Shooting long range.

Ya I'm calling BS on BOB Lee here till I see proof of moa all day at 600m.

Well considering last bcra champs, I did hit 100 point 600m cold bore shot. The did win the steel challenge after the bcra champs as well. Those were 6" plates at 600m. One shot one hit ;) held dead center the entire time too.

Other than that I don't really have any proof, nor do I care enough to prove it.
 
One shot is hardly shooting moa all day at 600m but good on ya champ!

That was just what I could 'prove' my bush sessions were not recorded. But 100 rounds hitting the same gong all the time does get boring. I can easily hold 3/4 moa at 300y all day long and sometimes break 1/2 moa with 10 rounds.

I actually haven't touched my DT in 6+ month, too busy with uspsa.
 
I'm very happy for you, but that's still not holding moa at 600 all day. They are your words not mine. I know a lot of great shooters and not one of them can hold 1 moa at 600 all day.
 
Shooting a moa group at distance (I've got a picture of a 10 round moa group I shot at 840 yrds, doesn't mean I can do it all day) once you've doped the wind is not the same as being able to tee off a moa sized target "all day long" ie at will. Anyways, this is a useless pissing match.

Sorry for the hijack OP. I'd say that Rem 700 5R would make a fine rifle for getting into long range shooting. As would the Tikka or a Savage as well. This is a topic that comes up once a week or so. Do a search and then do some digging about a few different models that interest you and are in your price range. Although they're quite prevalent, I'd suggest you stay away from the 20" barrels and instead go for something longer like a 24" if you're ultimate goal is to shoot long range. There's nothing "wrong" with a 20" .308 (I have one that I routinely shoot out to 1000+yards but I also just had a new rig built with a 26" barrel) but the extra velocity that you gain with a longer barrel helps at distance. Whatever you get (if it's a .308) make sure you have a 1/10 twist barrel so that you can stabilise the heavier pills as that's what you'll want to be shooting at distance. Good luck and enjoy!
 
Hey there. I've recently been interested in long range shooting and like most, I'm looking for advice!
I want to buy a rifle I can grow with. I've looked at the Remington 700 (varmint) 5R. I'm not looking to spend a million dollars and like I mention would like to grow with he rifle and customize it over time. I noticed the tikka tactical A1 and fell in love ! That being said, its way too expensive for me.

Given that you live in TO, your long range shooting opportunities are going to be more limited than it is for those of us who have access to the wide open spaces out west, or the even more wide open spaces in the arctic and subarctic. I get that cost is a factor in your choice of rifle, and believe me, I sympathize. But long shooting is an expensive game, and riflemen quickly discover that rifle cost is secondary to the cost of optics, mounts, ammunition (factory or components and handloading tools and accessories) chronograph, rangefinder, a Kestrel, and the cost of regularly getting to and from your shooting area. The best advice in choosing a rifle is to buy once, cry once, but the Remington is a solid choice, and can be customized to meet your needs over time.

Try not to skimp on glass; you don't have to go the Nightforce/S&B/US Optics route, but according to Nathan Foster, Sightron provides a balance of quality and price. QD rings allow you to swap a high end scope between several rifles, but they are more expensive than fixed rings, and at this stage you might not be in position to appreciate the advantage. A sloped base effectively extends range, and allows you to make use all of the vertical adjustment in your scope. A reticle that has hold off points, like Leupold's Boone and Crockett, or a Horus reticle, allows you to rapidly pick up and engage multiple targets at different ranges, to make hits in variable winds, and you don't have to be concerned about mechanical errors that might occur when dialing in for range if your adjustments don't track precisely.

If you shoot at a range, you can save the cost of a rangefinder since you'll be shooting at a known distance. If the range has flags, you can get by without the Kestrel. If the range is nearby, you save in transportation costs. If you choose a small bore cartridge, you get more rounds down range, for each shooting dollar. That said, you should try to shoot under true field conditions now and again, as this provides challenges and opportunities that are absent on a manicured range. In the field, you can manipulate your position to create changes in wind and light conditions, and angle of departure. In the field, you might be forced to shoot from positions other than from a bench, or prone (due to low vegetation) and this provides an opportunity to learn how to stabilize higher shooting positions using packs, sandbags, and even cleaning rods. The range you shoot at does not have to be in full hundreds of yards/meters; if you want to confirm your point of impact at 637 yards, you can do that, and make any necessary correction to your ballistics program so it corresponds with your observations.

One of the most important things you can do is keep good records. Each shot should be recorded, with date, time, location, range, environmental and light conditions, angle of shot, and the reason for shooting (sighting in, confirming zero, group size etc). You can makeup an index card that can be taped to the stock of your rifle, and the more shooting you do, the better the information that card will contain. You don't know how to shoot in a wind unless you shoot in the wind. You don't know shooting in the rain will affect your score until you shoot in the rain.
 
There are lots of options out there for Tikka now as well. It may take a more time to find them but in terms of stocks/chassis/accessories you are good to go with a Tikka.

The following will be painful advice to follow but I really wish I listened when I started shooting. Save up the pennies and buy what you really want. A Tikka A1 can be found for $2,500. A M700 is $800, but then you will upgrade the stock ($400-$1,250), buy a new trigger ($100+), get a DBM ($250 ish) and probably a new barrel at some point as well ($1,000 by the time you get it chambered and cerakoted). Finally, if you really want something, that itch won't go away until it is scratched.


That puts things into perspective. Thank you!
 
I'm very happy for you, but that's still not holding moa at 600 all day. They are your words not mine. I know a lot of great shooters and not one of them can hold 1 moa at 600 all day.

You need to slow down a bit there. I am a prairie guy too and a coastal minute vs a prairie minute are not the same achievement. The absolute max I have dialed for wind out here at 600 was 4 moa and it stayed that way long enough to have a sandwich. It is not like the prairies where you have a 5 minute switchback every minute or so.
 
Given that you live in TO, your long range shooting opportunities are going to be more limited than it is for those of us who have access to the wide open spaces out west, or the even more wide open spaces in the arctic and subarctic. I get that cost is a factor in your choice of rifle, and believe me, I sympathize. But long shooting is an expensive game, and riflemen quickly discover that rifle cost is secondary to the cost of optics, mounts, ammunition (factory or components and handloading tools and accessories) chronograph, rangefinder, a Kestrel, and the cost of regularly getting to and from your shooting area. The best advice in choosing a rifle is to buy once, cry once, but the Remington is a solid choice, and can be customized to meet your needs over time.

Try not to skimp on glass; you don't have to go the Nightforce/S&B/US Optics route, but according to Nathan Foster, Sightron provides a balance of quality and price. QD rings allow you to swap a high end scope between several rifles, but they are more expensive than fixed rings, and at this stage you might not be in position to appreciate the advantage. A sloped base effectively extends range, and allows you to make use all of the vertical adjustment in your scope. A reticle that has hold off points, like Leupold's Boone and Crockett, or a Horus reticle, allows you to rapidly pick up and engage multiple targets at different ranges, to make hits in variable winds, and you don't have to be concerned about mechanical errors that might occur when dialing in for range if your adjustments don't track precisely.

If you shoot at a range, you can save the cost of a rangefinder since you'll be shooting at a known distance. If the range has flags, you can get by without the Kestrel. If the range is nearby, you save in transportation costs. If you choose a small bore cartridge, you get more rounds down range, for each shooting dollar. That said, you should try to shoot under true field conditions now and again, as this provides challenges and opportunities that are absent on a manicured range. In the field, you can manipulate your position to create changes in wind and light conditions, and angle of departure. In the field, you might be forced to shoot from positions other than from a bench, or prone (due to low vegetation) and this provides an opportunity to learn how to stabilize higher shooting positions using packs, sandbags, and even cleaning rods. The range you shoot at does not have to be in full hundreds of yards/meters; if you want to confirm your point of impact at 637 yards, you can do that, and make any necessary correction to your ballistics program so it corresponds with your observations.

One of the most important things you can do is keep good records. Each shot should be recorded, with date, time, location, range, environmental and light conditions, angle of shot, and the reason for shooting (sighting in, confirming zero, group size etc). You can makeup an index card that can be taped to the stock of your rifle, and the more shooting you do, the better the information that card will contain. You don't know how to shoot in a wind unless you shoot in the wind. You don't know shooting in the rain will affect your score until you shoot in the rain.

Thank you for this info. It's funny you mention out west as I plan on moving out there in a year. i will definatly take everything you have said into consideration. Now I think its time to start checking out where I can find the best deal on a rifle. I don't think im going to buy used for my first.
 
Boomer has said it all, very well explained.
You really should consider Savage 10TR on your choices, my opinion.
Save money on the rifle for the optic and ammunition. You need to build up experience, and event with a 5000$+ rifle, you won't have what it takes to make a 750 yards first shot hit. Sure it may help, but a 2500$+ rifle mounted with a crappy optic is a non-sense.
Think about trying to see a target 750 meters away in a crappy optic... You know that your riffle can make the shot, but you can't see clearly the target? it's a bit of non-sense.

So get yourself a 1 MOA rifle (ideally with a heavy barrel, so you'll be able to fire longer strings before having hot barrel accuracy issue), a good scope (I agree with Sightron, maybe Vortex PST also) and lot of ammo, and consider reloading.

Practice, take note (shooting log is crucial) and have fun :)

Dark
 
Have a look at the Ontario Rifle Association.
They shoot long range, not too awfully far from TO.
Go and watch before you buy.
 
Hey there. I've recently been interested in long range shooting and like most, I'm looking for advice!
I want to buy a rifle I can grow with. I've looked at the Remington 700 (varmint) 5R. I'm not looking to spend a million dollars and like I mention would like to grow with he rifle and customize it over time. I noticed the tikka tactical A1 and fell in love ! That being said, its way too expensive for me.


How about a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 CM?
 
How about a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 CM?

Because Savage is better :stirthepot2: :p

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