Scope Level
- Thread starter savage112
- Start date
I level and plumb the rifle and do the same for the scope, keeping both plumb and level while torquing scope rings.
It can still be off if you cant the combo in the field especially off of a bipod that will allow canting.
Conversely I have a CQB semi that has a reflex mounted on a 45 picatinny as back up/low light usage to iron sights. The reflex is zeroed on a cant.
It can still be off if you cant the combo in the field especially off of a bipod that will allow canting.
Conversely I have a CQB semi that has a reflex mounted on a 45 picatinny as back up/low light usage to iron sights. The reflex is zeroed on a cant.
yes I understand some have rifle canted but scope is level please school me on the difference between tracking and the position of the alignment of the reticle
By tracking I mean how the reticle moves when you adjust the scope. In a perfect world it will be parallel with your vertical crosshair. But the world is not perfect.
Now worrying about how much its off may not be all that important with a quality optic. You might see 1 moa over your scopes travel. With a cheap optic it may be way more. So that means that you may have a horizontal error when dialing vs. holding over. This will make it tough to learn how to read wind. Same goes for shooting without a scope level.
skypilot,
This is what i use for leveling scopes...
Using a piece of 1"x 3" hardwood i drilled out
a hole slightly smaller than the barrel dia.
then cut it half and pre-drilled 2 screw holes.
Put the wood adapter on the barrel and snug
the screws then set the line level on it.
With the scope removed set a level on the scope
ring and adjust rifle until it shows level. Without
bumping, level the barrel adapter level until it matches
the ring level. Reinstall the scope, set the level on
the turret cap, level the scope to match the barrel level
and tighten ring screws. Walmart has both levels for
less than $6.00 U.S.
This is what i use for leveling scopes...
Using a piece of 1"x 3" hardwood i drilled out
a hole slightly smaller than the barrel dia.
then cut it half and pre-drilled 2 screw holes.
Put the wood adapter on the barrel and snug
the screws then set the line level on it.
With the scope removed set a level on the scope
ring and adjust rifle until it shows level. Without
bumping, level the barrel adapter level until it matches
the ring level. Reinstall the scope, set the level on
the turret cap, level the scope to match the barrel level
and tighten ring screws. Walmart has both levels for
less than $6.00 U.S.
I ran across a reference to this scope-leveling product on the Rimfire Central forum:
http://www.microlevel.biz/vertical_retical_instrument.html
It was discussed in this thread. See Posts #14, 15, and 16:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813241&page=2
http://www.microlevel.biz/vertical_retical_instrument.html
It was discussed in this thread. See Posts #14, 15, and 16:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813241&page=2
- Location
- Jameson, SK
I just received a custom made scope leveling device that Keil Motorsports in Texas made for me. I'll put up some pics later.
I designed it on the assumption that the rail on the rifle is square and level, and that if the scope is vertical in the rings, you're good. This is attained by making the temporary pic rail perfectly level (using a starrett level good to .0005), and then eyeballing the reticle to a vertical laser line at the end of a long space, like my barn. I did this because I've never been happy with my (or anyone's) ability to level a rifle off a 3/4" pic rail, or the action grooves/slots.
As for rifle mounted levels, they look cool, and I own some, but you have to be pretty damn good to need it to make a shot......I don't know that I'm that good.
GGG
I designed it on the assumption that the rail on the rifle is square and level, and that if the scope is vertical in the rings, you're good. This is attained by making the temporary pic rail perfectly level (using a starrett level good to .0005), and then eyeballing the reticle to a vertical laser line at the end of a long space, like my barn. I did this because I've never been happy with my (or anyone's) ability to level a rifle off a 3/4" pic rail, or the action grooves/slots.
As for rifle mounted levels, they look cool, and I own some, but you have to be pretty damn good to need it to make a shot......I don't know that I'm that good.
GGG
- Location
- Jameson, SK
So how do you 100% avoid canting your rifle?? What is the true level on the action?? On my Kelbly with the integrated milled rail I feel pretty confident, but what about on my tikka where the screw on rail might well be 1 or 2 (or 5) degrees off after torquing??
Actions are almost all somewhat round. Makes it hard to me square, or level, on a round surface....
This is the premise of my levelling device - trust that the action and rail are level, just make damn sure you have the scope as level as possible in its rings....
You missed all the posts that mentioned a scope level to reduce errors associated with cant.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
You missed all the posts that mentioned a scope level to reduce errors associated with cant.
I haven't missed anything. That device that you just posted a picture of is completely useless if the steps before it aren't level. There are many steps needed before you glance at your tacticool scope level, if you're doing it for anything more than to impress chicks.
Step zero: this concept is almost completely irrelevant under about 600yds.
Step one: You have to get the action level to the horizontal (good f-Ing luck - even the level-level-level system assumes that the rail is level to the action. It may or may not be.)
Step two: you have to get the rail level to the previously levelled action. That pic rail is about 3/4" across the top. That 3/4" surface area is a pretty narrow balancing area for your harborfreight/princess auto level to sit on.
Step three: you have to get your rings/mount level to the previously levelled rail and action. Let's assume that millett/ATRS/weaver/vortex/NF/alpha/SPUHR are on their game, at all times, which we know they aren't. None of us are.
Step four: you have to get your reticle TRULY level/perpendicular to the previously levelled rings/mount, which was previously levelled to the rail, which was previously levelled to the action. This is where my Frankensteinlevel device comes in....
Step five: you have to now test your scope for tracking, at a long range (ie. 600-1000yds) to see if your optic is as true as you hope it is by dialling up 10-20-30 MOA and tracking your hits one a 10' tall piece of paper.
Step six: you have to do your job, as a shooter, better than you ever thought possible to even be worrying about this minutia. This mental masturbation applies to few, and most days i'm not one of them.
GGG
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You do the best that you can to level both the rifle and the scope, so if the crosshairs are being held vertical, so is the rifle. The point is that setting the crosshairs level with the rifle canted , will add windage error.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Exactly. We're agreeing, just saying it in different ways. It's the "do your best" part that I'm trying to make more reproduceable.
GGG
I believe that's the Microlevel I mentioned three posts before yours. The link in that post shows how this device works. I might add that a real "scope guy" on the Rimfire Central forum swears that it works as advertised.Anyone use one of these to level your scope?
Anyone use one of these to level your scope?
Yes. Fast and precise. And you do not have to worry about flat planes on scope or rifle.
It is the EXD ENGINEERING VERTICAL RETICLE INSTRUMENT and has been mentioned in an earlier post.
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Don't forget this! While not positive on all brands, I understand that the QC limit for reticles may be as much as 3 degrees from plumb and true.
I'm with GGG, much of this is mental masturbation unless you're out to 600 plus yards. It is worthwhile to be as confident as possible but if you're not shooting F-Class or hunt out to 500 yds then time to address other worldly problems.
I'm with GGG, much of this is mental masturbation unless you're out to 600 plus yards. It is worthwhile to be as confident as possible but if you're not shooting F-Class or hunt out to 500 yds then time to address other worldly problems.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
.....unless you wanna impress chicks...!!!!
There are lots of 600+ yd shooters on here though....
God, I hope that based on what we pay for some of our optics that the reticles are pointing straight UP!!!.....to the zenith, as it were.....
There are lots of 600+ yd shooters on here though....
God, I hope that based on what we pay for some of our optics that the reticles are pointing straight UP!!!.....to the zenith, as it were.....
Personally I love my Segway reticle leveller. I have used others but I find that in 90% of situation s this is the quickest and most accurate. A top marksman said they never trust a level sitting on the vertical dial because they find a high percentage are never level with the reticle. They mount a lot of scopes as they are also Gunsmith's and use the Segway in 90% of situations
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...velers/segway-reticle-levelers-prod56125.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...velers/segway-reticle-levelers-prod56125.aspx
