Shooting long range.

T

TACTICOOL91

Member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Toronto, Ontario
Hey there. I've recently been interested in long range shooting and like most, I'm looking for advice!
I want to buy a rifle I can grow with. I've looked at the Remington 700 (varmint) 5R. I'm not looking to spend a million dollars and like I mention would like to grow with he rifle and customize it over time. I noticed the tikka tactical A1 and fell in love ! That being said, its way too expensive for me.
 
I have at tikka varmint 22-250 a friend has a 700 varmint in 22-250 both out of the box we tried pretty much everything there is to by in ammo, the tikka out shot it with them all.
 
my first rifle was a remington 700 5r in 308 win, 24" barrel. That thing was a tack driver, 0.63" group at 100m with factory match ammo on my 2nd outing.
 
25-50 fps/inch velocity loss/gain depending on the barrel. The shorter the barrel the less velocity. There is a reason long range shooters use 28-30+ inch barrels. This might not make a huge difference at short range out to 600 yards, but when you get out to 800-1000 yards, you want as much velocity as you can get.
 
TACTICOOL91 said:
Does the 24" barrel over the 20" make a huge difference?
Click to expand...

Not really, I had originally wanted 20" but got a deal from the EE on a 24" model with a timney trigger and bell and Carlson stock.

Right now my rifle has a 22" barrel and is dead accurate to 600 m. It's a little boring to shoot lol
 
bsand said:
Not really, I had originally wanted 20" but got a deal from the EE on a 24" model with a timney trigger and bell and Carlson stock.

Right now my rifle has a 22" barrel and is dead accurate to 600 m. It's a little boring to shoot lol
Click to expand...

You need smaller targets or windier days. That fixes up the boring part. I find that once the wind is figured out there is little to be learned by bashing the same gong 100 times in a row, so I'll switch distances, directions and rifles and take a crack at solving a different problem, hopefully on the first shot.
 
Dogleg said:
You need smaller targets or windier days. That fixes up the boring part. I find that once the wind is figured out there is little to be learned by bashing the same gong 100 times in a row, so I'll switch distances, directions and rifles and take a crack at solving a different problem, hopefully on the first shot.
Click to expand...

Which was why I switched to shooting PRS style. Getting up off the belly into improvised positions. Now that is challenging.
 
There are lots of options out there for Tikka now as well. It may take a more time to find them but in terms of stocks/chassis/accessories you are good to go with a Tikka.

The following will be painful advice to follow but I really wish I listened when I started shooting. Save up the pennies and buy what you really want. A Tikka A1 can be found for $2,500. A M700 is $800, but then you will upgrade the stock ($400-$1,250), buy a new trigger ($100+), get a DBM ($250 ish) and probably a new barrel at some point as well ($1,000 by the time you get it chambered and cerakoted). Finally, if you really want something, that itch won't go away until it is scratched.
 
bsand said:
Hitting 1 moa targets all day long at 600 m gets boring lol. It's too easy with my current rifle. Gotta make things interesting after a while.
Click to expand...

You need to take the scope off, put some iron sights on and shoot without a front rest, jacket and sling only. Of course the bull is double the size, so let me know how you make out.lol
 
bsand said:
Hitting 1 moa targets all day long at 600 m gets boring lol. It's too easy with my current rifle. Gotta make things interesting after a while.
Click to expand...

You need to stop shooting in a tunnel ;)

At 600m, with a .308, every 1km/h of wind is approx 2" of drift, so if you're off by 1.5-2km on your wind call, you won't be hitting that 6" gong much, eh?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom