Shortening a Ruger GP100

Many revolvers can be chopped, drop Gunar a line at ARMCO (see the link at the top of the page since he's a site sponsor) for more details. Or do a search for "chopped" in the pistols section for more info.
 
The length comes off the muzzle end of the barrel, it is re-crowned, and the front sight is either re-installed or a new front sight installed.

Bits of Pieces or Markus at The Shooting Edge can also do this kind of work.
 
I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat. Looks like a lot of machine work, but I guess that's the way to go if you want to retain an integral sight base.
 
Very nice work for a guy who`s not a gunsmith. The machining work was top notch.

However, cutting the forcing cone with a boring bar instead of the required reamer is a big no-no, and then not using the correct forcing cone depth gauge to know how deep to stop cutting.

The other mistake can be easily corrected, the cylinder gap is way too narrow. At .0015 and even at .003, the cylinder will start sticking after firing a few dozen wadcutter lead rounds. It needs to be cut to about .0065", but anything between .006" and .007" is OK, with .005 being the absolute minimum. The kit to do all this work is readily available from Brownell`s.
 
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But we never answered 7.62`s question.

Yes, it can be done by a qualified pistolsmith. And it`s a lot easier than on that S&W because the GP-100 doesn`t have that raised sight ramp so it can be shortened by the front. I usually do them at 108mm. The three extra mm give me breathing room with the sticklers at the CFC. The barrel needs to be cut to the desired length, recrowned, sight slot milled and the worked area polished (and re-blued in the case of a blued gun).
 
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