School me on chokes - 12ga Mossberg

Suther

Suther

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So I've got a 12ga Mossberg Maverick 88. It came with a barrel with interchangeable chokes, and currently rocks the MOD that came with it.

I want to get something that is a bit more open for grouse. I was thinking either Skeet or I/C. I figure the combination of the two chokes would be good for most hunting scenarios... Agree?(No turkey around these parts)

Are the cheaper Carlson or Mossberg chokes for $25-35 good enough? Or is it really worth spending the extra money on a $80 choke?
What are the advantages to an extended choke? Tighter pattern? Shorter shot string? Both?

Is there any brand to avoid? Or to specifically look for?

What do you prefer and why?

Thanks for the input!
 
I was dusting Grouse with my Stock Modified choke on the 1100 a couple weeks ago.
Unless your getting closer than 30 yrds what are you looking to gain by a more open choke?
Nothing wrong with an I/C or skeet, but if they are flushing further out it may well be a detriment than a bonus.
Shot choice for grouse???
 
FLHTCUI said:
I was dusting Grouse with my Stock Modified choke on the 1100 a couple weeks ago.
Unless your getting closer than 30 yrds what are you looking to gain by a more open choke?
Nothing wrong with an I/C or skeet, but if they are flushing further out it may well be a detriment than a bonus.
Shot choice for grouse???
Click to expand...

Last weekend they were flushing at like 10 yards or less. I didn't have my shotgun with me, i had my 22 but my buddy with his cylinder bore had no problems.

So far it's been 7.5 target loads, 1 1/8oz. I also have some 5s and 6s that might do better, there are still lots of leaves on the trees.... i dunno, I'm a total noob at this...
 
If they are flushing at 10 yards, a more open choke would be better. Nothing wrong with an IC choke. Not sure if there is a big box retailer that sells private brand chokes anywhere near you, but you'll find well priced Carlson chokes from Als corner store. You can order online, and they ship them faster then grass can go through a goose
 
Suther, you and your buddy should try some Number 6's .
Nothing wrong with 7's, but the 7's run out of steam fast.
I have shot grouse with 7's, but didnt let them flush.
Bird in hand is worth two in bush.
Rob
 
FLHTCUI said:
Suther, you and your buddy should try some Number 6's .
Nothing wrong with 7's, but the 7's run out of steam fast.
I have shot grouse with 7's, but didnt let them flush.
Bird in hand is worth two in bush.
Rob
Click to expand...

We are heading out for a few days next weekend, and planned to hunt deer for the first few hours and last few hours of light, and then spend some time chasing chickens during the day. I'll definitely bring both a box of 6s for the trip. Last time all my buddy had was 7.5

If 6s are good, what about 5s? getting too big now?
 
Suther said:
We are heading out for a few days next weekend, and planned to hunt deer for the first few hours and last few hours of light, and then spend some time chasing chickens during the day. I'll definitely bring both a box of 6s for the trip. Last time all my buddy had was 7.5

If 6s are good, what about 5s? getting too big now?
Click to expand...

Suther, run what ya brung...
I have used 7.5's 6's,5's and even number 4's.
All because that is what I had on the shelf.
Let them get further away (40yrds +) and dont dust them on the hard.
Hell head shots with the 300Winmag where done from time to time.
One in hand is better than two in the bush.
Heavy cover makes for a challenge, but dont take my word on it.
I am far from the expert, just some examples of what has worked for me in the past.
Tight Covies,
Rob
 
opinions on shot size vs choke size?

Is a tighter choke better with smaller shot, because you need more pellets on target to bring down a bird compared to larger shot, or is a tighter choke with larger shot better because you need to keep your pattern dense enough to not have bird-sized holes?

Im thinking something like 7.5 would be ideal for a more open choke, because they'll spread fast without leaving big holes in the pattern (also too light to take advantage of the increased range from a tighter choke maybe???), while the 6s and a tighter choke is better because the 5s or 6s have more killing power at range?
 
Suther, get out there and experiment.
Let me know your real world results.
Two birds in hand are way better than chasing them on the internet, Yes ?
Grouse are pretty easy to knock down, the skill is getting them into your hands before they retrieve or hide under some cover before you get to where
you last seen it.
Rob
 
FLHTCUI said:
Suther, get out there and experiment.
Let me know your real world results.

Rob
Click to expand...

Alas, It is much easier to chase them on the internet! Lol

Between work and school, Friday/Saturday are pretty much my only days to go out, and this weekend was my little girls birthday party so it'll have to wait until next Thursday at the earliest. Besides, I still want to get a more open choke, I'll be heading to Wanstalls on Tuesday for that.
 
After trying many configurations, I have come to love a full choke with 7.5 when using a barrel with sights.

When they are close I aim for the head and I can reach farther back in the brush when required. Not great for flight stopping, but where I hunt is mostly forest with narrow trails. If they take off, they disappear way to fast anyway.
 
I've always liked #6 lead for grouse or partridge, #4 lead for pheasant, BB steal ducks and geese.

When I'm not using my o/u I use I/C choke for upland and MOD for ducks and geese.
On my o/u bottom choke (1st shot) is I/C top choke is full choke (2nd shot).

I keep my shotgun chokes the same with each gun. I have my shotguns all setup for what I plan to hunt. Except for the Remington 870, that gun is my utility gun and has its loadout changed constantly. From tactical to ducks to tactical ducks.

Here's a quick guide which really really really helped me learn my chokes and guns.

1. Cut a 30" circle out of cardboard (template)
2. Buy packaging paper from staples. 24" wide roll 250' long (30$)
3. Put two pieces of paper together to make a 48"x48" target. Then spray paint the card template on your target.
4. At 20 / 40 / 60 / 80 yards shoot the target to see how you pattern. Put up a new target after each shot.

You will be able to see your drop, if your gun shoots high or low, and the partern your choke makes. Make note of which range fills your circle the most. If you don't like the range which it fills the pattern the best then change chokes and try again. A little range time to learn your weapon helps a lot.

Also Sometimes it's best to let the bird fly a bit so you don't turn it into Crimson mist.

I hope this might help you out. Bird hunting is my favorite, I find deer hunting boring. Too many hours spent tracking and hiking and not enough time shooting. Nothing beats crawling into a duck blind with lots of action.
 
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Suther said:
opinions on shot size vs choke size?

Is a tighter choke better with smaller shot, because you need more pellets on target to bring down a bird compared to larger shot, or is a tighter choke with larger shot better because you need to keep your pattern dense enough to not have bird-sized holes?

Im thinking something like 7.5 would be ideal for a more open choke, because they'll spread fast without leaving big holes in the pattern (also too light to take advantage of the increased range from a tighter choke maybe???), while the 6s and a tighter choke is better because the 5s or 6s have more killing power at range?
Click to expand...

Typically larger shot will pattern tighter with a given choke all else being equal. Slower loads pattern tighter as well. Mod is normally a good pattern 25-35 yards, past that full, closer than that IC/skeet. There are too many variables though- the only way to know is pattern your ammo/choke combination. Briley has a lot of choke information on their website- a lot is directed at clay shooters but the principles are the same.
 
You do not need a extended choke for that type of hunting I would get the flush factory chokes in IC or skeet at close range these chokes will not damage the birds as a mod. or full.
The reason I like to use extended is for waterfowl hunting is they are stronger then the standard flush type. One year I had a problem with the flush type that the steel shot made the
modified choke expand and made it very hard to remove since then I use a extended Modified and have never had that problem again. Extend chokes are easy to remove buy hand .
 
If most of your shots are under 25 yds, 7.5 shot will work fine on grouse. The heavier shot starts to be more effective than 7.5 when you start shooting past 25 yds and noticeably more effective past 30 yds - Which doesn't happen very often with ruffed grouse in the bush.

If I were you, I'd just use the MOD choke and just see how it works. If the MOD choke turns out to be too tight, I'd probably lean towards the skeet choke. I use a SxS with IC / MOD chokes and the same shells you do for grouse and it works fine.
 
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