Screw in choke tube maintenance

I like an oil if I am changing tubes frequently, but anti-seize lubricant (a lifetime supply can be had at CanTire in the automotive area) if they are only going to be used or removed every 4-5 months. I found it doesn't take very much anti-seize ( or oil) to allow them to be exchanged. The oil is much cleaner, in my opinion, and I have to be careful not to get the anti-seize lubricant all over myself and gear! It is quite messy.

Storage environment (damp - dry, etc) seems to be a factor.

There are many on this forum with more experience than I have, but they might agree that chokes should be re-lubed if they seem dry and difficult to remove, or if water has been a part of the day's experience. They might have more and better info for you. I could be wrong ( for the millionth time!) If you never lube the chokes, you will probably be in trouble eventually.
 
Best to clean the threads (in both choke and barrels) during each cleaning session. High volume range duty may cause a seizure if the areas in question aren't maintained well on a regular basis. Light duties shouldn't bring up such issue.
 
If you start with clean threads in & out, and then oil or grease the threads well, you should never have a problem. Keep it snugged up. The clearances are tight enough that water shouldn't ever get in.
 
Best to clean the threads (in both choke and barrels) during each cleaning session. High volume range duty may cause a seizure if the areas in question aren't maintained well on a regular basis. Light duties shouldn't bring up such issue.

This was my thought as well, but how would one adequately clean the threads inside the barrel? I attempted to clean them with a rag on my finger but couldnt reach them. Could I use a cotton patch over a barrel mop? I'm using Hoppes Teflon choke tube lube right now but may switch to anti sieze.
 
This was my thought as well, but how would one adequately clean the threads inside the barrel? I attempted to clean them with a rag on my finger but couldnt reach them. Could I use a cotton patch over a barrel mop? I'm using Hoppes Teflon choke tube lube right now but may switch to anti sieze.

Admittedly, threads at the bottom of the tube can be a bit of a handicap but not a showstopper by any means.

A method could be to attach a cleaning brush (always use bronze, not steel) to a piece of a 3-part cleaning rod (as example) and clean from the muzzle end by carefully rotating the brush and then flushing out the dirt with an appropriate bore solvent.

Subsequently, wrap a piece of clean cotton patch around a clean bronze brush and repeat the process to wipe out any residue. One could also do the same but from the breech end and with a longer cleaning rod. However, IMO, you have a better "feel" of the chore performed via the muzzle end as long as care is taken so there is no friction by the cleaning rod against the crown or the walls. A coated (or even a wooden) rod works best in every aspect. Personally, I try not to use steel rods as far as possible.

As an afterthought, please ensure that any lube applied inside the bbls do not "creep" downward and eventually seep into the stock.....it won't occur overnight but it will happen during long(er) periods of storage when the firearm is standing (muzzle up) inside the safe. In other words, apply a very light coat of gun oil internally/externally as deemed necessary.
 
Every time after shooting I run a bore snake through the barrel. I then remove tube/s and wipe clean the outside with G-96 or Breakfree or whatever I have. I pay particular attention to the threads. I apply STOS on threads and replace. I do this every time. I rotate a patch inside the bore in the area of threads about every 1000 rounds. I only thoroughly clean inside of tubes before a competition or before I put gun away for a while. There is a tool for cleaning inside thread available from shotgun sport magazine.
Just me, but I pay more attention to the outside of the tube than the inside.
 
I wrap enough rags on a fork handle (i know) to get a tight fit, then I just spin it around from the muzzle end until it's comes out pretty clean. I wipe down the outside of the tube. I put a thin layer food grade grease on the thread, that's it.
 
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