Savage Model 12 VLP .233 & Sightron SIII 6-24x50 LR

T

Tikka223

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My project has come together!

When I was doing research on what to build I found myself hard pressed to come across some decent reviews so I will try to keep a bit of a log on how everything turns out.

Here is what I am working with:

Savage Model 12 VLP in .233 with 1-7 twist.
Burris Signature ZEE rings.
Weaver bases.
Sightron SIII SS 6-24x50 LR MD.

I haven't had the chance to sight it in yet due to rain. Hopefully tomorrow!

So far I'm impressed with the Savage (thank you Ellwood Epps) the finish on the laminate stock is quite nice, the cuts in the wood are clean, the steel has a nice finish and the detachable box mag is metal, unlike my Tikka. Bolt throw I find to be fairly smooth and the oversized bolt knob is nice but unfortunately is just doesn't compare with the Tikka's bolt.

I've dry-fired the rifle a few times with some A-Zoom snap caps. The accu-trigger is already set quite light and it is quite crisp. I'm new to the gun so I'm still getting that slight "surprise" when the trigger breaks. One thing I have noticed, and this could just be the dummy rounds, but the mag doesn't feed the last round very well. As well, if you try to feed you rounds through the port the bolt simply pushes them forward until the bullet just jams against flat face of the chamber / end of the barrel. Looks like it'll have to be fed via the mag unless you're careful enough to make sure that you rest the tip of the bullet inside the chamber when you close the bolt.

Another thing about the stock; the VLP stands for Varmit Low Profile which I assume means that the slope on the comb is designed for prone shooting. Not sure if I'm right on this but the stock seems to fit the job well. Even with the high rings to accommodate the 50mm scope my cheek rests comfortably but not snugly on the stock whether prone or with a bench. I think I may need to add about .5-1 cm of rise with some foam or something as I can move my head slightly and I can see that my point of aim changes.

As for the scope, I am fantastically impressed and I'll thank Mystic for his advice and services. I knew going from a Bushnell Legend 5-15 to the anything in the 1000$ would be a nice jump but the Sightron is great. If I max the zoom at 24x, use the side focus, and I can get a crystal clear view of objects that my 20/20 vision can't pick up. I've looked through some Swarovskis before and I'd say the Sightron is on par.

More to follow when I get it out to the range!
 
The pics are on my computer and ready to go but for some reason I'm not allowed to use attachments. I've sent a message to a moderator and hopefully it'll all get sorted out. The "manage attachments" button that I'm supposed to get when creating / editing Posts doesn't seem to exist.
 
You have to upload to photo bucket or similar photo hosting site. Then copy the correct link from your pic on photobucket and post it in your thread.
 
Pictures are up!

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd520/retep_hcal/IMG_2499.jpg
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd520/retep_hcal/IMG_2496.jpg
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd520/retep_hcal/IMG_2490.jpg
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd520/retep_hcal/IMG_2476.jpg

Hopefully this works and you can check out the pics. I hate to say it but this is all a little complicated to post a picture. There has to be a better way.

On topic, the Savage shot quite well and I suspect that as my skill increases my group sizes will decrease. It looks like the 1/7" twist did not like the Federal 55gr .233 FMG ammo too much and did much better with the Hornady 55gr .233 V-max. I didn't have enough time to shoot more groups as I had to sight in 2 other guns as well.

For the sight-in all I did was mount the Sightron, set it to "zero" using the target turrets and fired a round, which is the one low and to the left in the photo. I kept the rifle on target and then simply turned the turrets until the cross hairs were over the bullet hole. The next round was slightly high and to the left and the third was pretty close to zero. Next time I'm out I'll perfect it a little more with the Hornady ammo and will go for some 100m+ distances.

The Model 12 fed the ammo well and I had no problem getting the last round out of the mag. One bizarre problem that I encountered was that the accutrigger safety would jam in the "safe" position. If I lifted the bolt and locked it down again the safety would release. Weird.

Next time I go should I'll try it out with the front bag and see what my groups look like from there.

One question, when measuring groups, do you measure from the outer edge of the bullet hole or do you measure from the center of the bullet hole? All my groups were measured edge to edge.

Next step, shoot more.

Next step, shoot more and find more ammo. I think I'll order some Hornady match ammo from Le Baron.
 
Second try on the pics.

IMG_2476.jpg
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Very nice setup. I like it a lot as I am looking for a similar rig in 6mm BR. I am not familiar with cal 223 but you are definitely rigged for greater distance. Do you plan to keep your zero @ 100m or or push it out to 200?

Also curious to hear more on the "safety jam in the safe position". Did anyone else experience that?

Thanks for your post
 
With my other rifles I've always been very reluctant to play with the scope once zeroed. With the Savage / Sightron combo I don't think this will be an issue. I think what I'll do is simply take note of where the zero is on the target turrets and I'm betting that all I'll need to do is dial in the those settings and I'll be right back at the same zero. When I get out to a longer range one of my projects will be to write down the settings for zeros at 100m, 200m, 300m etc. Should be fun.

As for the accutrigger problem, I'm not eager to start disassembling my rifle to investigate so if anyone else has heard of this or has suggestions I'm all ears.
 
Tikka223 said:
One question, when measuring groups, do you measure from the outer edge of the bullet hole or do you measure from the center of the bullet hole? All my groups were measured edge to edge..
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Group sizes should be centre to centre.

One way to measure this is to measure centre to centre. Usually this is a bit awkward though and involves eyeballing where the centre of two different holes are.

Another way to get the same measurement is to measure outside-to-outside, then subtract the bullet diameter. This is a more accurate method (it's easier to put the calipers on the shothole edges), but it involves math.

My favourite method is to measure between the inside edge of one shot to the outside edge of the other shot. Then the measurement on your calipers is exactly your centre-to-centre distance (think this over a bit...).

Tikka223 said:
With my other rifles I've always been very reluctant to play with the scope once zeroed. With the Savage / Sightron combo I don't think this will be an issue. I think what I'll do is simply take note of where the zero is on the target turrets and I'm betting that all I'll need to do is dial in the those settings and I'll be right back at the same zero. When I get out to a longer range one of my projects will be to write down the settings for zeros at 100m, 200m, 300m etc. Should be fun..
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Do take regular notes. I have a small notebook for each rifle, and every time I shoot I will write the distance I was at, the ammo I used, and the elevation and windage settings on the sights. That way it is very easy to get on target on my first shot the next time I shoot at that distance. It's also a good way to keep track of the number of rounds through your barrel.

With a target scope, the knobs are meant to be turned and used. They are straightforward to read, and I could turn the knobs two or three turns without you looking and you would be able to exactly return the scope to its correct setting using your notebook.

As for the accutrigger problem, I'm not eager to start disassembling my rifle to investigate so if anyone else has heard of this or has suggestions I'm all ears.
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Accutriggers do have a few quirks. If it is still doing it and you haven't figured it out by the time we meet on the range in September we can have a good look at it. I wouldn't worry too much about it for now.
 
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I have the same Savage in 1/7" and a Bushnel 3200 (old) target scope. I have no issues with the safety. The rifle shoots so much better with 77 gr or 80 gr SMK, you have to try some of them to really see what the rifle can do.

Great rifle, enjoy it.
 
I've already got a little black book on the go. I hoping to keep track of the good and bad habits. Nice to know about the center to center group measurements, means my target was a little better than I thought. Won't be using the Federal ammo again. On that particular target I was judging picking out points of aim on the grid and firing groups. Next time I'm out I'll be more specific and I'll make sure the target is level. Already looking forward to getting out to shoot with someone who knows what they're doing - thanks Daniel
 
rnbra-shooter said:
FWIW this will have no effect on the rifle's accuracy nor on its point of impact.

The only need to mount a scope vertically is that it can look a bit silly if it is noticeably crooked.[/QUOTE

Definitely should be plumbed. If it isn't square to your action at distances other than zero it will be off to one side when holding over on mildots or clicking turrets. On my airgun field target rifle, I have a level mounted on the action just to make sure that
The rifle is in the same orientation for each shot. Level your action on a rest, then turn your scope in the rings so the vertical hair lines up with a weighted string you hang at around 20 yards. I promise this will help at long distance.
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