shooting rest recommendations

blinklit

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any preference or recommendations on a shooting rest,i have a matrix now but i would like to take ME out of the equation.
i have tried a multitude of different loads and for the life of me can't find any particular load or seating depth that i can say is "the load".
i thought i had it with 26.4gn of varget with 55gn vmax but my last range visit did not prove to be as promising as i hoped.
i am looking at the lead sled plus now to perhaps remove me from the shot.my groups are decent but hard to select a load that it likes as it seems to like it all and when i think i found the perfect load i can't seem to duplicate it so i'm just guessing that I am the problem?
very frustrating.
 
I use a Caldwell Lead Sled "Solo" works for me and not as expensive as some other models.. this shooting a Savage in 223, works well

h ttp://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-101777-Lead-Sled-Solo/dp/B00359P0YY
 
A Caldwell lead sled was designed for relieving the recoil of heavy kicking firearms. And that it does, and the question remaining is how long before a heavy kicker wrecks your scope.
On mine it didn't take long for a 45-70 to ruin two quality scopes. One was a Bushnell Elite, a few months old and it jiggered it up so much that Bushnell didn't even repair it, they just gave me a new one.
Also, it seems impossible to make tight groups while shooting from a lead sled. I quickly found out that I made better groups, even with heavy kickers, before I got the lead sled than I did while using it.
I believe this is true of any mechanical device to rest the rifle in while shooting.
Can't beat sand bags and bean bags for making good groups.
 
A Caldwell Rock BR and a good set of bags filled with heavy sand would be a far better choice than a lead sled
 
A Caldwell Rock BR and a good set of bags filled with heavy sand would be a far better choice than a lead sled

This I agree with wholeheartedly!! I have no love for the "Lead Sled" or similar devices. FWIW, these devices have broken wood stocks occasionally.

Regards, Dave.
 
You cannot and should not take yourself out of the equation. You are part of it whether you like it or not.

Before you go the leadsled route, check your gun and scope. Make sure all is tight and if you can, put that scope on another rifle that you know shoots well and see what happens. Maybe let a friend who you know is a good shot fire your gun.

If it all checks out, look to yourself. Make sure your handloading technique is solid. A couple tenths of a grain or a couple thou difference in ogive length can make a huge difference.

For my .223, I load 24.6gr of IMR4895 with a CCI400 primer under a 53gr boattail VMAX. I use IVI brass, which is a little thicker than most, so you will have a different load if you are using different cases. I have found the 53's to be more consistent in my gun. I have also tried 69gr SMK's and they work well, too. For the 53's, I am 25 thou off my lands. For the 69's, I am 15 off. Your mileage WILL vary.

If you find that your equipment is fine, then we need to work on you! I have a Caldwell BR rest. It's good for the money, but you can sure go higher quality if you want to. I also shoot from a bipod... either work fine for me.

Printing small groups aint easy and it takes time to learn. Go to a benchrest contest and watch them shoot... they do everything the same every shot. They will also try to wait for the wind to be the same for each shot. You could also try shooting from the prone position... I don't do that anymore 'cause my old bones don't allow it. Ha.

Please think about it before you commit to a leadsled. IMO, there are better and less expensive ways to figure out that you are a lousy shot, or your gun is hooped. Oh, and don't think you're gonna shoot five into the same hole... that only happens at benchrest contests and on these pages. If you can get it to .75 moa or .50, you are doing great.

If you find that the problem is you, get out there and shoot. The more you do it, the better you'll get. Practice good form and breathing, and doing everything the same way every time you send one downrange. Yes, it can be frustrating, but don't give up.

If you really want to take yourself out of the equation, forget all the rests... just go out and get yourself a rail gun. (I can't imagine how that would be any fun?)

Jeez, I haven't been this longwinded in a long time... gonna go find some medicine! Hehe... C.
 
Caldwell makes some reasonably priced shooting bag sets with a front and rear bag. The rear bag under the buttstock does help with stability for some people.
 
My wife bought me a $400 lead sled for Xmas a couple of years ago. I thought it would take the human factor out of the group too. I also shot worse with it. I only used it once.
 
The canvas bags that shotgun shot comes filled with sand and top stiched shut makes makes good, durable and cheap "sandbags" for shooting off a bench/rest ...
 
This I agree with wholeheartedly!! I have no love for the "Lead Sled" or similar devices. FWIW, these devices have broken wood stocks occasionally.

Regards, Dave.

X2 I played with mechanical style rests and I am back to bags . A Caldwell tack driver bag for the front and a a Caldwell rabbit ear bag for the rear
 
A Caldwell lead sled was designed for relieving the recoil of heavy kicking firearms. And that it does, and the question remaining is how long before a heavy kicker wrecks your scope.
On mine it didn't take long for a 45-70 to ruin two quality scopes. One was a Bushnell Elite, a few months old and it jiggered it up so much that Bushnell didn't even repair it, they just gave me a new one.
Also, it seems impossible to make tight groups while shooting from a lead sled. I quickly found out that I made better groups, even with heavy kickers, before I got the lead sled than I did while using it.
I believe this is true of any mechanical device to rest the rifle in while shooting.
Can't beat sand bags and bean bags for making good groups.
x2, I agree, I went back to sand bags and shot better groups.
 
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