Sheared buttstock bolt
- Thread starter Dangerous Breakfast
- Start date
Are you able to weld? If so you can put a large nut over the broken bolt and weld the head of it. It should back right out.
Or if you are really careful with the direction of heat you could heat the bolt, then let the heat transfer into the threads then you can try really tight vice grips and actually try and tighten it tighter before trying to remove.
If you have a mill or are good with a drill press you could drill it out. (Cut it off flat before trying to drill)
But do let it soak with a high quality penetrating oil, something like kroil
Or if you are really careful with the direction of heat you could heat the bolt, then let the heat transfer into the threads then you can try really tight vice grips and actually try and tighten it tighter before trying to remove.
If you have a mill or are good with a drill press you could drill it out. (Cut it off flat before trying to drill)
But do let it soak with a high quality penetrating oil, something like kroil
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Thanks, good range of approaches, Penetrating oil tomorrow AM. Bolts been in there since 1947 so I should not be so suprised it did not want to play nicely
First off, I presume you have removed the butt-stock since the head broke off?
In that case, I would second Evanguy's final sentence. Soak it with a GOOD penetrating oil [if not KROIL, then WALTER BOLT-OUT], for a couple of days.
If you're out in the boonies & don't have the above, presumably you have access to diesel fuel or kerosene & ATF? If so, mix 1/2 & 1/2 & dribble some in there & let sit for a few days. [or turn the receiver upside down & immerse it in the above mixture].
You may also have to resort to the "Heat" Wrench!
In that case, I would second Evanguy's final sentence. Soak it with a GOOD penetrating oil [if not KROIL, then WALTER BOLT-OUT], for a couple of days.
If you're out in the boonies & don't have the above, presumably you have access to diesel fuel or kerosene & ATF? If so, mix 1/2 & 1/2 & dribble some in there & let sit for a few days. [or turn the receiver upside down & immerse it in the above mixture].
You may also have to resort to the "Heat" Wrench!
Mumbles Marble Mouth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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Funny enough, I saw a show that tested the capabilities of different brands of penetrating oil. Kroil actually did the worst across all tests. I've been using Kroil for years removing things like stuck choke tubes so it seems to work just strange it did the worst in all those tests. Heat was the most effective in every single test.
Anyways, Id try cutting a slot into the stud sticking out with a hack saw. Use two blades to cut it wider. Then take a flat head screw driver thats about as wide at the bolt threads and use a crescent wrench on the screw driver shaft to turn it out. However, I suspect it won't be that easy especially of you could spin the head right off the stock bolt trying to get it off. You will likely need heat. Obviously make sure the screw driver you have is a mechanics screw driver and not a carpenters screw driver as the carpenter screw driver will have a round shaft and the mechanics will be square for a cresent wrench to grab onto.
If the bolt turns but its hard to turn then take it slow and avoid using heat. As you turn it, the threads rubbing against each other are creating a lot of friction and heat which will result in the threads thermal locking.
Anyways, Id try cutting a slot into the stud sticking out with a hack saw. Use two blades to cut it wider. Then take a flat head screw driver thats about as wide at the bolt threads and use a crescent wrench on the screw driver shaft to turn it out. However, I suspect it won't be that easy especially of you could spin the head right off the stock bolt trying to get it off. You will likely need heat. Obviously make sure the screw driver you have is a mechanics screw driver and not a carpenters screw driver as the carpenter screw driver will have a round shaft and the mechanics will be square for a cresent wrench to grab onto.
If the bolt turns but its hard to turn then take it slow and avoid using heat. As you turn it, the threads rubbing against each other are creating a lot of friction and heat which will result in the threads thermal locking.
If you have someone tig weld a nut on the stud and immediately try turning it you will get the benefit of heat and a solid grip on the stud. If it breaks loose turn it back and forth in small increments to break the mung free till it turns easily.
fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
Nope...first you drill a drill guide that slips-fits over the broke off bolt and center drill it for a drill guide that holds your twist drill perfectly centered. now drill the bolt center at least deeper than the frame of your shotgun. Now you can cut the excess bolt flush as you will have a centered pilot hole for your drill to follow.
I wouldn't say nope, sure you could do it your way, but it's not needed. I removed hundreds of broken bolts, drill and taps from things over the years at work (manual machinist who fixed other mistakes). But you could use your method if you wish
I didn't mean cut the bolt off flush before working with it I just ment cut it flat to have a flat end to start drilling into. I would also use a mill so I wouldn't need to do all that extra work. I would also start with a center drill from a lathe and if I was using a drill press (I wouldn't be using a drill press)I'd just center punch the center and drill it out then twist the threads out when once I have it opened up to the tap drill size.
Heat, oil and some vice grips that have good bite should do it.
3/8 " is plenty to grab on to with some smaller vice grips.
Letting penetrating oil soak in over night never hurts, and sometimes tapping the end of the broken stud as you turn can help.
If it turns a little bit and gets tight, back and forth is a good technique as previously mentioned and also as mentioned some times you can get it to first move in the "wrong" direction as in tightening.
Welding a nut on is a great way to apply some heat quickly and provide good purchase but likely not necessary as a first step.
3/8 " is plenty to grab on to with some smaller vice grips.
Letting penetrating oil soak in over night never hurts, and sometimes tapping the end of the broken stud as you turn can help.
If it turns a little bit and gets tight, back and forth is a good technique as previously mentioned and also as mentioned some times you can get it to first move in the "wrong" direction as in tightening.
Welding a nut on is a great way to apply some heat quickly and provide good purchase but likely not necessary as a first step.
If the bolt sheared and broke, the threads are seized/rusted very firmly. Trying vice grips will soon wipe out the protruding stub. Give penetrating oils a few days and then heating extremely hot when well soaked before using vise grips and working back and forth a little at a time keeping it wet.
I saw a mechanic suggest getting stuck bolts nice and hot with a torch and melting crayons into the threads recently on youtube.... said it was an old school trick and that the wax penetrated well and lubed things up nicely... might have to throw a few crayons in the tool box and give it a go next time I'm dealing with a stuck bolt.... 
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Like most things the more you do it the better you get and the more tricks and approaches you develop.
Guntech's suggestion of not just ruining the stud with a pair of vice grips is solid.... you want to rely on more then just brute force to break it free hence the oil, heat, vibration and anything else that can help break the bond.
It's easier to shear a long thin bolt with torque then a shorter one, but that doesn't mean it can't be done....
. Like most things the more you do it the better you get and the more tricks and approaches you develop.
Guntech's suggestion of not just ruining the stud with a pair of vice grips is solid.... you want to rely on more then just brute force to break it free hence the oil, heat, vibration and anything else that can help break the bond.
It's easier to shear a long thin bolt with torque then a shorter one, but that doesn't mean it can't be done....
