say i buy a can of paint...

WhelanLad

WhelanLad

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ok fellas, Heres the scenario.

my rem 700, love it to death, but the finish of the SPS is shocking, unless you run the oil into them from new they will rust easily.

mines reasonable, stays right for long enough but has got a slight orange tinge.


what happens if I san the barrel down? will it just rush asap?

what if I grab a can of paint an spray over it? standard spray paint from the local aussie handy store? im thinkin of sprayin brown an green over it in a ghetto attempt to make it more 'bush', its very black.

will the barrel finish hold the paint enough ? unlike the T3 stainless barrel where it rubbed off easily.

thanks

wl
 
Degreased and sanded properly and I see no reason why the paint wouldn't stick.

Stainless is hard to paint due to what makes it stainless being a tiny layer of ceramic oxide on the surface.
 
I have an old cooey 22 that was missing most of the bluing when I got it, so I cleaned it up and threw some black spray paint on it. You do have to be careful not to get any nitro solevent on the paint as it will cause the paint to come off.
 
I use arma coat on mine ,very durable and comes in quite a few colors.Metal should be blasted first but could be sanded to.You might have a hard time getting it down there thow.
 
ShawnC6 said:
Degreased and sanded properly and I see no reason why the paint wouldn't stick.

Stainless is hard to paint due to what makes it stainless being a tiny layer of ceramic oxide on the surface.
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I don't think he is talking about the stainless version otherwise he wouldn't be worried about rust. The surface rusts quickly due to a lack of polish on the steel. The SPS rifles I have seen have pretty much a bead blasted finish which is a very rough and porous surface with lots of places for rust to get a toehold. You will notice on some high grade weapons with extremely smooth polished steel that rust is much less a problem even without liberal applications of oil. Personally I would look at one of the ceramic coatings available before paint as once it is done you have no worries whereas a painted surface will always be a problem.
 
Mike Webb said:
I don't think he is talking about the stainless version otherwise he wouldn't be worried about rust. The surface rusts quickly due to a lack of polish on the steel. The SPS rifles I have seen have pretty much a bead blasted finish which is a very rough and porous surface with lots of places for rust to get a toehold. You will notice on some high grade weapons with extremely smooth polished steel that rust is much less a problem even without liberal applications of oil. Personally I would look at one of the ceramic coatings available before paint as once it is done you have no worries whereas a painted surface will always be a problem.
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Not all stainless is stainless, 314 316 grade etc.
There are varying grades of ss and some will rust.
Run a magnet over a piece of known high grade ss and then run same magnet over a Browning SS barrel (just an example).
There are coatings available , but I have no experience as to how it will work out on your sps.
Rob
 
Before you go sanding a spray painting take the metal out of the stock and rub in a good coat of paste wax. Repeat yearly.

If that isn't good enough, spend the money and have a decent spray and bake finish applied (gunkote, Ceracoat etc)
 
I used Kyrlon on my SPS a few years ago and no rust. I just used alcohol to degrease before hand and that is it. Paint seems to be pretty durable, except to solvent which strips it instantly. Easy to touch up if you get solvent on it though. I don't use the rifle too much as it's my least favorite rifle, just keep it around for when my wife wants to go shooting and for yotes. I painted the stock as well, looks pretty good.
 
FLHTCUI said:
Not all stainless is stainless, 314 316 grade etc.
There are varying grades of ss and some will rust.
Run a magnet over a piece of known high grade ss and then run same magnet over a Browning SS barrel (just an example).
There are coatings available , but I have no experience as to how it will work out on your sps.
Rob
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I am aware of that. Generally speaking 300 series steels will not rust. Most gun stainless steels will be 400 series mostly called martensitic stainless meaning basically they can be hardened by heat treatment. The rusting problem the OP describes IS mainly due to the rough finish on the steel of his rifle.
 
If you use bug dope, expect the paint to come off on your hands. But touch-ups are cheap with a spray can of rust paint. I did a shotgun for a guy who didn't want to pay for GunKote, so I gave him a deal. I sandblasted the gun as I would have for GunKoteing, degreased it after sand blasting, heated it in the oven, shot it with a coat of primer, put it back in the oven, to cure the primer then shot it with flat black then shot it with flat black rust paint, and let it cook for an hour at 325 F. The thickness of regular paint is enough that you don't want to put it on critical surfaces. I don't know how well its stood up over time, but he hasn't brought it back, and northern guns as a rule don't have an easy life.
 
Mike Webb said:
I don't think he is talking about the stainless version otherwise he wouldn't be worried about rust. The surface rusts quickly due to a lack of polish on the steel. The SPS rifles I have seen have pretty much a bead blasted finish which is a very rough and porous surface with lots of places for rust to get a toehold. You will notice on some high grade weapons with extremely smooth polished steel that rust is much less a problem even without liberal applications of oil. Personally I would look at one of the ceramic coatings available before paint as once it is done you have no worries whereas a painted surface will always be a problem.
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I know I just mentioned it as he commented about it coming off of another stainless one he tried.
 
buzzmagoo said:
Do tell ,what's this Fulid Film? and where would one find it?original use? I have never heard of this product.
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have used Fluid Film ... occasionally still do ... but dont expect miracles.. and it is pricy ... best I can say about it is it doesnt seem to affect rubber, synthetics etc and makes stuff wet. Probably a lot better than WD40 .... which isnt saying much actually!
 
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