School me on muzzle brakes

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Silveragent

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Please help me out here in sorting out the information I have gathered from here and other sources. This is really just for range shooting or maybe in the future 3-gun.

1. A muzzle brake can help with recoil and muzzle flip. So it should make my second shots be easier.

2. muzzle brakes can look pretty cool. I know this doesn't sound hard core but is it ok to have a muzzle brake just for cosmetic purposes if it otherwise has no effect on the shooting dynamics or can it harm the shooting or the barrel?

3. A muzzle brake that screws onto a threaded barrel is more desirable because it has less chance of being shot offm correct? So I should avoid pin kind or muzzle brakes or is it still ok if something like Loctite is used?

4. Can certain barrels not be threaded? I have a Kel-Tec SU16F and I've read the opinion that it (based upon the U.S. A2 version) is a thin barrel.

5. Getting a smith to thread the barrel is inexpensive? I've read it should be a $25 job. So can I expect to go to a smith and wait while they do it? What information would they need? Is it a job I should DIY and not screw it up too badly? I have a Dremel but I don't really like acquiring specialized tools just for a job I do once.

6. When looking for a muzzle brake they seem to be offered for the common platforms: AR, AK, Mini-14, SKS, Mosin. How does it matter for my rifle? Is it just the diameter of the barrel? When I see brakes advertised they normally just say the platform and not diameter specifications.

7. If the barrel is smaller than those platforms, I need to use some sort of washer? Are there common kinds?

8. Can I order these from the U.S. or are they controlled by ITAR?

9. How about eBay sources from say Hong Kong that might be knockoffs. Or ones that are made for Airsoft?
 
10. They can significantly increase the noise of each shot.
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ohhhh.. what factors decide this? I actually don't like annoying other people. I shot beside a guy with an RFB one time (it had a Dlask brake on it) and was definitely a bit put off by the blast.
 
Silver, my suggestion would be to call Dlask Arms and see if they can thread the barrel 1/2x28 and if so how much they would charge. 1/2x28 is the standard thread pitch for AR15's and variants and will give you the largest selection of muzzle devices for .223/5.56.

Then ask yourself what you want your muzzle device to do? Recoil reduction, compensation of muzzle flip, flash reduction, or some combination of the three. Once you answer that question you can choose from literally hundreds of options. All of them work the best, according to the manufacturers.:D

I don't think it's realistic to expect the threading to be done while you wait.

Don't f**k around with Airsoft junk. They are not made to handle the heat and stresses associated with firing a rifle round.
 
Depending on the style, they can be extremely loud, but can reduce recoil as much as 50% ( again, depending on design).

ANY machine shop will be able to thread your barrel, for a .223/5.56 get 1/2x28 left hand threading. With a muzzle brake, you may have to use crush or peel washers to tighten and index it, i would not recoment any thread locker though, since the blue wont be enough for the heat, and red will be impossible to remove if you need to.

Honestly for anything less than .30 cal rounds, i'd say a brake isn't required, if you use a 308 for fast stuff then it may be a good idea.
 
Silveragent said:
ohhhh.. what factors decide this? I actually don't like annoying other people. I shot beside a guy with an RFB one time (it had a Dlask brake on it) and was definitely a bit put off by the blast.
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The break redirects the gases away from the shooter ie to the person beside you thats why its not always fun to shoot beside someone with a muzzle break.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. you are right there are hundreds of options. That's where it gets so confusing to me.

As for the muzzle brake for the SU .. I admit a lot of it has to do with how it looks, but I saw a video where a guy with an SU demonstrated shooting before and after mounting some kind of AK brake and it did look like it cut the muzzle flip a significant way.
 
F22_RaptoR said:
i would not recoment any thread locker though, since the blue wont be enough for the heat, and red will be impossible to remove if you need to.
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Heat is used to soften Red Loctite to remove fasteners. So it is useless for securing a muzzle device.

The best is to have the parts machined to index correctly, but crush washers are good enough for the military.
 
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