Savage Rascal

Thanks for the info guys. After researching the youth models I really dislike the idea of loading a round and then manually cocking the action. I had read a few complaints about the light strikes, but now I have no worries. The order has been placed.


Not really sure if optics will be required for the new shooter, but I think a red dot might be the best option for ease of use. I'll see how it goes using the peep and go from there.

My son prefers using the rifle with his red dot, I added a Bushnell TR25 and it suits the gun quite well.

 
Thanks for the info guys. After researching the youth models I really dislike the idea of loading a round and then manually cocking the action. I had read a few complaints about the light strikes, but now I have no worries. The order has been placed.


Not really sure if optics will be required for the new shooter, but I think a red dot might be the best option for ease of use. I'll see how it goes using the peep and go from there.

There's is a $30 US dollar mail in rebate on thses right now don't miss out!
 
My daughter has one and loves it. EGW makes a great rail for it that even has a dovetail on back so you can put proper Williams target sights on it. The front sight is a standard dovetail so it's not a lot of trouble to swap it out for a good Lyman.

If you don't keep the bolt clean, light strikes can be a real pain, but I've found that keeping that firing pin channel and the bolt face clean does the trick.

I looked at the cricket but that extra step of having to pull the bolt back is a pain and also once you do -> THERE IS NO SAFE WAY TO UNLOAD IT WITHOUT SHOOTING IT that was a HUGE negative for the cricket when it's going to be used by a kid.

Also, the cricket doesn't have a feed ramp, you have to actually put the round into the chamber. The Rascal has a ramp, you just have to pop the round in and close the bolt, no need to guide it into the chamber (makes a big difference in winter with gloves on)
 
My daughter has one and loves it. EGW makes a great rail for it that even has a dovetail on back so you can put proper Williams target sights on it. The front sight is a standard dovetail so it's not a lot of trouble to swap it out for a good Lyman.

If you don't keep the bolt clean, light strikes can be a real pain, but I've found that keeping that firing pin channel and the bolt face clean does the trick.

I looked at the cricket but that extra step of having to pull the bolt back is a pain and also once you do -> THERE IS NO SAFE WAY TO UNLOAD IT WITHOUT SHOOTING IT that was a HUGE negative for the cricket when it's going to be used by a kid.

Also, the cricket doesn't have a feed ramp, you have to actually put the round into the chamber. The Rascal has a ramp, you just have to pop the round in and close the bolt, no need to guide it into the chamber (makes a big difference in winter with gloves on)
You can't de-#### by guiding striker home,ala Cooey? Never touched a cricket, just going off how the action works.
 
Very good friend of mine has a rascal. A lot of nice features packed into the small rifle. I think the "hunting gear guy" has a review on it but I don't have a link handy... I have the predecessor, the Stevens cadet. Always been pleased with it. It's the 22 I use most.
 
Buy one I don"t think you will be disappointed. My 9 year old daughter will sit for hours happy as a clam, one in, one out, she just shoots hers with the peep sight. Really a great training
tool, safety, marksmanship......
 
Thanks for the info guys. After researching the youth models I really dislike the idea of loading a round and then manually cocking the action...

One of the big advantages of the Savage Rascal (over the Chipmunk/Crickett/Mini-Bolt) is that the Rascal's manual-of-arms is exactly the same as most other bolt action rifles. A shooter who learns to be safe with a Rascal won't have to un-learn (or re-learn) anything before graduating to another, larger, bolt-action rifle.

 
Do have light strike problems, trying to remediate it now... Guess one in so many rifles happens to have this problem, and when it does, it is indeed nastily annoying!

Other than that - great little rifle! Rather than scoping, recommend to upgrade front sight to globe and back to some better peep, but keep it iron - keeps item same small and light, the way it is designed. Lifehack for backpackers: only two easy screws keep action (and free-floating barrel) on the stock so Rascal can easily be your super-light takedown backpacking rifle! Lifehack 2: unscrew the rear sling hanger, and open recoil pad - you'll get "secret" compartment for small things.
 
Gun arrived today and I literally laughed out loud after opening the box. Man, this thing is tiny and I think the box it came packaged in weighs more than the gun itself.

I haven't used a peep sight before so I'll be taking my first shots using them this weekend sometime to see how the gun shoots and decide whether to buy a red dot for it or not. Really looking forward to trying it out, but I am having doubts about getting consistent groups with such a large rear peep. Seems a hole about half the size would be better?
 
Don't worry about the peep sight. A lot of people get a little freaked out about it. Concentrate on the front sight and select the point of aim. When you release the shot, the front sight should be in perfect focus, just like a leaf sight or a scope for that matter. Your eye will naturally find the center of the rear sight. If you are looking at the aperture, you will pooch the shot.
 
I just received one yesterday that i'll give to my kids this spring. Has anyone fully disassembled the bolt?

Is it necessary to disassemble and remove the guide and hammer pin like on a 93R or Mark II, or do you just remove the extractor and firing pin?

I've read a lot about the need to remove the packaging grease and I have experience with that same grease becoming caked on the bolt internals of my 93R17 that I bought second hand. I ended up tearing it apart and giving it a nice polish. Wondering if I can or should do the same with the Rascal? I see it's all roll pins on the bolt, but the schematics in the manual only show the removal of the extractor and firing pins. I'd prefer to fully disassemble before bathing it in my ultrasonic tank.
 
I got my daughter a Rascal last year for her 9th b-day,
She was using my Mark2 prior to the rascal , after doing research and checking every smaller 22 I opted for the Rascal because it is really a smaller version of my savage Mark2, and off to the range we went, after adjusting the peep sight she was hitting the bull's eye at 50 yards shot after shot ,, the smile on her face getting bigger with every shot.
She love's it.
Now after a little over 500 rounds, I can say the Rascal still performs great, not 1 single issue, every round fires has expected. this is the best little rifle for a kid.

I have not for 1 seconds regretted or had any doubts about the rifle.
 
I just received one yesterday that i'll give to my kids this spring. Has anyone fully disassembled the bolt?

Is it necessary to disassemble and remove the guide and hammer pin like on a 93R or Mark II, or do you just remove the extractor and firing pin?

I've read a lot about the need to remove the packaging grease and I have experience with that same grease becoming caked on the bolt internals of my 93R17 that I bought second hand. I ended up tearing it apart and giving it a nice polish. Wondering if I can or should do the same with the Rascal? I see it's all roll pins on the bolt, but the schematics in the manual only show the removal of the extractor and firing pins. I'd prefer to fully disassemble before bathing it in my ultrasonic tank.

Never had the need/desire to take the bolt apart on ours, and it's seen plenty of action. Keep it lubed/clean, wipe-off any excess oil, keep the bolt face/extr. clean & clear~works great.
 
The Savage bolts used in my club's Jr .22 program did build up some muck under the extractor after many, many thousands of rounds. I took the bolts home a few at a time over a month and knocked the pins out, cleaned the recesses and put the pins back in. Soaking and aerosol blasting didn't do the job as the stuff was packed in and hard as tough plastic. But other than that there's nothing in the bolts that could not be easily serviced by simply dunking in a cleaning and lubricating mixture of solvent and oil such as Ed's Red and then draining and blowing out the excess... which was the other thing I did while I had them. A few of them drained out quite darkly the first couple of times so they had built up some dusty grunge and semi dried oil over the years.
 
Back
Top Bottom