Scope height, does it matter?

If you don’t have a level bubble on your scope, you want to be as low as your cheek and eye relief allows. Canting your rifle makes a big difference at long ranges, especially with a tall mounted optic.
Mounting the scope level is more important than height.
Accuracy International normally has high mounts with their kits and they work well.
 
If you don’t have a level bubble on your scope, you want to be as low as your cheek and eye relief allows. Canting your rifle makes a big difference at long ranges, especially with a tall mounted optic.
Mounting the scope level is more important than height.

I disagree with that and wrote up my reasoning here:
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...ope-rifle-angle-cant-alignment-does-it-matter

I agree that having a bubble level on the scope is very important, and more important the farther the shot (or more accurately, the more elevation you have dialed into your scope).
 
This is the same question I'm having. I tried searching on youtube but I haven't found the answer. I'm looking for something that is comfortable.
 
In short. NO.

The ballistic/drop curve will be the same. Only your initial zero adjustment and dope will be a little different.
But the constant will be the same.
 
Not... exactly. ...

As long as your reticule is level and that you use it leveled to the earth.. Rifle can be canted.
Gravity will be the same. Elevation and corrections will be good to go.

The "Not exactly" type of comment does nothing good for this community. Go on expert. Explain yourself and contribute to this amazing site.
 
I went with high rings with my MDT rings/chassis and am very happy with the ergonomics. The buttpad is where it should be and with the adjustable cheek rest the neck position is more neutral (less twisted upward). I would favor lower scope in a traditional setup, but with an adjustable stock and anti-cant device, ergonomics becomes very interesting. Just have a look at Cadex or AI sniper systems: scopes are fairly high.
 
As long as your reticule is level and that you use it leveled to the earth.. Rifle can be canted.
Gravity will be the same. Elevation and corrections will be good to go.

The "Not exactly" type of comment does nothing good for this community. Go on expert. Explain yourself and contribute to this amazing site.

OK.

First... height does matter... as is the OPs question. Mounting your scope high or low depending on caliber, can change the barrel/sight relationship and exhadurate the points where the tragectory passes the sight plane. (Try a ballistic calculator and enter 1.5" vs 3" scope height) it can also rob you of elevation travel...

Second. If you don't plum the reticle to the action your ballistic curve Will constantly be adding windage that is not necessary.
Your rifle will consistently be hitting to one side or the other, and your windage will change significantly over distance, and direction facing.

Let's say you are plumed properly. Your drops look something like this with no wind.

100m E=0 w=0
200m e= -1.5 w=0
300m e= -3.2 w= 0

If your rifle is off cant to your reticle it now looks like this:
100m e=0 w=0
200m e= -1.5 w=.2
300m e= -3.2 w = .5

So your round is hitting approximately 1.5" to the side (unless you adjusted windage dial)

Now add a breeze. If the breeze = .5 moa at 300m, and is going in the same direction as your cant... you are now 3" off...
If the breeze is against your can't, you are now POA/POI

Why would you do that on purpose? Why not plum your reticle to the action and have your wind call be consistent?
 
I think he means the rifle can be any angle it wants to be, so long as your horiztonal line of the reticle matches the horizon of the earth, which is technically true.
 
I think he means the rifle can be any angle it wants to be, so long as your horiztonal line of the reticle matches the horizon of the earth, which is technically true.

If your vertical line is not centered through the bore (plummed) you are doing yourself a dis-service.

https://www.shootingillustrated.com/content/rifle-scope-reticle-cant/

Have a read... and a special attention to the graphic illustrating a 3 degree rifle can't.

The article adresses rifle, scope, and reticle cant individually.

I get it... your dope can still be established, and consistent.

But your wind call's... windage adjustments... and calculations are more complicated than they need to be.

Why not just mount your scope, plum your vertical axis to the bore, and make your life easier? Especially if you are using slanted bases or muting rails.


I should also add if you are using a bubble level you can negate the majority of the issues.
 
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I think it depends on personal preference and shooting style. I like a scope as low as practical, but it is not necessary for me. "Cheek weld" is a popular concept recently, some would say "cheek weld' is critical to success. Only a couple of my rifles allow firm cheek contact. And they are mostly varmint/target type rifles. European hunters do well with lower combs and higher scope mounts than is fashionable in the USA. I like European rifles and technology better than most USA products so I have transitioned to their way of shooting while hunting game animals. More "heads up" and less stock crawling. I like longer stocks too. Instead of a "cheek weld" I now seek a lower point anchor, more like a "jaw weld". This technique is also better suited to quick shots at moving game, from standing, kneeling or sitting. The European type of heads up mount is less suited to prone shooting at far distant targets. If you like laying on your belly to shoot at targets, varmints or game animals far, far away, you won't be happy with a high mounted scope and a stock with much drop at comb and heel.

Well said and exactly true. I have a combination of US and Euro made rifles, and can shoot both set-ups well. With regard to quick shots at moving game, however, my CZ 557 Lux with Warnes high rings / 50mm objective is probably the rifle I can shoot the best and most consistently.
 
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