Shok buffer

[dearslayer]

Cleaning my Ruger SR1911 .45acp tonight and noticed the Shok Buffer is busted and separated. Should I assume I shouldn't use the gun like this? Is this a factory installed part or perhaps an added after the fact. I'm not the original owner.

 

[hobit]

I wouldn’t reinstall that one and use it but the gun can be shot without as to the best of my knowledge these are/were never factory installed and the opinions on the effectiveness of the buffer seem split.

 

[Paul_T]

The only 'factory' ones I have seen installed are in Wilson Combat's. When mine destroyed itself it never got replaced and the pistol runs just fine.

I certainly would not run a broken one like you have in your picture. Either inspect/replace them every 500-1000 rounds or don't use them at all IMHO.

 

[dearslayer]

Just reading some older post regarding the buffers ( guess I should have done that before posting ) and it seems you are correct about a divided camp. Any idea of the weight of the factory spring in the SR1911? Maybe it might be wise if I replaced it given the fact I have no idea how many rounds the previous owner put through it.

 

[dearslayer]

The only 'factory' ones I have seen installed are in Wilson Combat's. When mine destroyed itself it never got replaced and the pistol runs just fine.

I certainly would not run a broken one like you have in your picture. Either inspect/replace them every 500-1000 rounds or don't use them at all IMHO.

Thanks. Sounds like good advise.

 

[DANS40X]

OP,
The aftermarket buffer is marker Wilson Combat in it's abused/beat up state.
Definitely change the recoil spring since you purchased it used/second hand.
An assortment of recoil springs is available from Wolff in PA to tune the spring to the load that you're shooting.
Standard 1911 45ACP recoil springs for a 5" Bbl/slide are 16ish Lb rated.

I've run dual spring Sprinco Recoil Management Systems in all of my semi auto handguns for 30+ years.
And I run Sprinco buffer/recoil springs in all of my AR15's,AR10's,M1A's,M1 Garands,M1 Carbines.

 

[VICIOUS]

Well HI there. I used to run shock buffer because it felt softer recoil and sounded better to me. Some of my 1911 did not cycle properly due to the space the buffer took up as they are not designed for them.
As to the recoil spring; the hammer spring and the recoil spring work together. I load to a power factor of 150, for wild bunch and IPSC match's. Therefore I use a 19 pound hammer and a 14 or 15 pound recoil spring.
My set up is for less then full power factory loads.
You may wish to replace both springs with a set that is best for the loads you mainly use, factory , reduced or target.

 

[4n2t0]

The buffer is useless, toss it and never look back. Also, I wouldn't change a single spring unless it causes a failure.

 

[hatman1793]

4n2t0 has a point I will reinforce. JMB never envisioned a shok-buff accessory for his iconic design that, in your case, Ruger copied. Millions of 1911’s & 1911A1 pistols fired fine without that little chunk of polymer.

 

[Tokay444]

They come in a pack of 6 because they’re only good for so many hits.
They are very straight forward in their claims.
Prevents the Slide from Battering the Frame During Recoil
Optimum Balance Between Shock Absorption and Longevity
Easily Replaceable
Absorbs Up to 1,000 Rounds of Repeated Firings
Slides Over the Recoil Spring Guide Between Guide and Spring
Original Injection Molded SHOK-BUFF®
Royal Blue and Bears the SHOK-BUFF® Name
Package of 6

The buffer is useless, toss it and never look back. Also, I wouldn't change a single spring unless it causes a failure.

At that point it’s too late.

 

[4n2t0]

At that point it’s too late.

For me it has proven to be the perfect timing. If it works I try not to "fix" it.

 

[Tokay444]

If it stops working when you need it, you might die. Do you change the oil when your engine seizes, or do you do it as preventative maintenance?

 

[dearslayer]

So aside from the buffer ( seems it's necessity is divided ) can someone recommend a different weight of recoil spring to minimize the distance that the cases are ejected! Mine go three stalls over or about 10 to 12 ft away!

 

[4n2t0]

If it stops working when you need it, you might die. Do you change the oil when your engine seizes, or do you do it as preventative maintenance?

Whatever floats you boat, bud. Personally, if it works I try not to "fix" it.

 

[Tokay444]

Don’t fix it until it’s broken. Got it.

 

[ted_dent]

So aside from the buffer ( seems it's necessity is divided ) can someone recommend a different weight of recoil spring to minimize the distance that the cases are ejected! Mine go three stalls over or about 10 to 12 ft away!

Since you are not the original owner you have no idea how many round are through the gun. Judging by the shok buff it's been quite a few. It may well be that if the recoil spring is original it has lost some of it's resistance and needs replacing. That is where I would start. The standard 5" government model 1911 uses a 16 pound recoil spring.

If you put a new 16 pound spring in and you still get excessive case ejection distance you have two alternatives:
1. Change to an 18 pound recoil spring (or heavier if necessary although it should not be unless the factory ammo is extra hot). Just remember that the heavier the spring weight you use the harder it will be to rack the slide and also the harder the slide will return back into battery which increases wear on internal parts. Every solution has down sides.

2. If you reload try reducing your powder charge or switch to a lighter bullet. If you are just target shooting (unless it's something like IPSC where you have to meet a power factor) the bullet only has to be going fast enough to go through a piece of paper so reduced velocities are not an issue. While the slowest velocity with reliable ejection is not always the most accurate you can start low and work your way up till you find that compromise intersection of good accuracy, reduced velocity and consistent ejection which is easier on the gun and easier on the shooter. Very seldom do you have to use maximum velocities to achieve the best accuracy.

 

[easyrider604]

Since you are not the original owner you have no idea how many round are through the gun. Judging by the shok buff it's been quite a few. It may well be that if the recoil spring is original it has lost some of it's resistance and needs replacing. That is where I would start. The standard 5" government model 1911 uses a 16 pound recoil spring.

If you put a new 16 pound spring in and you still get excessive case ejection distance you have two alternatives:
1. Change to an 18 pound recoil spring (or heavier if necessary although it should not be unless the factory ammo is extra hot). Just remember that the heavier the spring weight you use the harder it will be to rack the slide and also the harder the slide will return back into battery which increases wear on internal parts. Every solution has down sides.

2. If you reload try reducing your powder charge or switch to a lighter bullet. If you are just target shooting (unless it's something like IPSC where you have to meet a power factor) the bullet only has to be going fast enough to go through a piece of paper so reduced velocities are not an issue. While the slowest velocity with reliable ejection is not always the most accurate you can start low and work your way up till you find that compromise intersection of good accuracy, reduced velocity and consistent ejection which is easier on the gun and easier on the shooter. Very seldom do you have to use maximum velocities to achieve the best accuracy.

Excellent answer.

So far the focus on spring tuning has been on replacing the recoil spring with a different weight. Only thing I'll add to spring tuning (to slow down a slide) is to try a "square bottom or small radius" Firing Pin Stop. I haven't personally tried it but there are lots of posts in different forums that praise its benefits.

For example, without using a higher than standard power spring, say from 16 to 18 lbs/in spring (which will result in #1 answer above), a smaller radius or square bottom firing pin stop will slow down the rearward movement of the slide. This is an almost latent feature of the firing pin stop, which is the ability to tune or adjust slide velocity. The radius, or lack of it, slows down the slide because the square bottom will have less leverage to push back the hammer to #### it. John Moses Browning of course knew this.

You can also play with the radius as well, of course filing the radius is a non-reversible process, so go easy on the file. The larger the larger the radius, the faster the slide velocity.

 

[Milofficer]

The buffer is useless, toss it and never look back. Also, I wouldn't change a single spring unless it causes a failure.

You can do as you please with your own firearms, but I strongly suggest that people follow the manufacturer's recommendations for replacement of recoil springs.

They are a wear item and have a finite lifespan. Failure to replace the recoil spring will only accelerate wear and tear on the operating parts of your pistol or rifle. Sometimes it means you'll encounter stoppages. Sometimes it means you'll break a slide stop or locking block. Other times it means you will crack your frame or slide, which means you have an extremely costly replacement or repair on your hands, all because you didn't replace a 5-20$ spring.

 

[gdawg]

So far the focus on spring tuning has been on replacing the recoil spring with a different weight. Only thing I'll add to spring tuning (to slow down a slide) is to try a "square bottom or small radius" Firing Pin Stop. I haven't personally tried it but there are lots of posts in different forums that praise its benefits.

For example, without using a higher than standard power spring, say from 16 to 18 lbs/in spring (which will result in #1 answer above), a smaller radius or square bottom firing pin stop will slow down the rearward movement of the slide. This is an almost latent feature of the firing pin stop, which is the ability to tune or adjust slide velocity. The radius, or lack of it, slows down the slide because the square bottom will have less leverage to push back the hammer to #### it. John Moses Browning of course knew this.

This is very good info and is a universal recommendation by many guys running 10mm 1911s. The flat bottom pin stop (sometimes combined with stronger mainspring) seems to be the first recommendation before upping the recoil spring. An excessively strong recoil spring also brings problems - barrel feet can sheer off.

I have no issues with buffers and use/used them for 10mm just cause, but from what I've heard, the 1911 design is more than enough to handle typical 45 acp. Apparently, a 1911 can even be fired extensively without a recoil spring and not get damaged.

Also for springs, you can pick up a pack of variable springs with different weights from Wolf and that is an easy way to fine tune to get the characteristics you want