Scorpio...a cheap gun that I like...sorta...kinda...

jjohnwm

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There are guns that are "cheap" as in "inexpensive"...and there are guns that are "cheap" as in "cheaply made". This gun is both. :)

There was a lot of discussion about the Scorpio .22 bolt gun awhile back; the short-barrel version was on sale pretty cheap at SFRC and other places, and since I like short guns I unbolted/unzipped/un-velcroed my wallet and ordered one. It came quickly, well packaged, good service overall from SFRC. When I opened up the box, I was taken aback by what an ugly little spud it was in person, even more so than it was in pics, but my next impression upon hefting it was "Wow...comfortable!" I'm one of those unfortunate souls who finds guns that look good are usually uncomfortable for me to shoulder and use, while many of the dogs fit me like a glove. This was one of the latter.
scorpio22.jpg

So, in no particular order, here are a few impressions and comments about this thing:

Good - As stated, I find the stock very comfortable to handle and hold. Stock fit is a very personal thing, YMMV obviously.

Bad - As stated...it's ugly with a capital Ugh! This might actually be a benefit in disguise. It looks so bad now that I may play around with painting the stock; can't make it any worse...:)

Indifferent - I have only the one magazine, and have used it for about 200 rounds so far. Bolt operation is neither smooth nor rough, and is already improving noticeably...which I suppose means it was pretty rough to start. Feeding is fairly good, but I've had maybe 4 or 5 fails to feed, with the bullet nose jamming against...not really sure, actually, it just jams at an angle with the bullet nose already entering the chamber. It seems to need a very firm and fast push to function 100%...you can't merely operate the bolt smartly, as many bolt guns require; you need to really ram it hard and fast, to the point where you worry that if one does still jam you will destroy the cartridge. Operated like that, it has never jammed, but needing to do it gorilla-style like that gets old. I'm hoping and assuming that this will improve with use. Extraction has been perfect; ejection is weak...the rounds just sort of fall almost straight down after barely jumping out of the receiver opening...but it has never failed. It isn't confidence-inspiring, but it makes cleaning up the brass mess afterwards very easy.

Indifferent - The trigger is not particularly heavy or light, maybe a couple pounds. It's a wee bit creepy, a wee bit spongy, and really gives you no warning that it's about to trip; not a 2-stage, maybe not even a 1-stage. It isn't horrible, but certainly not great.

Indifferent - Accuracy is okay. Some loads print an inch @ 50 yards, some closer to 1 or even 2 inches. I'm using only standard, hi-vel or standard stuff, no target-grade premium ammo. I have the gun sighted at 50yards and it is quite sufficient for backyard pest use, 50- and 100-yard gongs and spinners and other reactive targets.

Bad - The gun comes with a bulky and unattractive pic rail that attaches with three cross-bolts to the rimfire grooves cut into the top of the receiver. This rail extends back towards the shooter much farther than I need it to, but it doesn't extend far enough to the front for optimum support of larger, longer scopes. I have a long neck and tend to mount scopes further forward than many people, so this criticism might only apply to folks with a similar build. If you are one of the shooters who mount a scope with the eyepiece lens about halfway along the cheekpiece, you'll be fine.
scorpio rail.jpg

The rail is a single solid piece of aluminum, so when the cross-bolts are tightened they are actually flexing the structure of the unit to clamp on the grooves. This is similar to the well-known Burris Zee rings; everybody thinks they're great, but IMHO the idea of making the clamp out of a single rigid piece of metal and then trusting it to flex when the screws are tightened just reeks of "cheap"...both definitions of it. I can't help but think that this receiver...which I assume was always intended for a cheapie utility rifle...could have been made just as inexpensively, or even more so, by just machining the top flat in conjunction with the dovetails, or better still by drilling/tapping the top for some commonly-available Weaver base and foregoing the dovetails altogether. Either route would have been preferable to the one they chose.

But there's more about the optics mounting situation that ain't great. The top of the receiver is not flat, but rather strongly convex, so much so that it has three cross-grooves into which the three clamping screws for the mount must fit. This means the rail must go into that one fixed position. No sweat, I figured...I'll just ditch that big ugly contraption and use standard rimfire rings, right? Nope! The convex upper surface of the receiver prevents most rings of that type from being secured properly; most of them have a flat bottom profile and the receiver hump pushes them so far up that the clamps don't reach the receiver grooves. If you are lucky, or if you happen to have a drawerful of assorted bits'n'pieces of hardware at home, you might find a set of rings that work. In my case, this turned out to be a pair of Millett rimfire rings, whose bottom curvature perfectly matches the receiver top. I was able to mount a nice small Leupold fixed 2.5x compact scope much lower than the OEM rail would have allowed, and also to place it in exactly the correct eye-relief location for me to use.
scorpio scope.jpg

The Really Bad - Anyone who has done any amount of shooting with assorted guns over the years has likely encountered barrels and receivers which disagree about which way they should be pointing. In most cases this is not really noticeable unless you are looking specifically for it, and can usually be compensated for with the scope adjustments. This particular gun is the worst example of this I have ever seen; the barrel and receiver not only disagree, but they aren't even talking to each other. It's instantly visible when you sight down the top of the rifle. I spotted it when I mounted the scope in the Millett rings; these rings clamp from both sides, and so a considerable degree of windage adjustment can be had by tightening/loosening opposite sides of each ring. I had to use this on both rings, moving the front one right and the rear one left, which of course required some ring lapping to seat the scope smoothly without torque. Correctable? Yes, with some effort, but not a sign of quality.

The Good - This is what makes all the other crap less onerous and more easily acceptable: at the price these guns were selling for, you can not only forgive some glitches but in fact I tend to expect them. If you like tinkering, and derive some perverse joy out of trying to turn a sow's ear into a slight less offensive ear from a really nice sow, you might even enjoy the project.

My granddaughters like this gun, and I don't hate it, but...it'll probably stick around for awhile, if for no other reason than the fact that I have lapped the crap out of a pair of scope rings for it, making them useless for anything else. But it is a cool little gun, great for kids, acceptably accurate and functional. I like it, I guess...but I don't love it.
 
Thanks for the in depth report jjohn!

I had the same reaction with the stock, she's not a looker but feels great!

The stocks are pretty stiff as well for a cheap plastic stock, is the barrel/receiver issue you mention also visible looking at the barrel's channel in the stock? Sounds like it would be clearly off to one side and touching the stock, but it also sounds like it's not that obvious?

I have yet to take mine out to longer ranges and try different ammo to see how accurate it is, but shooting CCI quiets at close range it seems on par with most of my other grouse getters.

I used to try and get my scopes as low as possible but then I realized that on many guns higher rings make it so I don't have to drop my head as low and extend my neck as far forward. I've also come to realize that the height over bore thing is not that big of a deal for the shooting I do.

I like the trigger on mine, I did dry fire it a fair bit with spent cases in the chamber while also putting a bit of forward pressure on the firing pin protrusion to break it in a bit faster and while there is still a hair of creep it's pretty nice. Another member here added a trigger over travel stop to his and depending on how well mine shoots I might look at doing that as well.
 
I picked one up not long ago from a fellow CGNer I also have a love hate relationship with it.
Seems smoother than my Savage MRK2 that I had purchased a few years ago (and promptly sold)
Accuracy is good enough for me. I have a vortex diamondback on mine.
Weight is more than I would like for a gun as small as that. And the fact that it's got wonky threads on the barrel is annoying. I bought an adapter and threw a muzzle break on it for looks.
As far as smiles per dollar goes it's pretty good, but if it cost more I'd think it was not worth it.
 
It's not lightweight for it's size that's for sure homslice. Even the action and barrel out of the stock are substantial.
 
there is a very large and long thread on the Scorpio 'long barrel' version. All the tweaks and tricks apply to this shorty. Yes, the trigger can be tuned to have a very crisp pull with little overtravel. I would strongly recommend properly bedding the action and stock which will resolve some issues you are experiencing now.

at the range, try feeding ammo with the barreled action out of the stock (if you have snap caps, then anywhere). I suspect the feeding issues will resolve. That is the one thing all the test rifles have shown... they get the ammo into the chamber very well. Ejection is sometimes not as good but adjustments resolve these issues too.

The ejection is manual so a bit of backwards energy is necessary.. nice in that you can control how far away that case flies. I found the shorty action to be better out of the box vs the long barreled actions.

The action will smooth up tremendously and becomes very smooth and slick. I sped up this process with some fine grit polishing wheels on a dremel. Camming surfaces in the bolt and raceway get some TLC and things move very nicely. Running the action with a flick of the wrist ala biathlon style is possible. Get rid of all the sharp edges everywhere

For the barrel, this action is blessed with easy barrel swaps similar to the CZ457.. problem is it is a unique pattern so a helpful gunsmith or a barrel manf interested in producing prefits would be handy. Given the amount of these rifles I have played with, the actions will make a fantastic base to build an accurate PRS type rifle. I doubt there will be enough demand due to the popularity of other rifles in this game BUT, more parts... more interest.

Yes, the shorty barrels do not shoot as well as the longer options I have tested but it is enough for a plinker.

Jerry
 
Good report,
I see several Euro rifles coming out with a similar looking stock, the vertical grip has its appeal for sure

2 out of 3 mags feed fine for mine, the 3rd mag doesn't like having more than 8 in, but all are still better than the Savage64 ime
luv the metal mags for tweaking to feed properly
 
Jerry, on the end of your rifle in the pic, is that a tuner of sorts or just something to add weight forward?
I have the shortie, and would like to try some sort device out there primarily to add to the overall length
 
Jerry, on the end of your rifle in the pic, is that a tuner of sorts or just something to add weight forward?
I have the shortie, and would like to try some sort device out there primarily to add to the overall length
Looks like a radial brake. I've got a tuner on mine and it definitely "tunes" things in. Below is the beginnings of a group @ 100yrds I shot just starting to mess with mine and CCI blazer. If you're looking for a muzzle device of any type, make sure you get the right threads. The longer barrel ones are 1/2-20 like most European guns are.
 

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I had an old Win BOSS brake that I put on. Heavy enough to work as a tuner and put a bit of weight forward. Yes, the typical thread is a 1/2-20 so be careful when adding a tuner or brake... and definitely check your specific rifle cause specs can change without notice.

Fun rifles

Jerry
 
Looks like a radial brake. I've got a tuner on mine and it definitely "tunes" things in. Below is the beginnings of a group @ 100yrds I shot just starting to mess with mine and CCI blazer. If you're looking for a muzzle device of any type, make sure you get the right threads. The longer barrel ones are 1/2-20 like most European guns are.
The short ones are threaded like that too
 
I had my two youngest granddaughters visiting over the weekend, and the Scorpio got the nod as their first repeating rifle to shoot. They put a bunch of rounds downrange through a Savage Cub that was purchased for their older cousin about 20 years ago, and enjoyed that immensely. But they just about swooned when I brought out the Scorpio; not only does it look "coooool!" but the idea of shooting more than once without needing to manhandle (girlhandle?) another .22 cartridge into place was a revelation for them. Between the two of them another couple hundred rounds went downrange, just about doubling the total round count for the gun. The misfeeds have gone away; the bolt is definitely smoother than it had been new; overall, the gun acquitted itself quite nicely. Length of pull is too long for the girls, but we shot with the rifle clamped into a Bog-branded clamp mounted on a photo tripod so the weight was completely supported. The girls were able to concentrate on sight picture, breathing and trigger squeeze; by the end of the day the older one was manipulating the bolt to eject/reload and then fire like a seasoned pro. The trigger is not the equal of the Accutrigger on the Savage Cub, but it is getting smoother and more predictable than previously.

So there's not many "issues" that I intend to address at all. The feeding problem went away by the simple expedient of shooting the gun 400x; extraction was always been 100% right out of the box; ejection is not as energetic as some guns but has never failed; since new the gun has experienced only one single failure to fire, and that cartridge showed a deep and well-shaped primer strike, so I must blame it on the ammo.

I still think it's ugly, but the girls thought it was great; I may or may not subject it to a DIY paint job.

Bedding? Lol, nope, not for me, not on a gun like this; doesn't sound like fun at all, and that's what a gun like this is all about for me. Maybe bedding would improve accuracy, but the accuracy is already very acceptable for a sow's ear. If I want the precision of a Walther or Anschutz...I'll shoot one of those. This is a cheap plinker, and it's going to remain both cheap and a plinker. That's its charm. :)
 
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...is the barrel/receiver issue you mention also visible looking at the barrel's channel in the stock? Sounds like it would be clearly off to one side and touching the stock, but it also sounds like it's not that obvious?
It is indeed visible from above, but doesn't look hugely worse than many other budget rifles nowadays, rimfire or centerfire. Usually in those cases, the stock is straight and parallel with the receiver, so that if the barrel is swooping off in some other direction it is immediately apparent when compared to the stock.

It looks in this case as though the receiver is also out of whack with the stock. The stock points at 12:00, but the receiver seems to be cocked towards 11:00 while the barrel is sticking out towards 1:00. Even if I bedded the thing, I'd need to hog out some stock material to place bedding, and in the end will still have a receiver and barrel out of whack with one another. If I remove enough material to align the receiver perfectly with the stock, the barrel will be even further out of whack visually. So, I'm just going to leave it as is; the carefully mounted windage-adjustable rings, lapped just enough to hold the scope torque-free, let the gun shoot as well as it needs to.
 
Sometimes the Cheapos are ok... I have, a Canuck 12 ga tactical came with 3 stocks, a custom case & chokes that is really nice and cost $300...recently bought a Rossi 45-70 Marlin knock off @ half current prices and was pretty surprised but pleased to find it is actually better in every area than the real thing. It can be hit or miss as you usually do get what you pay for
 
Probably the high point of Chinese made rifles we have seen. Action is a solid design, trigger is easy to fix. I didn't like the stocks either and sold the one I picked up. Still have a couple NS522, traditional stocks, but soft Chu wood, heavy barrels, shoot quite well.
 
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