Setting a GP100 for Lead, Gunsmith needed!

[curseyou]

Canuck 44 I can agree with your assertion that you should check your cylinders for consistency and deal with it accordingly. (Either ream or stop buying Smith and Wesson. ) But that is a scenario you invented. OP presented no such issue and OP presented no problems to indicate as such. His motivation so far was a well respected but not perfect bible of the GP100 by Iowegan.

You answered his question at face value without considering OPs needs or benefits. My advice was to do due dilligence and don't implement solutions looking for problems that may not exist.

We do agree that measurement and testing is a good start. Save the work for what is needed, IF needed.

 

[Canuck44]

curseyou the OP asked for a reason. He may have read where Rugers iften have tight cylinders or he already has measured them and wants to have them reamed. Rather than go on about it is a waste of money or spend money on ammo folks might have just told him where he can get the work done. He didn't ask anyone if it was a good idea or not or if your gun hits fly wings at 50 yards. Since nobody here has a suggestion as to where to go his next best advice is to contact a known retailer which I have done. I would hope someone from Alberta can mention a gunsmith in his Province that can do the work. It doesn't take long to do it and if he intends to shoot lead bullets in the gun having the cylinder throats checked and reamed out to .358 if necessary along with cutting the forcing cone makes perfect sense.

I have no idea what this means "(Either ream or stop buying Smith and Wesson. ) But that is a scenario you invented." He owns a Ruger not a S&W.

You have mentioned Iwoegan names a couple of times. He isn't the first to advise checking Ruger cylinder throats or to suggest reaming them out to .358 or to suggest cutting the forcing cone to 11 degrees. Over the years cylinder throats have always been a major concern for those who own revolvers. Oversize and under sized cylinders are as common as green grass though less so with modern CNC equipment than in the past I would suspect. I will lay this to rest by saying Ruger makes very good and sturdy revolvers. They just have a reputation of requiring some extra TLC ti make them great revolvers.

In any event the OP asked where he could get the work done. If you know let him know. If you don't....

Take Care

Bob

 

[easyrider604]

curseyou the OP asked for a reason. He may have read where Rugers iften have tight cylinders or he already has measured them and wants to have them reamed. Rather than go on about it is a waste of money or spend money on ammo folks might have just told him where he can get the work done. He didn't ask anyone if it was a good idea or not or if your gun hits fly wings at 50 yards. Since nobody here has a suggestion as to where to go his next best advice is to contact a known retailer which I have done. I would hope someone from Alberta can mention a gunsmith in his Province that can do the work. It doesn't take long to do it and if he intends to shoot lead bullets in the gun having the cylinder throats checked and reamed out to .358 if necessary along with cutting the forcing cone makes perfect sense.

I have no idea what this means "(Either ream or stop buying Smith and Wesson. ) But that is a scenario you invented." He owns a Ruger not a S&W.

You have mentioned Iwoegan names a couple of times. He isn't the first to advise checking Ruger cylinder throats or to suggest reaming them out to .358 or to suggest cutting the forcing cone to 11 degrees. Over the years cylinder throats have always been a major concern for those who own revolvers. Oversize and under sized cylinders are as common as green grass though less so with modern CNC equipment than in the past I would suspect. I will lay this to rest by saying Ruger makes very good and sturdy revolvers. They just have a reputation of requiring some extra TLC ti make them great revolvers.

In any event the OP asked where he could get the work done. If you know let him know. If you don't....

Take Care

Bob

Yeah!

 

[lowburb]

To the OP I would call Dianne at P&D Enterprises, they are a sponsor of this site, and ask er if she can direct you to a gunsmith or machinist to do the work for you. You can buy the kits as you noted. Like you, I opted to have my 'smith do it. One has to know ones limitations. There likely is a gunsmith that will do the work for you. I suspect mailing your gun back and forth, if necessary, will cost you more than the work involved. Let us know how you make out.

Take Care

Bob

Thanks Bob. You have provided a wealth of information that I intend to use! I have purchased a couple of handguns from P&D and will give them a call.

Thanks for everyone's concern about me wasting my money... My wife already watches that! heh heh I can't help it. I modify cars, bikes, houses and now, handguns and rifles. If I am going to hand-load lead in search of accuracy, I might as well modify my Ruger to shoot it, the best that it can.

 

[lowburb]

As a follow-up, I just sent the Ruger to Practical Performance in Fort Macleod. It's relatively close, too.

 

[Meroh]

I shoot lots of lead , just the way they where made.

I shoot only lead in my GP 100 4.2" DRG LRN FP (work with speed loaders better than the SWC which I also have shot a lot of); but I load down for PPC; no issues at all. None. Load soft lead with no gas checks to +P and Magnum levels, and you might have some issues. Lead is no big deal to clean up. If you load heavy use copper plate CamPro, still cheap, but no lead or buy Jacketed bullets.

 

[Meroh]

Now I acknowledge that this group was not shot with lead. These are full loads, jacketed 160 gr. shot at 25 yds. However, if the GP100 will do this with jacketed, I am thinking lead rounds should do just as well, especially if they are lead target loads. I have some CamPro plated wad cutters that I am going to try with Bullseye next. Can let you know if interested how they worked out.
If you are going to spend money on the GP100 I would spend it on fibre optic sights. That is the only mod to this revolver and it made a difference. For me, anyway.

I bought a ruger front sigh with a red-orange insert in it. Much better. Rear sight stays as is. Shoots great!

 

[Sharps '74]

I bought a forcing cone kit from Brownells and have used it on a few of my guns that had either a rough or in one case, a badly leaded forcing cone that wouldn't respond to other methods.

The 11* angle seems to be the magic bullet (pardon the pun). You have to be careful as it would be easy to remove too much metal! It cuts!

I first used it on an Army San Marco 1860 .44 Army and the accuracy was definitely improved.