I've been trying longer ranges for target shooting and I'm shooting 3-400 yards mainly now. Im using Meopro 4-12 scope, is this enough magnification for my ranges? I always have sub moa groups at 100 yards but they open way up at longer range so I thought maybe a new scope may help.
Scope magnification for 300 yards
- Thread starter renton83
- Start date
you need an aiming point that is adequate for the magnification of your scope, the higher the magnification allows for a smaller target, a 6 inch colored square at 300 yards is easier to aim on with a 12 or 14 power scope, if you want to shoot at 1 inch circles then obviously more magnification is required, I like small targets, there for I need more magnification, for years 36x weavers at 300 were the catz azz, then I got a 10-50, then a 15-55, and then an 8-80......bottom line is, if your on a budget, glass is expensive, buy good glass and make your targets bigger so you can hold a good solid aim on them.
ALBERTA BOY
Regular
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
The rifle that prints tiny little 1/2MOA groups - yes really - all the way out to 400 meters has a 2-7x32 on it. You don't need a lot of magnification.
Do you need it? As stated above, some can get there without it.
Me, I am spoiled now and can't go without it. Like some say, don't go and try Alpha glass, as you will only buy alpha glass afterwards. Nothing else will suffice after.
Once you try it the first time, you will want it more.
I use a 4-16x50 on my 10/22, and get out to 300 yards with it.
Me, I am spoiled now and can't go without it. Like some say, don't go and try Alpha glass, as you will only buy alpha glass afterwards. Nothing else will suffice after.
Once you try it the first time, you will want it more.
I use a 4-16x50 on my 10/22, and get out to 300 yards with it.
I ended up getting another scope which i hope is better. Its a Leupold vx-iii 6.5-20x40 scope. I used one on a friends rifle before and really liked it, the best part is it has a 1" tube so i can use my existing tikka scope mounts. The equipment exchange here is great for buying and selling.
^^^ This is very true.
With a 10x scope, with adjustable parallax, and a mil-quad reticle is good for < 0.5 moa at 500m, same goes with 1000 yards.
A lot easier to get good groups with higher magnification to a point and you can turn it down if mirage is an issue.
ALBERTA BOY
Regular
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
For me: I don't know. The rifle prints 1/2 MOA at 400 meters with just a ye-olde Leupold 2-7x32 so I guess it's not an issue. Of course, there is a focus on rifle fit and shooting consistently each time so if your eye isn't moving around behind the scope, the parallax will be 0. In short: if you're experiencing a parallax issue, it means you need to work on your shooting technique, not spend more $$$ on gear you don't actually need.
I usually change out 3 barrels a year, and have worn out a couple presses. Keep back-up barrels for the rifles I shoot the most, but the rest are on their own. Own a couple of shooting ranges, and a under ground bunker for storing powder. Had more scopes break than anyone deserves.
You're probably right though; I need a 2-7 and more practice.
You're probably right though; I need a 2-7 and more practice.
My old scope didn't allow parallax adjustment for some reason, probably because it's meant for hunting mostly.
It's noticeable since my scope didn't have parallax adjustment. I would try hard to keep my cheek weld between shots but it can be tricky.
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I can easily hit a gong at long range, getting a tight group is different
nowarningshot
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
This, especially for hunting. High magnification makes it look like your really unsteady. But then I'm a hunter, concrete benches, rear bags....etc ......are hard to carry. Really hard to make deer stay still forever like paper targets.
The 1000 yard F Class target is huge, the black bull alone is 3 feet across so you can easily see it with iron sights. The 5 ring is 1 MOA and the V-Bull is only 1/2 MOA.
The human eye is very good at finding the middle of things, so putting a round target inside a aperture front sight and viewing that through a rear aperture works very well. I'd rather do that than shoot a scope with parallax issues, though the real world application is suspect. On my BPCR rifle I usually use a cross-hair insert for the front sight, to allow last second shading.
