Scuffs & scratches on your Matted scope
- Thread starter DallasBlaine
- Start date
303EppsFan
CGN Regular
- Location
- Almonte,Ontario
My son had a newly mounted Bushnell 10X mildot on his Rem 788 .222 Rem. He slipped on an icy step and dragged the rifle and scope across the rough edge of the concrete step!
As the stock is not walnut anyway and he is young and likes camo, we just had the gun and scope hydro dipped in winter camo pattern.
As the stock is not walnut anyway and he is young and likes camo, we just had the gun and scope hydro dipped in winter camo pattern.
I mix up some matte black 2-part epoxy paint and dab it onto (into) the scratch or chip with a small instrument like a toothpick. Wait until it's partly dry (5-10 minutes) and start tapping the paint lightly with a bare finger until it levels nicely inside the blemish. If you get any paint on your finger, it hasn't cured enough and you'll have to wait longer before tapping on the paint. Let the paint cure for another 5-10 minutes, then lightly rub it with a wet magic eraser until it's level with the original paint around it. At this point, the filled crack is smooth but dull, so once again start tapping the surface with a bare finger (more pressure this time, and may require pressing) to achieve the matte look again. This method works great.
DallasBlaine
CGN Regular
Not that I scratch up my optics, just when you see what you like on the EE, seeing it is scratched up that's all.
mebiuspower
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Morontario
According to TacOrd, scopes can be cerakoted.
I don't know about that... there are some eye-poppingly expensive scope rings that tighten with six #6 or #8 screws. Crank those down and you're getting ring marks.
It's stupidity really. As if more screws is more tacticaller-like.
Hmm that's an interesting consideration. Of course you want to use a torque screwdriver to make sure things aren't over-tightened.
Let's say each #8 screw is tightened to 15 inlbs, that's something around 500 lbs of force. The more screws, the more total force, but if we think about pressure (force divided by area) then more clamping screws should be ok as long as the clamping area of the rings is correspondingly larger. However if things are misaligned, that greater total force (from having more clamping screws) could all come down on a small area and cause a ring mark.
The advantage of course to a larger clamping area at the same pressure is that you get a better grip on the scope.
If things are well-aligned, with either a quality unimount, or quality rings on a quality base, one shouldn't get ring marks. I used to use Burris Sig Zee rings which of course are super gentle on scopes. Then I switched to ATRS rings, mounted to an ATRS base and to DLASK 10/22 receivers with integral rail, and I never saw ring marks. Now I'm switching to Badger and Spuhr unimounts for more flexibility.
If the scratches on a matte scope are not down to the metal we often use Flitz to polish out the scratch. Be careful not to just polish the area of the scratch as it will show up as a shiny spot. The best way is to have the scope in hand, and with a little bit of Flitz spread on a soft cloth (micro fiber) and to slowly polish the scratch area and all the area around it. You will be surprised what scratches will be minimized or often completely removed. Remember go slow and polish all around. Phil.
- Location
- West Quebec
Nice tip..tks
- Location
- Richmond, BC
