Seeking advice

jmichelin84

jmichelin84

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Big Land, nL
Hello all, I'm looking for one of those kits that has a saw, the gut hook and a few knives in it.
Last time I went moose hunting I had difficulty getting the rib cage split I did not have the proper tools, any one got advice on where to get a set or what I should have?
 
jmichelin84 said:
Hello all, I'm looking for one of those kits that has a saw, the gut hook and a few knives in it.
Last time I went moose hunting I had difficulty getting the rib cage split I did not have the proper tools, any one got advice on where to get a set or what I should have?
Click to expand...

The rib cage of a moose can be easily split by simply removing the brisket. The brisket can be easily removed with an ordinary hunting knife by cutting the easily located connective tissue between the ribs and the brisket. No saw needed at all. We never use one.

I have actually done it with an ordinary folding blade knife on a few occasions.
Ted
 
Saws have different kinds of teeth. I don’t know their proper names, so I’ll make some up.

Chisels: Looks like a row of small chisels being pushed one after the other over the bottom of the cut. Used for ripping saws.

Knives: Looks like a row of small knives being run alternating along the left and right sides of the cut. Used to sever fibres for cross-cut.

Scrapers: Looks like a hook being dragged along the bottom of the cut to pick out the fibres severed by the knives. Used for cross cut.

Mostly useless: Looks like two rows of spikes running alternately along the sides of the blade. Easy to make and looks cool. Cuts almost nothing.

Reason I say this is because the nice kit a fellow I knew had spent good money on a couple of years ago came with a neat-o folding saw that had the mostly useless tooth pattern. It looked good, but it his energetic sawing efforts did nothing. The points grooved themselves into the bone/cartilage and then it glided along on the inter-tooth area.

So check out the teeth. If it doesn’t have either a chisel pattern, or a combined knife/scraper set it may disappoint you.

+1 on the sharp hatchet. I forged one up years ago out of a 16oz hammer and part of a leaf spring that slices up meat and bone disturbingly well.

2 thwacks. Sternum cut.
3 thwacks. Pelvis cut.
30 seconds to go down the middle of the spine.

So...much...blood.

Makes it harder to suspend disbelief when watching the cheesy movie sword fights. They just don’t capture the ringing clank of steel on bone, or the rippling jerk of structural severance.

And it’s handy for general wood-play. The cross handle allows a degree of edge control impossible to achieve with a knife.
 
Rayleigh_Scattering said:
Saws have different kinds of teeth. I don’t know their proper names, so I’ll make some up.

Chisels: Looks like a row of small chisels being pushed one after the other over the bottom of the cut. Used for ripping saws.

Knives: Looks like a row of small knives being run alternating along the left and right sides of the cut. Used to sever fibres for cross-cut.

Scrapers: Looks like a hook being dragged along the bottom of the cut to pick out the fibres severed by the knives. Used for cross cut.

Mostly useless: Looks like two rows of spikes running alternately along the sides of the blade. Easy to make and looks cool. Cuts almost nothing.

Reason I say this is because the nice kit a fellow I knew had spent good money on a couple of years ago came with a neat-o folding saw that had the mostly useless tooth pattern. It looked good, but it his energetic sawing efforts did nothing. The points grooved themselves into the bone/cartilage and then it glided along on the inter-tooth area.

So check out the teeth. If it doesn’t have either a chisel pattern, or a combined knife/scraper set it may disappoint you.

+1 on the sharp hatchet. I forged one up years ago out of a 16oz hammer and part of a leaf spring that slices up meat and bone disturbingly well.

2 thwacks. Sternum cut.
3 thwacks. Pelvis cut.
30 seconds to go down the middle of the spine.

So...much...blood.

Makes it harder to suspend disbelief when watching the cheesy movie sword fights. They just don’t capture the ringing clank of steel on bone, or the rippling jerk of structural severance.

And it’s handy for general wood-play. The cross handle allows a degree of edge control impossible to achieve with a knife.
Click to expand...

Useless with out pics, we need pics!!!!! Please show us your creation.
 
Rayleigh_Scattering said:
Saws have different kinds of teeth. I don’t know their proper names, so I’ll make some up.

Chisels: Looks like a row of small chisels being pushed one after the other over the bottom of the cut. Used for ripping saws.

Knives: Looks like a row of small knives being run alternating along the left and right sides of the cut. Used to sever fibres for cross-cut.

Scrapers: Looks like a hook being dragged along the bottom of the cut to pick out the fibres severed by the knives. Used for cross cut.

Mostly useless: Looks like two rows of spikes running alternately along the sides of the blade. Easy to make and looks cool. Cuts almost nothing.

Reason I say this is because the nice kit a fellow I knew had spent good money on a couple of years ago came with a neat-o folding saw that had the mostly useless tooth pattern. It looked good, but it his energetic sawing efforts did nothing. The points grooved themselves into the bone/cartilage and then it glided along on the inter-tooth area.

So check out the teeth. If it doesn’t have either a chisel pattern, or a combined knife/scraper set it may disappoint you.

+1 on the sharp hatchet. I forged one up years ago out of a 16oz hammer and part of a leaf spring that slices up meat and bone disturbingly well.

2 thwacks. Sternum cut.
3 thwacks. Pelvis cut.
30 seconds to go down the middle of the spine.

So...much...blood.

Makes it harder to suspend disbelief when watching the cheesy movie sword fights. They just don’t capture the ringing clank of steel on bone, or the rippling jerk of structural severance.

And it’s handy for general wood-play. The cross handle allows a degree of edge control impossible to achieve with a knife.
Click to expand...

Useless with out pics, we need pics! Please show us your creation.
 
I have carried a Stanley brand hollow handle drywall saw for many years. It uses Sawzall blades and they switch out with a turn of a screw. Rip teeth for aggressive heavy cutting, and crosscut for more fine bones. If you snap one, the stub is still good for some work, and another blade is cheap. The other saw I've carried is a tree pruning handsaw in a hard scabbard. Less handy, but more robust than the Stanley.

There are "hunting hatchets" sold for your purposes, and some are very lightweight. I was looking on line at a sponsor's site and they offer 2lb and 3lb Canadian made axes with hickory handles for less than $50 including head cover. The trouble with one of those is, you will get more tired moving through the bush with an axe lugging more weight than a handsaw.
 
Always bring my impact guns moose hunting so I ended up buying a sawzall (Milwaukee) so I can use same batteries.

Makes short work of a moose and it has come in handy for cutting branches off towing it out, lighter than hauling the chain saw back to the kill site
 
^^^^^ I've been told that running frozen fish through a bandsaw is a bad idea. I'm going to guess, chainsawing a moose carcass is just as reckless.
 
Even better than the Milwaukee Sawzall (which is very good) is the one handed M18 Hackzall.
I find it much lighter and easier to control when splitting backbone on moose and elk.

If you need a saw in your carry kit for field dressing check out the Wyoming saw
https://www.wyomingknife.com/saws.htm
I've carried one of those for many years and it has served well.
 
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