LittleBoyLefty
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Republic of Alberta
Absolutely. It’s a simple, but, fantastic tool.
I don’t know if he still does, but John Barsnes use to be a user and promoter.
Scope Reticle Leveling Tool, what works best, does my imaginary tool exist?
- Thread starter dand883
- Start date
Absolutely. It’s a simple, but, fantastic tool.
I don’t know if he still does, but John Barsnes use to be a user and promoter.
Bittereinder
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ontario (GTA)
Just in case it helps newer and more casual scope mounters out there: I just use a padded gun vice/holder (named the "gun grabber") and mostly a regular shop level. First level the top of receiver or tops of bottom rings depending on the gun. Then, I use the shop level balanced on the top scope cap while tightening. This is obviously not perfect but I've never had a problem a scope appearing to be canted. I had always assumed that the top of receiver or rail could be off a bit, but I didn't know that the ring caps are often off by a few degrees as some have mentioned here.
Also, when I say "I've never had a problem", keep in mind that I don't have regular access to a range longer than 50 yards. So, maybe some of my scopes could be slightly canted and it makes no difference for the short ranges I usually shoot, but it could make a difference at several hundred yards or for other more precise applications.
Also, when I say "I've never had a problem", keep in mind that I don't have regular access to a range longer than 50 yards. So, maybe some of my scopes could be slightly canted and it makes no difference for the short ranges I usually shoot, but it could make a difference at several hundred yards or for other more precise applications.
- Location
- Okanagan Valley B.C.
If the top of your action/base have a flat spot directly under the turret housing of your scope, just use shims between them to level the scope to the action/base.
Instead of shims, I use something rectangular and thin like a ruler or a caliper, stuck between them cross-wise, and twist the ruler until it contacts the base flat and housing flat at the same time, achieving parallel, then tighten caps.
Instead of shims, I use something rectangular and thin like a ruler or a caliper, stuck between them cross-wise, and twist the ruler until it contacts the base flat and housing flat at the same time, achieving parallel, then tighten caps.
Agreed — it’s a quick and simple method when the particular situation allows for it. I use a set of aluminum wedges made by Arisaka Defense that more or less does the same thing that you’ve described.
Short video here: https://arisakadefense.com/optic-leveler-combo/
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I have a bore siting instrument that inserts into the muzzle... I installed a level on it... all I have to do is hold the rifle level in a vise... insert the bore sighter, match the scope to it...
It took me quite a while to first set it up and add the bubble level but it has been worth it...
It took me quite a while to first set it up and add the bubble level but it has been worth it...
I own or have used almost all the methods talked about here and have used the shim/ruler under method on my last 2 scopes using feeler gauges and will never go back to any thing else. I used levels and the fancy real avid kit to check them after.
Hollow Point
CGN Regular
- Location
- New Brunswick
I purchased the arisaka model and couldn't use it because I didn't have enough space between the bottom of the scope and the rail. ended up using the old standby plum bob. there is a video review on Ultimate reloader on a scope leveling kit from Short Action customs. it looks pretty good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUXxd1NMRe0
I hear ya. After I got the Arisaka, the very first scope I tried it on was too low. Yes it’s quick and simple, but only when the particular situation allows for it. It also levels to the scope and not to the reticle, so there’s an assumption being made.
I like that Short Action Customs kit you mentioned. It reminds me of the Badger Ordnance Dead Level — looks to be using the same basic principle. Both also level to the reticle and not to the scope body — both look to be dead-on precise.
Skip the Wheeler level or similar products.
1. Use a bubble level to draw a horizontal line on my fence.
2. Mount and lap the rings, if required.
3. Without a fully adjustable vice, I use a bipod with a locking lever.
4. Mini bubble level on the flat top receiver, or balanced on the mounted bases or pic rail, or balanced on the lower half of one piece rings.
5. Once levelled, lock the bipod in place.
6. Mount lower rings if not already done.
7. Place scope onto lower rings. Attach top half of rings and tighten screws enough to be tight but loose enough that stop can be turned if necessary.
8. Raise the butt using multiple levels of books followed by paper to completely to align with horizontal marker on the fence.
9. Rotate the scope to align the horizontal reticle bar with the line on the fence. Slowly tighten the screws on the rings. Check alignment with reticle and fence line every half turn until tight.
10. Boresight, then hit the range.
1. Use a bubble level to draw a horizontal line on my fence.
2. Mount and lap the rings, if required.
3. Without a fully adjustable vice, I use a bipod with a locking lever.
4. Mini bubble level on the flat top receiver, or balanced on the mounted bases or pic rail, or balanced on the lower half of one piece rings.
5. Once levelled, lock the bipod in place.
6. Mount lower rings if not already done.
7. Place scope onto lower rings. Attach top half of rings and tighten screws enough to be tight but loose enough that stop can be turned if necessary.
8. Raise the butt using multiple levels of books followed by paper to completely to align with horizontal marker on the fence.
9. Rotate the scope to align the horizontal reticle bar with the line on the fence. Slowly tighten the screws on the rings. Check alignment with reticle and fence line every half turn until tight.
10. Boresight, then hit the range.
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Arisaka 3 piece jot has worked for me on every set of rings and cantilever mounts. I've had to be creative sometimes to get to at the flat part of the scope body but it's never failed me.
After leveling 9 scopes, I feel like it's more than paid for itself.
After leveling 9 scopes, I feel like it's more than paid for itself.
Just as a side note, I aquired a Musgrave F/TR rifle a while back, with separate scope bases.
The bases are standard bases, so I was just messing with the rifle a bit before I changed it back to its orignal irons configuration.
I had a machinist friend turn a .750 shoulder on the barrel for a spare Mo's front sight, and used the PNW rear sight with a scope base adapter on it.
When I was leveling up with rifle with a torpedo to mount the sights, I noticed that the rear scope base was canted a bit from the front! Not much, but enough to be a bit disturbing.
Now, it was not really an issue for the irons , as I just put the rear sight on , and after leveling that first, I then leveled the front sight to it.
Cat
The bases are standard bases, so I was just messing with the rifle a bit before I changed it back to its orignal irons configuration.
I had a machinist friend turn a .750 shoulder on the barrel for a spare Mo's front sight, and used the PNW rear sight with a scope base adapter on it.
When I was leveling up with rifle with a torpedo to mount the sights, I noticed that the rear scope base was canted a bit from the front! Not much, but enough to be a bit disturbing.
Now, it was not really an issue for the irons , as I just put the rear sight on , and after leveling that first, I then leveled the front sight to it.
Cat
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