Shortening a Stevens 200 stock
- Thread starter Gunnutz
- Start date
the paint's not as important as shaving off all those annoying moulding lines that scream 'CHEAP STOCK!'
The one under the forearm is especially pronounced, I used a wood rasp on mine, then a bunch of sanding.
I've also had success filling in the checkering with Bondo (seriously - checkering, on a moulded plastic stock?!?).
Truck bed liner makes an attractive and grippy finish, and can be painted over as well for a textured, colored finish.
I have 3 stevens', all armacoated. One has the filled checkering and truck bed liner applied under the armacoat.
I only have a picture of one of them, here it is:
I've never had to consider shortening the stock, but I have shaped a spacer out of a chunk of pine 2x4 to increase the length (I'm 6'7" with freakishly long arms and other appendages...)
The one under the forearm is especially pronounced, I used a wood rasp on mine, then a bunch of sanding.
I've also had success filling in the checkering with Bondo (seriously - checkering, on a moulded plastic stock?!?).
Truck bed liner makes an attractive and grippy finish, and can be painted over as well for a textured, colored finish.
I have 3 stevens', all armacoated. One has the filled checkering and truck bed liner applied under the armacoat.
I only have a picture of one of them, here it is:
I've never had to consider shortening the stock, but I have shaped a spacer out of a chunk of pine 2x4 to increase the length (I'm 6'7" with freakishly long arms and other appendages...)
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Cut stock using a band saw if possible. Otherwise, a sharp fine tooth hand saw will work. Put a layer of tape around the stock to keep flashing to a min. Sand square.
gouge out the inside of the butt. Deep ridges are great. use a chisel. The rougher the better. Epoxy a couple of pieces of wood/plywood flush with the end. Screw in recoil pad and shape. Voila all done.
Epoxy sticks very well to this material once the mold release has been removed. I use aersol brake cleaner and spray liberally.
Jerry
gouge out the inside of the butt. Deep ridges are great. use a chisel. The rougher the better. Epoxy a couple of pieces of wood/plywood flush with the end. Screw in recoil pad and shape. Voila all done.
Epoxy sticks very well to this material once the mold release has been removed. I use aersol brake cleaner and spray liberally.
Jerry
I cut my stock with a mitre saw, worked fine. I also used a hunk of plywood to fill in the space, but I was also installing a mercury recoil reducer. I used polyurethane adhesive instead of epoxy, worked great. Another good tip, once you chop the stock a good table mounted belt sander and even out any poor cuts, I like to shim up the stock on the saw to get it square before cutting it. My fit isn't perfect as my plywood plug moved as the glues was setting. I can fix it later.
You do not always have to use the wood, depend on how much you take off. I did a Win model 70 without ever using a filler.
I also sanded down the seams started with a medium grit and finished with a 600 grit. I used a knife on some of the more pronounced areas.
Krylon fusion paint is excellent, painted mine satin black, kinda wish I used flat.
You do not always have to use the wood, depend on how much you take off. I did a Win model 70 without ever using a filler.
I also sanded down the seams started with a medium grit and finished with a 600 grit. I used a knife on some of the more pronounced areas.
Krylon fusion paint is excellent, painted mine satin black, kinda wish I used flat.
