As the title states I'm looking for a suitable scope that will let me actually see where I'm hitting from 100 - 300 meters and a spotting scope that will let me see in fine detail where I'm hitting. I've already figured that this won't be supper cheap and I'm looking at a Bushnell Elite 4200 series I just don't know what level of magnification I will need to be able to watch the bullet hit paper at 300m.
Scope and Spotting Scope for 300m shooting
- Thread starter Critter81
- Start date
Critter81 said:
Just get a Nightforce 8xto32x56mm Benchrest and you need no spotting scope. talked to many shooters at a Fclass shoot, in Ottawa last summer and the Nightforce is rated the best.no lag moves on adjustments,leupolds and others have some problems, including the Mark 4 series.
Critter Unless you are shooting a very large caliber NO rifle scope will show you holes at 300 yards. Typically you use 40-60 power in a spotting scope to see holes in paper at 300 yards. A 20 power scope will let you see holes at 100 yards. A Night force scope might let you see holes out to 200. FS
Well my big thing was just figuring out what sort of optice I would be needing to shoot at that range. I was out with a 15 power and really couldn't make out my target. I could see the orange in centre, but walking the 600m just to see if I hit on the page was a pain in the ass. First attempt with a 22-250 6 of 8 rounds on the target, just about 6 - 8 inches low. I guess I'll be looking for a scope around or just above a 32 power then. Thanks for the help.
Your scope may not be the problem it could be your choice of targets. Try using a target with a bigger aiming mark. A DCRA 300 yard target is almost 22" in dia. The V Bull is 2 3/4". Your rifle scope should be able to pick up the V Bull ring at 300 yards. A fixed 10X will do this.
The targets I was using were just fine. The orange ring in the centre was visiable with out the aid of optics at the 300m mark. I just wanted to be able to see with more detail where i was hitting. With a 4x a 22LR I can see my group at 100m, I just can't see my group at 300m on the 22-250.
I'm on a 8x10 peice of paper at 300m, so I don't need a 22" target.
Now I know I will need a scope that in the 32x range to be able to actually see what I'm doing. I'll look around and see if any of the guys at the club happen to be shooting a setup like that and if they are willing to let me take a peek through thier optics.
I'm on a 8x10 peice of paper at 300m, so I don't need a 22" target.
Now I know I will need a scope that in the 32x range to be able to actually see what I'm doing. I'll look around and see if any of the guys at the club happen to be shooting a setup like that and if they are willing to let me take a peek through thier optics.
Critter81 said:
One of the biggest issues with high magnification scopes is mirage. Some of the F Class shooters will jump in anytime now. At this time of year there is very little mirage. When the temps get higher and humidity is up, looking through a high magnification scope is like looking through soup.
Yes some F Class shooters use 36X and some even have them bumped to
50X but they are giving up definition for magnification.
With a 22X WA spotting scope, zero wind and light behind the target, I can see .30 cal holes at 300 yards. I don't know if a 32X or 36X will let you see
.22 holes (.22-250) at 300 yards even in the best of conditions.
smokin'stoegie
CGN Regular
- Location
- S/West Ontario
Critter81, you got a PM
Maynard, What's this F-Class stuff these guys are talking about?
I'm just basically your typical weekend warrior that happens to have a long range at his club. I just kinda find it fun shooting out to the 300m mark. So I'm not at the competative level or even thinking about it, this is just fun for me.
I'm just basically your typical weekend warrior that happens to have a long range at his club. I just kinda find it fun shooting out to the 300m mark. So I'm not at the competative level or even thinking about it, this is just fun for me.
Critter81 said:
Have a look at the ORA web page w w w.ontariorifleassociation.org (take out the spaces) Look into the winter program and Introductory Days.
Short range is 300-600 yards, long range is 800, 900 and 1000 yards.
You do not have to be (or want to be) at a competitive level to shoot the practice shoots. I do have to warn you, that once you start hitting a target 1000 yards away, you will be hooked.
From your location Cedar Springs and Winona are about the same distance to drive.
Have you tried the Shoot-N-See targets made by birchwood casey ?
they are black but when shot they leave a BRIGHT yellow ring around the bullet hole roughly 1/4" thick *when shot with a .303 british the dia of the yellow area is about the size of a nickel*
I'll see if i have one around that has been shot to use as an example.
but next time your picking up targets grab a pack to try. oh yeah they also come in differnt sizes and can be stuck on to other targets like a sticker
they are black but when shot they leave a BRIGHT yellow ring around the bullet hole roughly 1/4" thick *when shot with a .303 british the dia of the yellow area is about the size of a nickel*
I'll see if i have one around that has been shot to use as an example.
but next time your picking up targets grab a pack to try. oh yeah they also come in differnt sizes and can be stuck on to other targets like a sticker
Spotting scope for 300 yards....
First...shoot-n-see targets are expensive if you plan to do any amount of shooting and they are not used in competition. Use the size targets that are used in competition at 300 yards to start. I recently bought a spotting scope for 100-300 yard use, a 20-60 power variable with the BassPro brand name and ......I don't like it. I should have spent more money. $225.00 is not enough. I find the eye piece too small and the eye relief very critical. I have used one of the other guys scopes...Swarovski....and it was night and day...both in performance and in price. If you are serious and are in for the long term you should spend as much as possible or buy used. Good luck.
First...shoot-n-see targets are expensive if you plan to do any amount of shooting and they are not used in competition. Use the size targets that are used in competition at 300 yards to start. I recently bought a spotting scope for 100-300 yard use, a 20-60 power variable with the BassPro brand name and ......I don't like it. I should have spent more money. $225.00 is not enough. I find the eye piece too small and the eye relief very critical. I have used one of the other guys scopes...Swarovski....and it was night and day...both in performance and in price. If you are serious and are in for the long term you should spend as much as possible or buy used. Good luck.
Bull####. I had a cheap-ass Tasco 8-32x44 that i used on my 204. I could spot the holes at 300, if the contrast was good (i.e. white paper. Holes in the black were invisible). And the Tasco came with a nice long sunshade that helped with the mirage.Fassteel said:
Now, I mostly shoot gophers out around the 300 mark. They're pretty binary when it comes to 'hit' or 'no hit'
. I reserve paper shooting to 200 at the range, past that it's time to ring the gongs.Dantforth said:
Thanks For the advice, that's pretty much exacally what i was looking for. I checked out those 'REdHead' ones at Bass Pro as well, actually hurt my eyes just looking across the store with them. I was thinking about checking out those Bushnell ones, seem to be pretty decent optics for the money.
I know and understand that you get what you pay for, but as a new shooter we all have to start somewhere. I personally can't afford to buy a 2500 Spooting scope and spend 2500 on a rifle and scope in the same year, but putting the money out for the rifle seems to be the most logical way to go about it. Then just buy better stuff when my skill level can handle it.
I'm not talking about buying a 50$ rifle off some old lady who used it as a fire poker and expecting to get results. I'm just not about to go out and blow 7G on a .50BMG before I can hit a page at 100yards.
prosper said:Bulls**t. I had a cheap-ass Tasco 8-32x44 that i used on my 204. I could spot the holes at 300, if the contrast was good (i.e. white paper. Holes in the black were invisible). And the Tasco came with a nice long sunshade that helped with the mirage.
Now, I mostly shoot gophers out around the 300 mark. They're pretty binary when it comes to 'hit' or 'no hit'
I should note that that Tasco was crap in every way, and I'd strongly urge you to look elsewhere. The Bushy 4200's offer arguably the BEST bang for you buck of any scope out there. Something in the 8-32 range (if it exists) is probably just the ticket. a 6-24 would probably also work if you;ve got sharp eyes
In F Class or TR shooting there is a person in the butts that pulls the target down everytime you shoot it. They put an orange spotting disc in the shot hole and a value indicator on the target frame. The target is then raise back up. For 300 yards/meters the spotting disc is is about 1 1/2" diameter. Mid range indicators (500-600 yards) are about 3 inches and long range around 6 inches. For this type of shooting your spotting scope only needs to be able to pick out the orange indicator on a black target face at those ranges.
Very few F Class shooter take a spotting scope to the line with them, most (99%) will spot with the scope on their rifle.
Very few F Class shooter take a spotting scope to the line with them, most (99%) will spot with the scope on their rifle.
