Savage Model B Fox 12 Gauge SxS

Da Moose

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GunNutz
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Location
Calgary
I'm refinishing an old Savage Model B Fox 12 Gauge SxS and doing some minor repairs for a friend and after removing the forend, can't (and several friends are buffaloed too) remove the barrel end from the stock end of the shotgun.

Savage doesn't have a manual in their system.

Can any of you gentlemen tell me what to do?

I have photos of the mechanism but don't know how to post them on CGN but could send them direct to your personal e-mail if that would help solve the problem.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Did you remove just the wood part of the fore-end or the fore-end and fore-end iron as well? If you removed just the wood then the barrels are still locked to the action.
 
Did you remove just the wood part of the fore-end or the fore-end and fore-end iron as well? If you removed just the wood then the barrels are still locked to the action.

Yes. With that model, the forend simply snaps off - no need for tools. If you took the screw out, you separated the wood from the fore-end iron.
 
Fox Model B 12 Gauge

Thank you very much Gentlemen,

Life got in the way a bit and it took me a while to get at it but the shotgun has been repaired, thoroughly cleaned and re-finished. I wish I'd taken "before" photos because the forend had been held on with duct tape for many years after the screw was lost that held the wood to the metalwork, which was stripped. The woodwork was badly scratched and had paint spatters on it. The gun probably hadn't been cleaned in 40 years.

In removing the duct tape, there was nothing to hold the forend together and making it impossible to remove the barrel from the receiver. I was afraid to force anything until I received your advice. A coarse self-tapping screw held the forend together long enough to separate the barrel from the receiver so that I was able to work on the forend. I was able to re-tap the stripped hole and use a screw that fit properly and held the forend together correctly.

The rest was a matter of cleaning up the woodwork and metal work. I just have to replace the old recoil pad, which has turned to rock. I'll put the "after" photographs on a photoshare link and post it in a separate message.

Again gentlemen,
Thank you very much,
Dave in Calgary
 
Good Stuff!! It sounds like perhaps the original owner took the screw out thinking that this was necessary to disassemble the gun for cleaning. Then, apparently he lost track of the screw.

Judging only from the paint splatter and the duct tape, I'd say the Fox B has weathered a difficult period and is now in the hands of someone capable of properly caring for it.

My experience with my Fox B has, at times, been frustrating. The gun is nothing, if not an enigma.

On the plus side, the barrels are as well regulated as any I've seen. The fixed chokes (F/M on mine) throw excellent patterns. The wood and metal finishes either lead a charmed life, or they're somehow more durable than most. I seldom miss anything I shoot at with this gun. Also, I don't protect it or baby it in any way, yet it never picks up any of the tiny nicks and small scratches that eventually age the finish.

The internal design of the receiver is it's Achilles' heel. For example, there's a drift pin that sits horizontally across the bottom of the receiver (Part #27, I believe, in the blowup diagram provided by planemaker). This pin isn't knurled, spurred, or chamfered in any way. It appears the designer expected friction and inertia to be sufficient to keep it in place. If/when the pin migrates out of it's channel, it obstructs and prevents the sears from lifting. Needless to say, this can (did) cause much frustration when it occurs while a veritable flock of sharptail are coming up all around you.

It's not obvious from the diagram, but part #13 is inverted when installed. It's the screw that holds the top lever in place. Another design brain fart. I'd love to give the designer my opinion of the brilliance displayed by having a threaded screw, with no means of securing it in place, inserted upside down into a part that is moved back and forth constantly. It's only a matter of time before the stupid thing works loose and another shot is lost because a screw is obstructing the hammer!!

Before I leave you with the impression that this is a horrible gun, I should admit that there are much worse. I suppose proof of this lies in the fact that I still have mine. Lock-tite is probably all that is needed to make one trouble-free for decades.

No matter how you look at it, it's an excellent choice for a project gun. I'm looking forward to your pictures and stories as you restore and enjoy this gun.
 
After Photographs

Here's the link to photographs of the finished project. There was a Limbsaver slip-on recoil pad that fit perfectly. A screw-on pad might have been nicer but I don't have a proper belt sander.

Thanks again the the gunnutz that provided advice.

http://photoshare.shaw.ca/view/3097579464-1306367741-40980/
 
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