Shims for loose sight?

COREY

COREY

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
252   0   0
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
I have a sight that is loose on a 1911 and the set screw is stripped (weird metric size that was held in with loctite). Would a steel or aluminum shim under the sight in the dovetail fix this? Was thinking of cutting a piece of beer can to suit (justify drinking another beer :) ).
 
I suspect you're talking about the rear sight???

The easiest fix for this is a hammer and large punch to force the upper part of the female dovetail down and in so doing, apply enough pressure on the male sight dovetail to hold it in place.

I've never seen a 1911 with a set screw to hold the rear sight in place.
 
COREY said:
I have a sight that is loose on a 1911 and the set screw is stripped (weird metric size that was held in with loctite). Would a steel or aluminum shim under the sight in the dovetail fix this? Was thinking of cutting a piece of beer can to suit (justify drinking another beer :) ).
Click to expand...

A shim would be an appropriate (even best) fix for loose dovetails. A set screw can effectively do the same to raise the height to the shoulder of the dovetail within some reason (if it's really loose, a set screw is not going to be sufficient as it is just less contact in mating surface. Thereby torquing heavily to tighten the set screw is just another stripped screw).

Peening as mentioned is another option, if not ideal option.
 
I've used pop can alum as shim material, on sights that were loose.

I would drill and tap the sight to another size setscrew, as well put some shims under.
 
Peening down the top edges of the dovetail cut is one technique. Dimpling the bottom of the dovetail cut in several places with a prick punch will raise the base of the dovetail cut and tighten up the fit of the sight. I've also used the aluminum can shim trick and it worked fine.
 
I prefer to peen the sight rather than the gun.
I would also rethread the sight for a new setscrew.
A shim should work.
I have also soldered a shim to the base of a sight, then refitted it to the dovetail.
 
I pick up cheap feeler gauges for points (old school mechanics) or spark plugs. There are a large variety of strips of metal on them in different thicknesses and you can find the best thickness for a shim. Better than an aluminum beer can of a set thickness.
Of course a rethread of the set screw or other better repairs are preferable.
 
farshot said:
I pick up cheap feeler gauges for points (old school mechanics) or spark plugs. There are a large variety of strips of metal on them in different thicknesses and you can find the best thickness for a shim. Better than an aluminum beer can of a set thickness.
Of course a rethread of the set screw or other better repairs are preferable.
Click to expand...

The feeler gauges is a great idea. Particularly for those of us who might not feel up to threading a set screw.

Where do you find them cheap? Princess Auto, or KMS Tools?
 
tactical lever said:
The feeler gauges is a great idea. Particularly for those of us who might not feel up to threading a set screw.

Where do you find them cheap? Princess Auto, or KMS Tools?
Click to expand...

Amazon has a bunch priced between $10-$20.


As to the OP, since the sight had a setscrew, I'd repair that and use it.
 
Op,
If said sight is of MIM'd construction,do not attempt to retap any hole(s) or prick punch the underside to raise material for a tighter fit in the dovetail.

Aluminum shims &/or epoxy are for 'plumbers fixes.

Install the sight centered in the dovetail & peen the 4 corners of the dovetail lightly w/ a brass punch..DONE.
 
Millet sight has a set screw on one of my 1911 45. It is aftermarket, not factory.
I think I have also seen norinco with a screw, but getting late at night, not sure about that.
It would be some strange metric thread. I don't like punch marks on pistol slides. Depends on the gun, material.
If you had a tap set, I would try running a new thread, in a common size that you can get set screw for.
 
Garage sales, auction junk bins, princess auto used to be cheap - not sure anymore.

Not a lot of call for them these days I dont think.
But they are sure useful. They last a long tme as one does not need much of a shim usually.
 
Princess is $3.99. and they have Quartz radiant heater 1/2 price for $39.99 - I have one 'like' it and it's great for my bsmt workshop. Don't have to heat the whole bsmt, radiant just heats what it 'hits'.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom