Scope slipping in rings

[H4831]

ummmmm was that directed at me? Nice story and I am happy your setup worked out for you, I am calling the rings that are on there junk because they obviously aren't working the way they are supposed to and I don't feel like using a pack of rubbers to shim them, I posted on here to ask if anyone has had a problem like this before, I already stated I know #### all about rings and bases and I don't know what brand was on there, so I am asking what is the best and what people recommend, I already called my local gun shop, he is out of Tikka t3 bases in leupold, but told me I could probably get away with a better set of rings on the current bases I have, however I am thinking I should upgrade both cause I would rather not screw around with this setup anymore.

No, I wasn't aiming that at you, or any other individual. It seems that Weaver rings, because they are cheap and common, get trashed more than any other type. It seems on theses threads that an expensive brand of anything is the best/only thing to use. Look at the trend bullets took.
Certainly, those Sako rings carried some prestige and were not cheap, but they simply were not satisfactory. When replaced with Weaaver rings of no prestige and the lowest priced of any major type, they worked flawlessly for a great many years.
There have been many threads on CGN where someone is trashing Weaver mounts. I have used various brands of mounts over the years, but I have always had excellent service from Weaver. The new Weaver rings have four screws, so we don't have the problem of the scope turning while they are tightened.
My remark about what you are calling junk, referred to how often I have heard people run down Weaver, a favourite of mine.

 

[Dogleg]

Leupold PRW or QRW rings will fit the bases you have, and will hold about as good as anything can. Decent rings are so cheap that it just isn't worth fighting with junk.

 

[9mikemike]

The drug stores sell a personal item that men sometimes use, made of a very thin, rubberized material. Cut off a band, narrower than the scope rings, and stretch this over the scope where the rings are.
This has been the traditional method of holding scopes for many years.

You mean the CF personal water carrier (bag).

 

[shoota]

I have decided I am going to replace the base and rings, I am thinking the one piece Talleys or going with optilock because I have heard such good things about them, price is different but I am not that concerned about it I just want to have a nice solid rig, am I really going to notice the extra weight of the optilocks when shooting? and would the optilocks be a more solid setup?

thanks,

 

[Huntin' Gun]

On my T3 I put on Leupold bases and rings. No issues. From the pics, I'd suggest you get some silver colored ones. They'll match the stainless bbl and silver scope better.

 

[blackball]

buy Tikka rings and you will not have a problem any more . cheap rings made from white metal will deform after time or no mater what kind of shim you use . the right tool of the right job . Joe

 

[manbearpig]

I have decided I am going to replace the base and rings, I am thinking the one piece Talleys or going with optilock because I have heard such good things about them, price is different but I am not that concerned about it I just want to have a nice solid rig, am I really going to notice the extra weight of the optilocks when shooting? and would the optilocks be a more solid setup?

thanks,

you cannot go wrong with Talleys. solid, extremely lightweight. if i could go back id replace 3/4 of the various rings/mounts i bought over the years with Talleys (some much more expensive).

 

[janesy]

I installed talleys one pieces on my 700 varmint and I absolutly love them. No more WASTING time with 2pc ring/base combos that are naturally going to move eventually.

I'm pretty sure they make them in silver too..........

 

[woolly]

I have decided I am going to replace the base and rings, I am thinking the one piece Talleys or going with optilock because I have heard such good things about them, price is different but I am not that concerned about it I just want to have a nice solid rig, am I really going to notice the extra weight of the optilocks when shooting? and would the optilocks be a more solid setup?

thanks,

I really like and have great success with Burris Signature Zee rings. They use a nylon type insert and rarely if ever mark a scope. The inserts are available in different offsets so you can "tilt" your scope if needed, for very long range shooting for example, or to correct improperly installed bases.

I used a Ken Farrell base (Picatinny rail) on my Tikka T3 Varmint with the Burris rings mentioned above. Extremely solid mount! I bought the base directly from Ken Farrell. A bit pricey but worth every penny!

 

[6.5 shooter]

no tape

DON'T use tape, when the scope heats up the glue will slide and accuracy will suffer. DO go buy another set of rings and be done...all manufactures can have a bad day, maybe send the rings back to the company, see what they will do for you.
6.5

 

[Calum]

Avoid B square lynx scope rings, I had a pair fail on me resulting in worse cosmetic damage to a scope then you have.

 

[bluestratus]

any good smith can lap the rings for better contact or in extreme cases ream them first, or you could throw them away and buy a new set but you should still lap em

 

[crazy_davey]

Decent rings are so cheap that it just isn't worth fighting with junk.

Exactly!

 

[skit]

locktite the rings to the scope body. works good for me.

 

[BigUglyMan]

I've always used powdered rosin and never, thus far, had a scope move.

 

[blargon]

I'd just throw on a set of Talley LW rings and forget about it.

 

[ciphery]

If the rings you have are the ones you want to keep? Then try the following;
You should be able to see between the two halves of each scope ring when they are tightened on to the scope. If you don't see a little space between top and bottom halves(1/64"-1/16") then all your clamping force is being transmitted to the rings themselves not to the scopes tube.
Also if the screw holes on the rings are blind make sure that the cap screws are not bottoming out.
Check for this by assembling the rings with out a scope and checking to make sure that everything is tight. If not and either a cap is loose or a screw is standing proud then shorten up your screw(s) by threading a nut onto them and then grinding them down a bit. Be sure not shorten it too much and also to lead the thread a bit (angle the circumference of the tip of the screw to make for an easy,straight start) Then remove the nut and check the screws fit in the rings again.
Now that everything is assembled tightly without a scope, an inside measurement can be made with a set of vernier calipers. The vertical measurement should be a few thou less than the horizontal measurement. Now also measure your scope tube. Is the tube smaller than the vertical measurement of the rings? If so sand or file some off the rings upper bearing surface.(Where the top and bottom halves meet and where the screws pas through)by removing material from the uper half you will be preserving the anodizing on the lower half where it is more easily seen but more importantly you will be allowing the scope ring halves to come closer together.
Now if the Dia. of the scope tube is less than the horizontal measurement of the rings you have rings that are too big and should be replaced or could be shimed in a pinch.

If you can see a small space between your top and bottom scope ring halves already and the screws are not bottoming out and it still won't stay put when the gun is fired then try putting a small smudge of red loc-tite on the rings before dropping in the scope. This should take care of your recoil related scope self adjustment issues.
Do use the loc-tite sparingly as a little goes a long way and you don't want to make it permanently affixed to the rings. A couple drops should be plenty.

 

[bluestratus]

well either lap them or buy a new set but do not use excessive clamping force as you will damage the scope which is more money than new rings

 

[ciphery]

any good smith can lap the rings for better contact or in extreme cases ream them first, or you could throw them away and buy a new set but you should still lap em

Bear in mind that while honing or reaming the rings will increase their Dia. If you intend to do this to straighten up,align or de-burr then you first need to shim up the two halves of each ring ( a couple sheets of paper stacked up or thin card such as a cigarette pack). Put the rings in place on the gun and ream the inside of the rings to the Dia. Of your scope tube with an adjustable reamer or individually with a brake cylinder hone.
Once cleaned up and the card or paper shims are removed there will be about 1/32" of space left to clamp with. Extreme care should be taken not to over size the rings by more than a couple of thou.

 

[ciphery]

well either lap them or buy a new set but do not use excessive clamping force as you will damage the scope which is more money than new rings

Thanx I forgot to mention that important caution about not distorting the tube with excessive clamping force.....or with use of rings that are the wrong size. Wich is why its important to measure first.