barrel really helps to keep your point of aim steady.
I had a savage 93r17f .17hmr, base model with accutrigger and it was so friggin accurate i sold it because i found it quite boring hitting my mark every time. and expensive to shoot, not to mention banned from most rimfire competitions. but i shot a wasp off of a dandelion at 60 yds with that gun. savage does make some stupid accurate guns.
 
so-would you say the ideal .22 barrel would a heavy barrel of 16''?About the only diference I noted when I cut back my BRNO was it was a bit louder.
 
I am unsure of what the advantage would be to cut down your barrel. Besides the fact it would make your rimfire a prohib.

I belive that shorter barrels that are designed to be shorter would be more accurate than a barrel that was designed to be longer and then cut down.

I used to have a 20" .920 barrel on my 10/22, I put a 16" GM fluted barrel on this spring..... I have seen better groups, and a higher FPS (about 175fps over the 20") since I installed the 16" barrel.

Whether this is from the "better" manufacturing process of the 2 barral companies, or the length of the barrel, or the design (the old one didn't have flutes, the new one does) I have no concrete answers for you in that regard......

I BELIVE (for lack of a better word) That a shorter stiffer barrel (ie: a Green Mountain 16" Fluted barrel) is better than most 20" barrels regardless of manufature.

my $.02
Cheers!
 
well the fact you get an increase in velocity of 175fps by using a barrel 4'' shorter seems to bear out the theory that the powder is completely burned in 16'' and every inch after that only decreases the velocity due to increased friction.As far as the legalities are concerned-I believe you can cut down the barrel to 18'' yourself but for a 16'' barrel, it must come from the factory that way.But what the rationale for this 2'' diference is,I have no idea-it makes no sense to me
As far as any advantages in cutting the barrel, my BRNO seems to balance and carry nicer than the original longer barrel,nice and compact,and very nice to walk with
 
I shot my Mako in .22 cal yesterday at 25yards. This may sound ridiculous, but I have an easier time getting smaller groups with some of the cheaper ammo. At 25 yards, Winchester Dynapoints shoot extremely well. One group of 5 shots slightly larger than one bullet diameter. It seems the better the ammo I use, the harder I have to work to keep my groups small. What also is strange is many enthusiasts claim to stay away from the copper "washed" ammo for accuracy, but low and behold Dynapoints are just that. I couldn't consistently keep my groups as tight with SK standard, or Lapua standard club as I could with the bulk. Moving out to 50y may change things where I expect the cheaper ammo to open up, and the match ammo may stay fairly tight. Will have to experiment more.
 
With the price of the various .22LR ammo out there you can do a lot of test with different brand and weight, at a very low price and improve you general accuracy.

I've been wondering, I've been shooting my .22LR at 100m and I get about a 3-4 inch drop. Is it normal? :confused:
 
From 25 to 100 I get a 10 to 12" drop. So a 3to 4" drop would seem to be pretty good..... what ammo are you shooting?

I found CCI Blaser 40 gr Lead round nose (no hollow point) to give me the best groups out of both my MKII and my 10/22 (Green Mountain Barrel)

I prefer American Eagle 38gr Hollow points for hunting (gophers and wabbits) best accuracy in all the hunting ammo I have tried.

I have tried everything I have been able to get my hands on, Winchester: 333, Dynapoints, Dyna GT, Wildcats; Federal: Champion, Target; American Eagle: 38gr HP, 40gr Lead RN; Thunder bolts, CCI: Velociters, Stingers..... and a few others I can't remeber off the top of my head.

I have tried Eley Match ammo and Lapula Club, both group well but I find the same issuses as posted above..... I seem to have to work really hard to get good groups, whereas with the Blaser, good groups just seem to "happen".

All in all YMMV, you have to test various brands and types of ammo to find the one that works best for you.

Cheers!
 
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