Seized Choke Tube

Suther said:
Thats a hard one to say. On the one hand, if its just rusty (which was my issue) then you probably won't hurt anything using a good deal of force. Mine was stiff the whole way out, even once it get free'd up there was enough rust build up that there was a lot of friction still.

On the other, if it is cross-threaded, you might hurt something. That said, if its cross threaded, what else are you going to do? Just leave it? Its not like you can really tell if its cross threaded or not without removing it?
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It went in finger tight, and I only snugged it at the range with the tool to make sure it was not loose. It is definitely not rusted. I could have maybe loosened and the force of the shot cause it to skip a thread? I might try with the vice a little bit, but I'll pick up some better penetrating oil and let it sit at least overnight first.

BTW: Is transmission oil considered a good penetrating oil? I've seen it used for cleaning before, but not sure.
 
AdamRoby said:
It went in finger tight, and I only snugged it at the range with the tool to make sure it was not loose. It is definitely not rusted. I could have maybe loosened and the force of the shot cause it to skip a thread? I might try with the vice a little bit, but I'll pick up some better penetrating oil and let it sit at least overnight first.

BTW: Is transmission oil considered a good penetrating oil? I've seen it used for cleaning before, but not sure.
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If you're certain rust isn't the issue, what are you trying to achieve with penetrating oil? That won't solve a cross-threaded issue.
 
Suther said:
If you're certain rust isn't the issue, what are you trying to achieve with penetrating oil? That won't solve a cross-threaded issue.
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Let me clarify, I am also "sure" it is not cross threaded... but I could be wrong in both cases.
The shotgun is brand new out of the box. It looks and smell brand new. The choke screwed in with my fingers, no chance of that if it were cross threaded.
My local gun shop told that if I did not clean off the manufacturer's original shipping/storage oil (which is the case) and I did not put any thread anti-seize (which is the case), then likely that coat of oil would have cooked the choke into place, and that is what the penetrating oil is trying to solve.

In reality, I have no clue why it's stuck. This is my first shotgun ever, I have zero experience, hence why I started this thread, to ask for advice from you all.
 
You didnt cross thread it. I doubt it is carbon fouled from packing grease - the barrel cant possibly get that hot. As stated previously, it is likely swollen from firing. If the choke steel is relatively soft, then it yields slightly upon firing. If you cant muscle it out with a good wrench and penetrating oil, then its off to the gunsmith.
Finally, choke threads are very fine. They can be very easily damaged by overtightening, which I suspect is the most common reason they get stuck. They need not be tightened more than finger tight.
 
Brybenn is likely right. The choke likely expanded and is now tighter then it was intended to be. Lots of good info here regarding penetrating oils and methods to try to get it out. OP...do yourself a favour and ditch the stamped metal key. Buy a proper choke wrench that engages all the notches and save yourself some stress.
 
1963beretta said:
Brybenn is likely right. The choke likely expanded and is now tighter then it was intended to be. Lots of good info here regarding penetrating oils and methods to try to get it out. OP...do yourself a favour and ditch the stamped metal key. Buy a proper choke wrench that engages all the notches and save yourself some stress.
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Do you have any suggestions on a better wrench that works with a choke that only has two notches? I've seen ones that engage 4 notches, or ones that friction fit inside the choke, but the 4 notch style definitely won't work, and I wouldn't expect the friction fit style to be any use either? The OP said his chokes only have two notches, and the turkish chokes I have for two different shotguns also have only 2 slots each.
 
Here's what another one of my chokes look like, along with the tool.
wPJhEGk.jpg
 
AdamRoby said:
Here's what another one of my chokes look like, along with the tool.
wPJhEGk.jpg
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Fancy! Mine don't even have the plastic on the handle. lol

OP do you know what style of choke it is? Both of my turkish guns use Invector chokes, but I know some also use Optima chokes... Looks like Invector to me, but all my guns use that style (including my mossbergs) so its the only one I am particularly familiar with.
 
Unfortunately not. I've been asking on forums, sent emails to Hunt Group in Turkey, no replies.
My local shop doesn't know the brand at all, but offered me to bring in the shotgun and they would have a look to see what's compatible.
If I can get this one out without causing any damage to the barrel, I will look for a good quality choke with 4 slots and buy the tool at the same time.
 
Soak it overnight in a better oil, heat gun letting it cool and re heat will get the oil to creep deeper. Keep working it in and out till it comes out, I had one get semi stuck and it came out with some light force. I forgot to grease it initially and shot it for a bit then had an oh crap moment when I realized I didn’t grease the threads. Comes out easy now that it’s lived up with anti seize.
 
AdamRoby said:
Unfortunately not. I've been asking on forums, sent emails to Hunt Group in Turkey, no replies.
My local shop doesn't know the brand at all, but offered me to bring in the shotgun and they would have a look to see what's compatible.
If I can get this one out without causing any damage to the barrel, I will look for a good quality choke with 4 slots and buy the tool at the same time.
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Honestly, I don't see the tool as being a big issue. Yes, other tools may be better, but if you put anti seize on your choke tube and don't over-tighten it then it shouldn't really matter what you're using. The only time you'd need a "better" wrench is if something has gone wrong. Anti seize really makes a world of difference for chokes.

The day that I got my stuck tube out I went to Lordco and bought a stick of anti-seize. It looks like a gluestick, except its a grey semi-shiny paste inside, cost about $10 IIRC. There is probably cheaper options, but this stuff is super convenient. It now lives in the ammo can that goes with me to the range.

Do you have calipers? can you take some measurements of one of the chokes? Overall length, length from base to bottom of threads, length from base to top of threads, length from top of threads to end of choke. I can compare with what I've got and let you know if it matches the invector chokes I have.
 
after soaking, cool the inside and heat the outside. Wet a cloth, twist it into the barrel and then freeze it after its sized. Then stick it in the barrel after its frozen and apply heat to the barrel outside. Even a hair drier should produce sufficient heat (and not hurt the sight). then do the wiggle that was mentioned earlier in the string. I've seen this method used to break pipe joins (on a much larger scale). Likely do after you've followed some of the soaking ideas above.
 
i had an older Remington shotgun and the stock was seized on. i poured all manner of penetrating oils down the bolt hole with no luck. i gave up only to find the stock had worked loose about six months later.some times it takes a while to work.
 
Haha... I really don't want to wait that long, April 30th is opening day for turkey hunting.
I bought some Seafoam penetrating oil, only thing they had at my local CanTire store.
It's sitting now. I'm still looking for my old hair dryer, wife won't let me use hers. I might have to wait for her to fall asleep. :)
 
If you can turn it a bit, after the soak get to working it back and forth. A fair bit of torque may be required and i have a twisted flat wrench to prove it and it had a 10 inch adjustable for leverage.
My experience is the turkish chokes are hit and miss. Full choke, 20 ga, #4 buckshot, maybe 40 rounds and it was all I could do to get the choke out and it came hard all the way. Barrel was fine, choke was f%%%ked.
I have two 20 ga, same chokes but one set will not thread in the other gun as there is 10 thou difference on the thread.
My solution buy some Diana grade invectors and they will work in whatever gun needed and no swelling/laminating issue.
Good luck and don't be afraid to give it a little English. Working it back and forth is the key.
 
A tough one. Agreed to use a proper penetrating oil- WD40 is good for a lot of things but a real penetrating oil will be better. I'd also suggest heat (propane torch). Get some heat cycles into it and try to turn it when it is hot. It sounds galled or cross-threaded. If the threads weren't cut deep enough it would potentially jam up like this. A bit of heat on the barrel will expand it a bit more and maybe give you some more clearance. Try not to jam it too hard. A hair dryer isn't likely enough- do you have a heat gun? Propane torch would be best.
 
You tightened it at that range ? Any chance that was after putting a few rounds down and the barrel was warm? I have had a couple tight ones. I have just gone out to the wood pile. 6-10 quick rounds. Chokes seem to free right up. Every time I pull a shotgun out of the safe I stick my finger in the barrel. Break the choke loose. Tighten back up. Only with a finger inside. The only stuck ones I have had are from mud and water in the end. Not cleaned proper and put back in the safe. Or used guns I have picked up. If I had a realy stuck one I would try the boiling water method. Have an ice cube that fits I inside the choke. Let the barrel heat up a bit in water. Slide the ice cube inside the barrel. Try and shrink the choke tube by chilling it. Good luck.
 
Well, I finally got her out. I was using a hair dryer because I couldn't get the plastic sight off and didn't want it to melt. I whittled down an ice cube and stuffed it into the choke opening as soon as the barrel was too hot to hold. Then I would heat it again, and dip it into the Seafoam penetrating oil for a while. Take a break, come back, tool in the vice, wiggle back and forth. It got a bit easier, but was pretty much a fight right up to the end. Once it was out, I cleaned it as best as I could, cleaned inside the threads of the barrel, and could not get it to go back in. Took out another choke, it screws in perfectly, finger tight, no wiggle. I think the full choke actually expanded (as at least one member said it probably did). What the heck, this thing is designed for 3" shells, I only shot 4 lead turkey loads through it, and this was the result? I think I can visually see where the threads expanded wider. Using a caliper, it seems like there is a 0.09" (0.228 mm) wider section where the shot would first contact the choke. Wow... garbage choke for sure.

Not sure if this will be visible to you:

OGb4d1a.jpg


I will take some measurements for you Suther, to see if they match your invector chokes (my caliper is in inches, is that OK?). I am thinking I might chuck out the remaining 3" turkey loads and just get some standard 2 3/4 hunting shots for the turkeys. Figure it's still safe to buy an extra full choke? It's hard to tell if the threads are damaged inside the barrel, they look OK but... what's the worse that can happen, the choke flies out?

It's hard to see, but I don't see any obvious damage:

EHsclbU.jpg
 
Don't shoot steel shot in a choke any tighter than modified and preferably use an improved cylinder... steel shot does not require as much restriction as lead shot does for good patterns... Full choke tubes are for lead shot not steel...

And lubricate the threads with Anti-Sieze or Never-Seize grease... it should be used on all choke tubes for longer life and fewer problems.
 
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