Savage rifles a new found interest

Boomer said:
It depends what you want use your Savage rifle for. As a target rifle, varmint rifle, or as a big game hunting rifle that is used for day trips, they run from okay to very good. But for extended wilderness trips, for dangerous game hunting, or for protection work, they aren't even on my radar. The bolt design is over thought, and the firing pin passing through the floating pin which holds on the bolt head is IMHO a failure waiting to happen. The Accutrigger has no place in the big game arena, but while a trigger can be swapped out, the bolt is pretty much what you have. Although the concept of a replaceable bolt head has some attraction, particularly if you wanted to build a switch barrel rifle, there are better ways to accomplish it. The Savage 99 was an excellent big game rifle, the bolt guns, not so much[/QUOT

is it common practice for you to beat on your bolts with a hammer for entertainment? if so I could see how the 1/16 hardened steel firing pin might break.
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tylerjwitty said:
Boomer said:
It depends what you want use your Savage rifle for. As a target rifle, varmint rifle, or as a big game hunting rifle that is used for day trips, they run from okay to very good. But for extended wilderness trips, for dangerous game hunting, or for protection work, they aren't even on my radar. The bolt design is over thought, and the firing pin passing through the floating pin which holds on the bolt head is IMHO a failure waiting to happen. The Accutrigger has no place in the big game arena, but while a trigger can be swapped out, the bolt is pretty much what you have. Although the concept of a replaceable bolt head has some attraction, particularly if you wanted to build a switch barrel rifle, there are better ways to accomplish it. The Savage 99 was an excellent big game rifle, the bolt guns, not so much[/QUOT

is it common practice for you to beat on your bolts with a hammer for entertainment? if so I could see how the 1/16 hardened steel firing pin might break.
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Its not a matter of the firing pin breaking, and problems likely won't occur with casual use of the rifle. But over extended periods of time, where the rifle is frequently exposed to moisture, there is a potential for problems to occur. In wet weather, at times of high humidity, or in a marine environment, over time moisture causes rust to form in the hole through that cross-pin, and before long it creates friction with the firing pin, slowing it down, until finally it causes a misfire. But aha, the solution is easy, just a light coating of grease will solve that problem. And it will, at least until the rifle is used in sub-zero cold, at which time the grease will stiffen, slow the speed of the firing pin, and cause a misfire. If moisture causes rust to form along the length of the outside of the cross-pin, it might freeze in place in the bolt, resulting in friction with one side of the firing pin, slowing it down, causing a misfire.

Some will scoff and say that since the formation of rust where the firing pin protrudes through the bolt face never produces misfires, so how could a bit of rust through the cross-pin cause problems? The answer is twofold. First the diameter of the cross-pin is greater than the thickness of the bolt face, so there is more contact along the length of the firing pin, and secondly, where the firing pin passes through the cross-pin, the firing pin is larger in diameter than it is at the tip, where it passes through the bolt face, so there is more surface area to be affected by the presence of rust inside the cross-pin.

I take pretty good care of my guns, but moisture has got the better of me. Once when I checked the magazine of my 590, I realized that the steel follower had rusted to the walls of the tube magazine. A rub with a magazine brush, and a run through the ultrasonic cleaner resolved the issue, but problems can happen even when we think we have everything under control. Staying ahead of moisture problems requires vigilance, but in the course of a long duration wilderness adventure, how often would you strip a Savage bolt, and risk loosing small parts and springs, to ensure the rifle will fire the next morning? A Mauser bolt by contrast can be completely disassembled without tools, all of the parts are large enough that none should be lost, everything can be wiped dry, lubricated if needed, and put back together all within the space of a few minutes.
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Boomer said:
tylerjwitty said:
Its not a matter of the firing pin breaking, and problems likely won't occur with casual use of the rifle. But over extended periods of time, where the rifle is frequently exposed to moisture, there is a potential for problems to occur. In wet weather, at times of high humidity, or in a marine environment, over time moisture causes rust to form in the hole through that cross-pin, and before long it creates friction with the firing pin, slowing it down, until finally it causes a misfire. But aha, the solution is easy, just a light coating of grease will solve that problem. And it will, at least until the rifle is used in sub-zero cold, at which time the grease will stiffen, slow the speed of the firing pin, and cause a misfire. If moisture causes rust to form along the length of the outside of the cross-pin, it might freeze in place in the bolt, resulting in friction with one side of the firing pin, slowing it down, causing a misfire.

Some will scoff and say that since the formation of rust where the firing pin protrudes through the bolt face never produces misfires, so how could a bit of rust through the cross-pin cause problems? The answer is twofold. First the diameter of the cross-pin is greater than the thickness of the bolt face, so there is more contact along the length of the firing pin, and secondly, where the firing pin passes through the cross-pin, the firing pin is larger in diameter than it is at the tip, where it passes through the bolt face, so there is more surface area to be affected by the presence of rust inside the cross-pin.

I take pretty good care of my guns, but moisture has got the better of me. Once when I checked the magazine of my 590, I realized that the steel follower had rusted to the walls of the tube magazine. A rub with a magazine brush, and a run through the ultrasonic cleaner resolved the issue, but problems can happen even when we think we have everything under control. Staying ahead of moisture problems requires vigilance, but in the course of a long duration wilderness adventure, how often would you strip a Savage bolt, and risk loosing small parts and springs, to ensure the rifle will fire the next morning? A Mauser bolt by contrast can be completely disassembled without tools, all of the parts are large enough that none should be lost, everything can be wiped dry, lubricated if needed, and put back together all within the space of a few minutes.
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I understand what Boomer is talking about. Have to agree.....to some extent.
As far as long-term reliability when CLEANED and PAMPERED, I can only repeat what I stated above:
Approx. 10,000 rounds on the original bolt/firing pin, still well within specs.
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cet said:
I understand what Boomer is talking about. Have to agree.....to some extent.
As far as long-term reliability when CLEANED and PAMPERED, I can only repeat what I stated above:
Approx. 10,000 rounds on the original bolt/firing pin, still well within specs.
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After 100,000 rounds your Savage bolt will still be in spec. There is nothing unsafe about that action, and there is nothing about it's design that would make anyone think it wouldn't stand up to shooting as well as any other turn bolt action. But as a choice for an action that will see hard outdoor use, and be exposed to abuse that sometimes entails, the Savage bolt isn't the best choice, but neither am I impressed by the complexity of the Browning bolt, which would be extremely difficult to service in the field. Mauser had it figured out 116 years ago, and most improvements since that time have been a step backwards. But the low retail price of some Savage models, makes them attractive to some who would be better served by other options, "Its gonna get beat to hell anyway, might as well pick up an Axis."
 
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More interesting is WHY they are so accurate: ht tp://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183153

Factory tour: ht tp://www.gunblast.com/Savage_12VSS.htm

The self-aligning bolt head is the feature I hear mentioned most, at least around here.
 
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Probably the most accurate rifle out of the box i have ever owned
Yes some look like crap but if they put a berger bulllet where i aimed thats all i care about
 
saskcop said:
It's not a clip, it's a magazine ....
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clipp.jpg
 
I was never a Savage fan, but just had to give them a chance to see for myself. I purchased a FLHSS with accustock and trigger in 270. For the price I'm very impressed with it, very accurate for a hunting rifle to say the least. As far as the next hunting rig I get will most likely be another. I have no complaints at all.
 
I can afford any rifles that I desire. [DAMN LUCKY].
My last one that I bought was a Savage 30-06.
If I buy another it will be a Savage.
Very accurate.
I used to be a Remington 700 BDL fan
Not anymore, Remingtons quality control is the pits.
I love that accutrigger.
 
colombe said:
I can afford any rifles that I desire. [DAMN LUCKY].
My last one that I bought was a Savage 30-06.
If I buy another it will be a Savage.
Very accurate.
I used to be a Remington 700 BDL fan
Not anymore, Remingtons quality control is the pits.
I love that accutrigger.
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thats how I feel, i like euro guns but they ask alott, remingtons are hit and miss rugger's are pretty but not the most accurate. the last 2 winchesters I had didn't shoot all that well. My dads savage and friends savages I've seen shoot as good as tikkas, sakos, and others rate out of the box. and like i said my savage rimmfire shoots as good as CZ and anschutz rim fires i have. So I'm going to buy a savage full bore. not a fan of how they look but they shoot.
 
not a fan of fit and feel, but lots of aftermarket stuff out there

have a 17hmr, sold a 243 a couple years back, and have a model 16 fhss in 260 rem, they are all sub moa rifles

had issues with the mags, cheap plastic thing was hard to snap up in place, and if it wasn't fully locked the bolt wouldn't grab a round
 
Boomer said:
That would resolve the functional issues with the rifle, but it does add $300 to the price. Then you could pay an additional $200 to stabilize the stock, but you're rapidly approaching a lipstick on a pig analogy.
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I highly doubt it would cost 300 to coat a small cross bolt. maybe 20 bucks. not sure who your paying to stabilize your stocks but your getting ripped off. pay a bit more and drop it into a McMillian stock and I dare say you would have a pretty tough rifle
 
fraser2 said:
I have a Savage Model 10 FCP-K in .223. It's so accurate it's becoming boring to shoot. A great rifle!
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:agree: My Model 10 Precision Carbine in .223 is in the same boat. Nice, solid platform to work with & the
Accu-Stock assures stability without that hollow feel of lesser quality synthetic units. Say good night to
varmints & medium game with decent bullets for the job.:)

I've got a Savage MkII FV SR that shoots as good as any of the CZ .22's that I've owned & I've also had
the .17 HMR & .22 Magnum Savage rimfires as well. All shot sweet.

They may not be the sleekest lookin' rifles out there, but Savage makes a dang accurate gun fer the bucks.:)
 
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