Heard a rumour once that if you shoot some non corrosive 7.62 after shooting corrosive ammo you can get away with not cleaning the rifle. Anyone care to verify if they heard the same or tried it. Im curious what the recommended amount on non corrosive fired would be. This is something I don't think I would be willing to try myself as I doubt it would work well.
Shooting non corrosive ammo after corrosive to clean out.....
- Thread starter Ebola
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- Newmarket,Ontario
an old wives tale I believe.
There is no "life hack" to this.
If you're gonna shoot corrosive be prepared to put in the effort doing a proper cleaning....if you want to take care of your firearms.
If you have a problem with cleaning thoroughly after every shoot, spend a little more and buy non-corrosive.
If you're gonna shoot corrosive be prepared to put in the effort doing a proper cleaning....if you want to take care of your firearms.
If you have a problem with cleaning thoroughly after every shoot, spend a little more and buy non-corrosive.
You have to clean corrosive or not. There is only one trick to the rescue - pray to Our Lord Jesus. That's what I do and it really helps. However because I'm a sinner I also clean my guns after prayer just in case Jesus did not hear me. So far worked out for me pretty well.
Umm... No... Think about it for a bit.
First off, the fouling gets deposited in layers and builds up over time. The fouling from the first thing you shoot will be closest to the metal, and the last thing you shoot will be deposited "on top."
Secondly, point 1 doesn't actually matter. "Corrosive" ammo isn't corrosive in the way a lot of people think. It isn't acidic, and in and of itself, doesn't react to the metal. The issue is that, in the case of military surplus ammo, the primers contain certain compounds (we'll call them "salts" - but again, that can be kind of misleading) that are hydrophilic, which means they bind and react with moisture. Think of it as dusting the gun with a microscopic sponges that are going to trap moisture in proximity to metal surfaces. Water + metal + oxygen = rust. It doesn't matter what point you add corrosive ammo into the mix, (going back and forth between corrosive and non-corrosive), those "microscopic sponges" are going to be mixed in with the fouling and do what they do.
Yes, I know the analogy isn't perfect, but it gives a basic idea of what's going on with corrosive ammo. Enough that "clean your dang gun" is really all you need to know.
On the bright side... It teaches good habits about, you know, clean your dang gun. Which is good advice no matter what ammo you use.
First off, the fouling gets deposited in layers and builds up over time. The fouling from the first thing you shoot will be closest to the metal, and the last thing you shoot will be deposited "on top."
Secondly, point 1 doesn't actually matter. "Corrosive" ammo isn't corrosive in the way a lot of people think. It isn't acidic, and in and of itself, doesn't react to the metal. The issue is that, in the case of military surplus ammo, the primers contain certain compounds (we'll call them "salts" - but again, that can be kind of misleading) that are hydrophilic, which means they bind and react with moisture. Think of it as dusting the gun with a microscopic sponges that are going to trap moisture in proximity to metal surfaces. Water + metal + oxygen = rust. It doesn't matter what point you add corrosive ammo into the mix, (going back and forth between corrosive and non-corrosive), those "microscopic sponges" are going to be mixed in with the fouling and do what they do.
Yes, I know the analogy isn't perfect, but it gives a basic idea of what's going on with corrosive ammo. Enough that "clean your dang gun" is really all you need to know.
On the bright side... It teaches good habits about, you know, clean your dang gun. Which is good advice no matter what ammo you use.
I've shot several rifles (bolt action milsurps and CZ858/VZ58 rifles) with frosted bores. Three in particular were very rough inside (SKS, Mosin Nagant, and cz858). Surprisingly I have not noticed any great effect on accuracy. Others on milsurp boards also report the the same. That doesn't mean you shouldn't clean them well. I'm sure really bad barrels are out there that are horrendously frost/rusty would be a different story.
Here is my routine if I know I won't be able to do a proper clean up right away
-shoot cheap corrosive
-pour water down the bore at the range
-dry with a couple patches down the bore
-soak the bore and other parts withe Breakfree CLP
-clean properly when I have time (2-3 days later)
So far my corrosive shooting rifles are all good to go. Proper cleaning procedure is the only trick against corrosive ammo. Or you can buy non-corrosive ammo...
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-shoot cheap corrosive
-pour water down the bore at the range
-dry with a couple patches down the bore
-soak the bore and other parts withe Breakfree CLP
-clean properly when I have time (2-3 days later)
So far my corrosive shooting rifles are all good to go. Proper cleaning procedure is the only trick against corrosive ammo. Or you can buy non-corrosive ammo...
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Or you can do the less aromatic and more hygienic approach of spraying the affected surfaces with Windex/glass cleaner that contains ammonia. That's the chemical that is supposed to neutralize or at least retard the actions of the salts that we're concerned with.
Sounds good, doesnt work.
Tried it for myself already.
I use 1-8 ballistol to water and spray it down the bore and all affected areas, then clean when i get home.
If i know im not going to clean for a while after shooting, i use non cor.
Tried it for myself already.
I use 1-8 ballistol to water and spray it down the bore and all affected areas, then clean when i get home.
If i know im not going to clean for a while after shooting, i use non cor.
