Scope levels ...

Yes, they tell you if your rifle is level or not. This is critical at long range. if you cant the rifle to the right for instance, the impact will be right and low.
 
I don’t know guys...

We have shot copious amounts of .308s out to 1000-1300 yds and have never needed a level.
 
Only on CGN would some one say a scope level is useless....


Of course they work. Do you 100% need it? No, of course not. But are they handy and a good reference tool? Yes.
 
AKD said:
Only on CGN would some one say a scope level is useless....


Of course they work. Do you 100% need it? No, of course not. But are they handy and a good reference tool? Yes.
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If your scope is level on your rifle, you can read the horizontal x-hair, as close as you can read a bubble, and you don't have to get out of the scope to see it.

NormB
 
With a level if it's set right you don't need to get out of or scope anyway. Just gota open both eyes.

Even like I said ya you don't need one. We have all shot for years with out one. I just got one on my scope about 3 years ago and I love it. They do help.
 
AKD said:
Only on CGN would some one say a scope level is useless....
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Don't need a level? Well, you don't need a scope, either. Or any sights for that matter, some people, have the inate ability of doing everything by feel.

For those of us that like mechanical aids, scope levels certainly have their place. That place is typically LR shooting. I use one, love it.

Using your horizontal cross hairs only really works if shooting against a horizontal horizon. If the background is uneven, a level is the best way to know if the rifle is level.

I've seen one scope that had the level built right into the scope, so its right there, in your sight picture. Can't remember the model though, i'd never heard of it before.
 
I have one, I like it, I even use it from time to time. And by and large they are not necessary.

At long range, it is important to keep the cant of the rifle constant from shot to shot.

If you are using a rifle scope and you are shooting somewhere that has good visual cues (which is to say, nearly every conventional rifle range in the world), you can get away without a level. When setting up the rifle in aim, you make your crosshairs agree with the horizontal and/or vertical reference cues of the target frame and carry on. If your crosshairs are visually within a few inches of being level on a 1000 yard target frame, you are more than level enough.

If you ever want to shoot on a field firing range that does not have good vertical/horizontal references, you can use a scope level to give you that.


(P.S. to NormB - it's not even necessary to mount the scope level on the rifle. Think about a rifle with a scope mounted at (say) a 10 degree cant, and shooter who then makes the scope level to the target for each shot...)
 
Thanks for the input folks. I guess having only shot on ranges before I've never given it too much thought. I think I will pick one up, they're pretty cheap and it'll make setting up with a bipod much quicker. Any Canadian source for the Vortex anti-can't level?
 
I got my vortex level from one shot tactical, supporting dealer look up^

I shoot mainly long range plinking, if you are trying to hit a milk jug or 10" gong at 1000 plus the level is nice to have, especially if you have then set out in random locations and distances. The ground is never really level in my parts...
 
Scope level setup

Tikka223 said:
Thanks for the input folks. I guess having only shot on ranges before I've never given it too much thought. I think I will pick one up, they're pretty cheap and it'll make setting up with a bipod much quicker. Any Canadian source for the Vortex anti-can't level?
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Hi guys.

If you want a dependable way to set the bubble level (to level with your scope), set a heavy string line with a weight on it.
The string will obviously hang perfectly verticle.
I sit on my bench at 100 and set/tilt my rifle until the verticle cross hairs are perfectly parrallel to the string line.

THEN, I pivot the slightly loose level till the bubble is perfectly centered.
Have some one, or yourself, snug up the level a little.
This will align the level and your scope to each other.

After this is accomplished, then you can try to level your rifle/scope relationship.

It seems to me that the level/scope alignment is more important than the scope/rifle alignment. "relatively" speaking.
This just insures that your vertical adjustments match the levels referance.

If your rifle/scope alignment is a little out, its no big deal, Normally.
But closer is always better.

Hopefully I described this clearly.
 
dthunter that's a nice clear description of a most practical way to align your level to your scope's reticle. (a paranoid person would want to confirm that the scope's adjustments cause the image to shift along the same lines as the reticle suggests it ought to!)

I also like that you point out the that this alignment isn't critical, just simply convenient/desirable.
 
Re: scope level

rnbra-shooter said:
dthunter that's a nice clear description of a most practical way to align your level to your scope's reticle. (a paranoid person would want to confirm that the scope's adjustments cause the image to shift along the same lines as the reticle suggests it ought to!)

I also like that you point out the that this alignment isn't critical, just simply convenient/desirable.
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Thanks for the compliments.

As far as the parinoid comment, lol!
Thats been me at times as well!

I performed a scope function test at 100 and with great pains, was very careful of my scope/level alignment.
After all was said and done, my group that was fired at full scope vertical adjustment revealed that the adjustments/cross hair alignment path seemed true.

Have you ever heard of a scope that was badly out of alignment this way?
That would suck!

Have fun you gunnutz, and dont sweat the small stuff too much.
 
On my last rifle I used the flat base of the vortex level set on pic rail to level the rifle in a vise, then used the level set on top of the elevation knob to level the scope. Then I just installed the level with the bubble as close to perfectly centered as I could. Everything was leveled using the same bubble. Seems to be working fine for me, my adjustments are close enough that I can't see any shift out to 1200 yards.
 
Tack-243 said:
Anyone can shoot to these distances, but are you trying to hit a 10 inch circle at a 1000 or a 4x8 sheet of ply wood, theres a big difference.

Cheers;)
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True, and anyone can drive a Ferrari, but that doesn’t mean they should.
We are shooting a 14.75" x 8.87" gong, as well as 1L Nalgene water bottles :rolleyes:
 
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