Screws/Plugs for 1301T

Smokinyotes

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I took the pic rail and ghost ring off to mount a strike industries mount and vortex venom red dot. I didn’t want it to co-witness. Does anyone know what size of screws/plugs I need to fill the holes in the top of the action where the ghost ring attached ?
 
If you removed a sight from those holes - the little screws would provide the diameter and threads per inch - is most common now-a-days for scope bases and aperture sights to be provided with either 6-48 screws of sometimes 8-40 screws - unless some Bubba got at it and forced a wrong size or thread in there - then you will have no idea what you need, without re-tapping the hole. Plug screws are available in both sizes - and, of course, some rifles seem to want metric sizes - that is a different nomenclature - need to know outside diameter of screw and distance apart of the threads - so can be like M6-1.0 or M6-1.25 (I'm making that up - I do not know if those are real sizes). In either case, once you get the thread correct, then have to deal with the length - often with a file.
 
For really wonky set-ups, I have made plug screws from screw/bolt that threaded into the hole - it turns out the M1917 used a BA thread for the rear sight spring - so I used that BA screw to "fill the hole" and then dressed it with file and emory cloth. It was too big hole for 6-48 and too small for 8-40 - I was considering to drill and re-tap for 8-40, but some of those receivers were made VERY hard.
 
If they thread in there, you are golden!!! It has been my practise for the past while to put some blue thread locker on them, since some do not appear to have a shoulder and some holes are threaded clear through to air - then I have been trying to get the slots to be North-South on the gun - instead of random ... Guess that I would be relying on the thread locker to hold the screw in place - since there is often no tension to hold it where I want it to be.
 
It seems as if everyone and his brother invented a thread series at one time - can be fussy to get exact percent fit or can ram it in and verify it "fits" in there. Each claims some advantage over others. I have six tap and die sets - that I know of, there are "UNC" and "UNF" threads, then "BA", "Whitworth" (a coarse thread), and "BSF" (a fine thread). Then there is Metric Coarse and Fine - different nomenclature - many seem to also have a "Special Fine Thread" for some sizes. Can drive one to be about batty to be accurate and correct, if you care about thread fill percent - of course, the original Mauser rifle had 55 degree slopes on receiver - most North American machinist will cut barrel tenon to 60 degree slope - and it fits!
 
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