Shadow SP01 Pre B Disconnector Install

Zee705

Zee705

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I just picked up a pre b disconnector for my Shadow from a site sponsor but it looks like the pin connecting the disconnector and the hammer is pressed in.

I see you can also get the #9 replacement pins but how do I get the original pins out? A hammer and punch feels like I'm going to break something.

Has anyone ever done this upgrade?

Thanks for your input...Cheers

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if you don't have the CZ Custom nylon block for working on CZ's, use a piece of disposable wood. Place the hammer on the wood and use a starter punch to drive break the pin free, then use a 2mm straight punch to drive it out just enough to remove the disco, the pin will be pushed into the wood. The better the wood, the easier it is. You can also use a steel block with a hole in it to receive the pin. Once you've replaced the disco, flip the hammer over and drive the pin back through. You don't need to restake the pin so don't worry about that.
 
Thanks for info, it's much appreciated.

I've had bad luck with pins in the past so I took the easy way out and ordered a competition hammer, strut and 2 more pins from SSS.

Normally I would hammer away but I've gotten gun shy due to my previous bad experience.
 
Thanks for posting this in the first place Zee. I had no idea this was a thing and will look into doing this on my Shadow.

Will putting the new hammer and pre-B disconnector disqualify an SP-01 Shadow from Production Division in IPSC?
 
Come 2019 it won't matter if you use a CZ disco or a Cajun it seems, the part being discussed here is a factory CZ part though, so it's good to go regardless.

The best pins for the new hammer are the Cajun hardened hammer pins, they don't get staked and are a nice tight fit, but easily removed. However, breaking the old pins free is easy to do if you've got a good center punch and a good hammer. If you have access to an arbor press that works too, but even then you sometimes need a hammer to break them free.
 
The CZ Custom block holds the hammer nicely stopping it from flipping around while driving out the pins.
As for staking, I would never bother if you replace pins, especially the Cajun hardened ones. Totally not needed. The biggest reason for staking goes back to the military/police roots of the gun, having small parts that don't fall out easily and get lost during a detail strip of the gun. I know that Angus at CZ Custom says they see hammer pins that come out during the function of the gun, and he's seen a lot more of them me, but in the 400 or so I've worked on, and the 9 I own, I've yet to see it happen once with an unstaked pin (or a staked one either obviously).
 
Slavex said:
The CZ Custom block holds the hammer nicely stopping it from flipping around while driving out the pins.
As for staking, I would never bother if you replace pins, especially the Cajun hardened ones. Totally not needed. The biggest reason for staking goes back to the military/police roots of the gun, having small parts that don't fall out easily and get lost during a detail strip of the gun. I know that Angus at CZ Custom says they see hammer pins that come out during the function of the gun, and he's seen a lot more of them me, but in the 400 or so I've worked on, and the 9 I own, I've yet to see it happen once with an unstaked pin (or a staked one either obviously).
Click to expand...

Very interesting.

Now that I have a second complete hammer/strut/disconnector setup, I'm leaning towards staking them. I can't ever see having to take the assembly apart once it's together....
 
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Slavex said:
The CZ Custom block holds the hammer nicely stopping it from flipping around while driving out the pins.
As for staking, I would never bother if you replace pins, especially the Cajun hardened ones. Totally not needed. The biggest reason for staking goes back to the military/police roots of the gun, having small parts that don't fall out easily and get lost during a detail strip of the gun. I know that Angus at CZ Custom says they see hammer pins that come out during the function of the gun, and he's seen a lot more of them me, but in the 400 or so I've worked on, and the 9 I own, I've yet to see it happen once with an unstaked pin (or a staked one either obviously).
Click to expand...

When I purchased my used CZ. I couldn't even clear the gun when received. Some how one of the pins slid out and locked up the hammer. Would do it frequent if you tilted the gun to the right. To get it to unlock. you needed to store the gun on the left and shake it hoping to slide the pin back in. Now he might have used a good enough pin. But guess must been a CZ custom pin or something in the package so replaced the loose on with this and was tight but not too tight.

I just ordered a bunch of new pins to replace 2 on the hammer and trigger pin.
 
I staked mine using a center punch tool by just punching it near the edge of the pin a few times while it was backed up on my bench vise. I had to fit my Pre-B disco for my Shadow 2 but the reset it nice and short. Now I've gotten so used to how short it is, I started short stroking my Tanfoglio. :p
 
that is very weird, but Angus says he's seen it too, so I guess it does happen, but never happened to me, and I do a lot of trigger jobs, and shoot a little bit lol

OkayShooter said:
When I purchased my used CZ. I couldn't even clear the gun when received. Some how one of the pins slid out and locked up the hammer. Would do it frequent if you tilted the gun to the right. To get it to unlock. you needed to store the gun on the left and shake it hoping to slide the pin back in. Now he might have used a good enough pin. But guess must been a CZ custom pin or something in the package so replaced the loose on with this and was tight but not too tight.

I just ordered a bunch of new pins to replace 2 on the hammer and trigger pin.
Click to expand...
 
I received and installed the new competition hammer/strut and pre-b disconnector last night.... what a difference! The reset is shorter and there's almost zero pre-travel. I would highly recommend this upgrade available from Select Shooting Supplies.
 
Any adjustment on the disconnect? When I installed a pre-b on my 85 Combat, I have to make some adjustments in the inner face of the disconnect. Notice the curved cut on the original disconnect. I have to slowly cut into the inner face of the pre-b disconnect. It was a tedious, 2-3 hrs of grind (Dremel), test fit, grind and test fit until a desirable reset is achieved. I did not replace the oem hammer but most experts suggest the competition hammer is a better fit. BTW, Slavex is a CZ Guru. Lots of information he can share. All we have to do is politely ask. :)


Zee705 said:
I received and installed the new competition hammer/strut and pre-b disconnector last night.... what a difference! The reset is shorter and there's almost zero pre-travel. I would highly recommend this upgrade available from Select Shooting Supplies.
Click to expand...
 
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