several rifles of the same caliber, one neck sizer. how do you live with them
- Thread starter elker
- Start date
Do you have a neck-sizing die?
I looked for all the most common manufacturers and I could only find the redding below in a series c die set which would be quite expensive
http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/24-rifle-a-handgun-die-sets-series-d
and the RCBS option below as well
https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&langId=en_US&action=ProductDisplay&screenlabel=index&productId=2237
both of these will require more attention then your average LEE collet neck sizing die however LEE doesn't make a die in this caliber. I believe the brass thickness at the neck will need to be the same, so you may have to invest in a case neck turning tool as well to get the results that you want.
I looked for all the most common manufacturers and I could only find the redding below in a series c die set which would be quite expensive
http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/24-rifle-a-handgun-die-sets-series-d
and the RCBS option below as well
https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&langId=en_US&action=ProductDisplay&screenlabel=index&productId=2237
both of these will require more attention then your average LEE collet neck sizing die however LEE doesn't make a die in this caliber. I believe the brass thickness at the neck will need to be the same, so you may have to invest in a case neck turning tool as well to get the results that you want.
turbo_bird
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, BC
You will more than likely have to keep the brass separate for each rifle if you want to neck size only. I don't have multiple rifles in the same caliber that I load for, but friends that don't reload give me brass sometimes, and it has always had to be full length sized before it will fit my rifles. An easy way to keep track would be to mark the case heads with a different colour sharpie for each rifle.
Kristian
Kristian
I have full length die set.I have been checking with tradeex to see if they can order the neck sizer which is out of stock now.
My concern is if I necksize the used case of one rifle, such a cartridge can not be used in another rifle. How to mark those cartridge to be not confused
My concern is if I necksize the used case of one rifle, such a cartridge can not be used in another rifle. How to mark those cartridge to be not confused
You can't just neck size for multiple rifles. You must FL resize or like turbo-bird says, keep the cases fired out of each rifle separate. Felt markers(Sharpie, et al) work well. Mark the case head. Mind you, anywhere on the case will do. Felt markers don't add anything but the mark.
I have several such situations, multiple 243s, 308s, 260s, 30-30s, 32-20, 38-55 and 375s.....etc, etc, etc..........For my lever guns I full length size them all and use the same load in all of them, of the same caliber. For my other CF rifles I have them in MTM boxes marked for which rifle they belong to and I process them as though they were different calibers, never mixing my cases from one rifle to the others in the same cartridge.
I have one interesting anomaly all my 243s have exactly the same headspace. My partial sized cases from my original 243 700 Rem fit every chamber of the 4 or 5, 243s I have, all with a slight bump down on the bolt handle. I always thought this was kinda cool, however they do not use the same loads so they are still kept separate and marked as such.
It doesn't really matter how you do your loading, neck size, partial size, full length size, ammo for every rifle regardless of identical chamberings should be treated as a distinct and separate cartridge. No different than if one was a 308 and the other was a 30-06 and had nothing in common besides bullet dia.
You should also never assume, because you have an outstanding load for a chambering in one rifle, that it will be outstanding in a different rifle of the same chambering or even safe for that matter. Treat every single rifle , even in the same chambering as a separate and distinct firearm, with regards to loading for it, and you will never run into trouble or damage a fine rifle.
I have two mod 86 wins in 33 WCF that will not shoot the same bullet weight (250 gns) to point of aim, one loves the 250 RN Horn, the other shoots it 3 ft high at 100 mtrs and of course does not have enough sight adjustment to bring it to point of aim. The full rifle shoots 200 FTX to point of aim and the light rifle button mag shoots the 250s, same twist barrels, just 2 different rifles I guess.
I have one interesting anomaly all my 243s have exactly the same headspace. My partial sized cases from my original 243 700 Rem fit every chamber of the 4 or 5, 243s I have, all with a slight bump down on the bolt handle. I always thought this was kinda cool, however they do not use the same loads so they are still kept separate and marked as such.
It doesn't really matter how you do your loading, neck size, partial size, full length size, ammo for every rifle regardless of identical chamberings should be treated as a distinct and separate cartridge. No different than if one was a 308 and the other was a 30-06 and had nothing in common besides bullet dia.
You should also never assume, because you have an outstanding load for a chambering in one rifle, that it will be outstanding in a different rifle of the same chambering or even safe for that matter. Treat every single rifle , even in the same chambering as a separate and distinct firearm, with regards to loading for it, and you will never run into trouble or damage a fine rifle.
I have two mod 86 wins in 33 WCF that will not shoot the same bullet weight (250 gns) to point of aim, one loves the 250 RN Horn, the other shoots it 3 ft high at 100 mtrs and of course does not have enough sight adjustment to bring it to point of aim. The full rifle shoots 200 FTX to point of aim and the light rifle button mag shoots the 250s, same twist barrels, just 2 different rifles I guess.
All of my .22 KH's, .260's and .358 Win's were cut with the same respective reamer... should I choose to, I could neck size and use in any of the other guns... but I don't. .. for the reasons mentioned by c-fbmi... I have developed individual loads for each gun and keep the rounds in separate marked MTM boxes.
Good advice. However, I can only have privi brass from Tradeex and I already have many of them.
tylerjwitty
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Ontario
I can imagine old farmers laughing at the simple fact that this is even discussed. " ya know I kill many a deer from shells from tartar hardware silly man "
I'm not sure if I'm on the same page here, but I load 9.3x62mm for a Tikka T3 Hunter, and also for an old Husqvarna. They each have their own particular preference for best results.
I full-length size all new brass, uniform the lengths for the different chambers (cast & measured previosuly), & turn the necks concentric & consistant. Then I fire them in the rifle that I intend to use them in. After that, I neck-size them & keep them separate with ammo for that particular rifle. I only load for the two 9.3x62's (the 9.3x57's are another story), and I keep life simple by using different colour cartridge boxes to separate them by rifle, and also very clearly mark the boxes as to which is which.
Keeping It Simple. Same way I started separating the .45-70 'moose' loads for the Browning 1886 lever, from the BP-loads for the 1873 Springfield Trap-Door. I load for enough firearms of the same or different calibres that simple can be good.
I full-length size all new brass, uniform the lengths for the different chambers (cast & measured previosuly), & turn the necks concentric & consistant. Then I fire them in the rifle that I intend to use them in. After that, I neck-size them & keep them separate with ammo for that particular rifle. I only load for the two 9.3x62's (the 9.3x57's are another story), and I keep life simple by using different colour cartridge boxes to separate them by rifle, and also very clearly mark the boxes as to which is which.
Keeping It Simple. Same way I started separating the .45-70 'moose' loads for the Browning 1886 lever, from the BP-loads for the 1873 Springfield Trap-Door. I load for enough firearms of the same or different calibres that simple can be good.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
If you neck size for your rifle then it may or may not chamber in another rifle. The best way to separate the cases is to use different brands of brass for different rifles. I have 2 45-70s and use cast bullets in both. I use Remington brass for the Rolling Block (with black powder) and nickel plated brass for the 1885 (with lots of 3031). You'd have to be inordinately thick to foul that up. Plus I keep the ammo separate from each other too. Nosler, Prvi, Remington, Hornady and Lapua all offer 366 Wagner brass. I got my Lapua brass from Hirsch Precision.
No need for a neck sizing die. Just adjust the FL sizing die so that it doesn't touch the shoulder. I've been doing that for years and have never used a neck sizer until I bought forester dies for my 300Wm ATRS rifle.
Thank you bum, very interesting read. I will try using full length to neck size my brass. It was the first time I heard of harsh precision . They have lapua brass at a little over a dollar each, so it is a good price. Will have to pick a winner and loser of my rifles. Maybe husky gets prvi,zastava gets lapua. Each batch will be stored in different mtm box.
Perhaps you all could provide some education for me but I never bothered to get neck sizing dies in any caliber though all of mine are different. Hope to add a 9.3x62 some day too.
Why neck size these rounds if you are using them for hunting ? I'm getting .5 MOA consistently from my rifles from the bench with FL sizing. I thought neck sizing was for benchrest guys trying to chase an extra .1 MOA? Don't neck sized cases eventually need to be FL sized anyway? Isn't it a hassle to figure out when? Would you hunt with neck sized brass given some risk it might not chamber?
Don't get me wrong, I'm not questioning your judgement to do what your are doing, just wondering what I might be missing / misunderstanding. I have considered neck sizing for the rifles I only intend to shoot from the bench but wondered about the hassle of them not chambering eventually.
Why neck size these rounds if you are using them for hunting ? I'm getting .5 MOA consistently from my rifles from the bench with FL sizing. I thought neck sizing was for benchrest guys trying to chase an extra .1 MOA? Don't neck sized cases eventually need to be FL sized anyway? Isn't it a hassle to figure out when? Would you hunt with neck sized brass given some risk it might not chamber?
Don't get me wrong, I'm not questioning your judgement to do what your are doing, just wondering what I might be missing / misunderstanding. I have considered neck sizing for the rifles I only intend to shoot from the bench but wondered about the hassle of them not chambering eventually.
...keeping different rifle's brass separate I use sever techniques:
- different MTM boxes (I do this for all duplicate calibres)
- different brass manufacturer (I do this for my LE's)
- different coloured magic marker on the head stamp
...and keep written records of all
- different MTM boxes (I do this for all duplicate calibres)
- different brass manufacturer (I do this for my LE's)
- different coloured magic marker on the head stamp
...and keep written records of all
I'm having some success using the same full length dies for different rifles, but changing which competition shell-holder gets used with which rifle. You don't even need to change the die setting.
Normally I lose my cases to loose primer pockets, so neck sizing is a zero gain. I can load ammo straighter on a FL die than a neck die and can prove that anytime. If neck sized cartridges shoot better in a decent chamber I sure can't prove it. If the chamber is horrendously oversized, or headspace that far over that's a gun problem, not a reloading problem.
Neck sizing can get away from using lube and having to take it off, but that's what tumblers are for.
Normally I lose my cases to loose primer pockets, so neck sizing is a zero gain. I can load ammo straighter on a FL die than a neck die and can prove that anytime. If neck sized cartridges shoot better in a decent chamber I sure can't prove it. If the chamber is horrendously oversized, or headspace that far over that's a gun problem, not a reloading problem.
Neck sizing can get away from using lube and having to take it off, but that's what tumblers are for.
