BATFE/DoS will not allow you to import or possess an NFA weapon stateside unless you are active LE on official duty. Buy whatever AR you want, then just get a second upper for US matches.Can someone fill me in on what the general situation is with this?
If I plan to attend a training event some time in the future should I avoid buying an AR with < 16 inch barrel length.
Can someone fill me in on what the general situation is with this?
If I plan to attend a training event some time in the future should I avoid buying an AR with < 16 inch barrel length.
Thanks.
Unlikely Canada, however, I believe the barrel length in the US includes any barrel attachments like flash hiders or muzzle breaks so an M4 barrel (14 1/2") with a standard FH would be good to go. Remember that Norinco firearms are a no-no for transport into the states just in case you were thinking about a Norinco AR.
And an A2 will NOT bring a 14.5" to 16.1" OAL.The muzzle device needs to be pinned and welded for it to be included in thr OAL in the US.
And an A2 will NOT bring a 14.5" to 16.1" OAL.
They have to be welded on to the barrel to work and not your average day welder has the skills or the tools to do this properly with out pouching the barrel but none the less can be done.Unlikely Canada, however, I believe the barrel length in the US includes any barrel attachments like flash hiders or muzzle breaks so an M4 barrel (14 1/2") with a standard FH would be good to go. Remember that Norinco firearms are a no-no for transport into the states just in case you were thinking about a Norinco AR.
This is completely false.They have to be welded on to the barrel to work and not your average day welder has the skills or the tools to do this properly with out pouching the barrel but none the less can be done.
P.S. Why do you think all thoughts Norinco M14's have welded flash hiders for? Cause the drill and pin method was easier and better than a spot weld???This is completely false.
You do not weld anything onto the barrel.
What you do is drill a small hole the diameter of a coat hanger through the flash hider and partially into the barrel.
Once the hole is drilled you drop a pin into the hole which will finish slightly below the surface of the flash hider.
You then weld over the hole containing the pin.
If you ever need to remove the flash hider you need to grind off the weld to remove the pin to unthread the flash hider.
This will cause considerable damage to the flash hider.
And what if he screws up welding by the crown?
So my statement was not completely false now was it? Also how easy is it to drill threw your muzzle device and into the meat of your barrel? Then to hammer in a pin and then weld that pin in so that the muzzle device never comes off again???
Like I stated not something I would want any old guy with a welder to do. Cause if you bugger up that crown or bulge the barrel when drilling well that will be one costly mistake.
Here is a picture proof of my statement being done and acceptable way to do it down there.
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P.S. Why do you think all thoughts Norinco M14's have welded flash hiders for? Cause the drill and pin method was easier and better than a spot weld???
And this is why I steer clear of the drill and weld method.
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You can have a seat now and thank-you for your very non-informative and dis-leading comments.
Who knows what could happen when a buba decides to attempt to drill a flash hider? He might even decided to drill it close to the crown or parallel to the barrel.What are you talking about? The crown is inside the flash hider! If you screw that up by welding a spot weld to cover your pin, stay FAR away from a welder! Heck, stay far away from firearms too!
or you just drop a small bead onto the flash hider and make it look like a weld. do you really think they will try and spin off the device to check the weld?



























