Should I Arma-Coat An Antique colt Saa ?? With lots of History/Papers

I'm with apu and Ben! I like it the way it is. I'd protect it with oil or something of your choice and go out and enjoy it. I have one in 44 Spec I'm trying to get ready to shoot [no finish on it] and think I'll likely just cold blue it and use it..........wTc
 
starpuss said:
it has 1950's colt cylinder and barrel so it will be fine for light loads like the cowboy action loads. lots of guys shoot them with that.

and all we have is black bears so this will be fine. (most of them will run away well before i need to shoot.)

also.. Factory loads for Cowboy Action Shooting range from 700 to 850 fps right? witch is close to what the gun was made for.


but this is NOT the point of this thread...
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Gross over-simplification I'm afraid, the way that 750fps is achieved is much different with smokeless pressure curve wise than with black powder. Watch for a sticky cylinder pin after a few hundred light smokeless rounds- that means your frame's been stretched and distorted from breech face pressure. The way a revolver handles the strain and pressure of firing means leverage is applied to the cylinder pin, as the firing chamber is on a radius a good ways above that plane. It takes very, very little to distort one of these old soft wrought iron frames, they were built with very little safety margin, much different line of thinking than today. Cracks to the frame above the barrel-cylinder gap are also common in BP frame SAA's shot with smokeless. An SAA frame resonates on firing, and the vibes from the sharper smokeless pressure spike- even if the peak pressure is low- are drastically different and very rapid in comparison to BP. Wrought iron handles this quite poorly.
 
Ardent said:
Gross over-simplification I'm afraid, the way that 750fps is achieved is much different with smokeless pressure curve wise than with black powder. Watch for a sticky cylinder pin after a few hundred light smokeless rounds- that means your frame's been stretched and distorted from breech face pressure. The way a revolver handles the strain and pressure of firing means leverage is applied to the cylinder pin, as the firing chamber is on a radius a good ways above that plane. It takes very, very little to distort one of these old soft wrought iron frames, they were built with very little safety margin, much different line of thinking than today. Cracks to the frame above the barrel-cylinder gap are also common in BP frame SAA's shot with smokeless. An SAA frame resonates on firing, and the vibes from the sharper smokeless pressure spike- even if the peak pressure is low- are drastically different and very rapid in comparison to BP. Wrought iron handles this quite poorly.
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my last one in 41 colt i shot well over 400rds of smokeless and never had this.
 
I guess if anyones really worried about it, get some Blackhorn 209, bulk smokeless/BP substitute, same pressure curve/spike ect. but non corrosive.

whats not to love. I can't wait to get my hands on some.
 
All you need to know is:

Under the current legislation, "any antique firearm" (including, apparently, a loaded one) is not a "firearm" for the following purposes:

1. Firearms Act: None of the provisions of the Firearms Act, including those requiring registration, licences, ATTs and/or ATCs, apply to any "antique firearm."
2. CC s. 91 and 92: Possession of any "antique firearm" without a licence or registration certificate is legal.
3. CC s. 93: Possession of any "antique firearm" at any location is legal.

4. CC s. 94: Being in a motor vehicle with any "antique firearm" is legal.
5. CC s. 95: Being in possession of a loaded "antique firearm" (which is also a "restricted firearm" or a "prohibited firearm"), or one with readily accessible ammunition is legal even if the person is not the holder of any licence, registration certificate, ATT, or ATC.
6. CC s. 99: Transferring or offering to transfer any "antique firearm" is legal.
7. CC s. 100: Dealing in any type of any "antique firearm" is legal.
8. CC s. 101: Transferring any "antique firearm" is legal if the transfer apparently violates the Firearms Act.
9. CC s. 103 and 104: Importing or exporting any "antique firearm" is legal.
10. CC s. 105: Not reporting the loss or finding of any "antique firearm" is legal.
11. CC s. 106 and 107: Not reporting the destruction of any "antique firearm" is legal, and knowingly making a false report of that type to a firearms official or the police is legal.
12. CC s. 117.03: A peace officer who finds a person in possession of any "antique firearm" is not authorized to demand that the person present a licence, registration certificate, ATT, and/or ATC.
http://www.nfa.ca/content/view/150/199/


hope that clears it up.
You can carry it OPENLY loaded, anywhere you may legally fire a long gun.
 
they dont look that bad lol...:puke:

youknowyouwantone.jpg
 
i thought that dura coat or arma-coat had a "gun blue" finish color that would not be that bad.


one other idea would be to blue and case color the gun then use "arma coat clear??"

ok looks like they do.

thiswillmakeyourgunlookcool....jpg
 
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DOOK said:
All you need to know is:

Under the current legislation, "any antique firearm" (including, apparently, a loaded one) is not a "firearm" for the following purposes:

1. Firearms Act: None of the provisions of the Firearms Act, including those requiring registration, licences, ATTs and/or ATCs, apply to any "antique firearm."
2. CC s. 91 and 92: Possession of any "antique firearm" without a licence or registration certificate is legal.
3. CC s. 93: Possession of any "antique firearm" at any location is legal.

4. CC s. 94: Being in a motor vehicle with any "antique firearm" is legal.
5. CC s. 95: Being in possession of a loaded "antique firearm" (which is also a "restricted firearm" or a "prohibited firearm"), or one with readily accessible ammunition is legal even if the person is not the holder of any licence, registration certificate, ATT, or ATC.
6. CC s. 99: Transferring or offering to transfer any "antique firearm" is legal.
7. CC s. 100: Dealing in any type of any "antique firearm" is legal.
8. CC s. 101: Transferring any "antique firearm" is legal if the transfer apparently violates the Firearms Act.
9. CC s. 103 and 104: Importing or exporting any "antique firearm" is legal.
10. CC s. 105: Not reporting the loss or finding of any "antique firearm" is legal.
11. CC s. 106 and 107: Not reporting the destruction of any "antique firearm" is legal, and knowingly making a false report of that type to a firearms official or the police is legal.
12. CC s. 117.03: A peace officer who finds a person in possession of any "antique firearm" is not authorized to demand that the person present a licence, registration certificate, ATT, and/or ATC.
http://www.nfa.ca/content/view/150/199/


hope that clears it up.
You can carry it OPENLY loaded, anywhere you may legally fire a long gun.
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Your link didn't work
http://www.nfa.ca/node/130
 
I had mine out today, doing a little target shooting South West of redmonton, (Think I'll be doing a whole lot more of this, thanks to the ####### at the CFO's office, but I digress,) on second thought Keep her oiled and clean, I was admiring mine against the backdrop of the foothills and snow, etc...And I gotta tell ya, I was getting a bit of a chill, these pieces of our history, harkening us back to a simpler time when having fun didn't have to come with a permission slip from some ####heel in rotowa.
 
IMHO, as it is, it is a very cool old gun. Arma coated, or any other new-fangled "coated" would be a travesty. The one's illustrated just make me sick to my stomach.
 
41 Colt said:
youknowyouwantone.jpg


Those look like s**t.
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Nah, I disagree... get a duracoat in "sky blue"... that way, anyone who sees it will completely disregard it as being an actual firearm. They'll just think that the guy who is carrying it must be some middle-aged retarded person who likes to play cowboy with plastic toy guns... and they'll just move along, lol.

It will look kind of like this (isn't it pretty?) :

3717338.jpg


:D
 
That revolver looks real, just as it is, to this envious eye. No to spacecoating, were that my beauty.

An aerosol product called Fluid Film will stop all rust while in the field. It tolerates a lot of handling and moisture without wearing off. Even Browning salt wood or humid summer basement storage won't defeat it's protection. That, and a full flap holster treated with boot waterproofing should end your rust worries.
 
vviking said:
That revolver looks real, just as it is, to this envious eye. No to spacecoating, were that my beauty.

An aerosol product called Fluid Film will stop all rust while in the field. It tolerates a lot of handling and moisture without wearing off. Even Browning salt wood or humid summer basement storage won't defeat it's protection. That, and a full flap holster treated with boot waterproofing should end your rust worries.
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my hands turn RED and Dry up Real bad from all aerosol oil and most gun oil. (even if i wipe it down 10 times.) that why i was was trying to stay away from this.

this is what i use right now on all my guns. inside and out. looks to stop Rust Real nice. and it's under 5 bucks to buy.
Lubricates parts & surfaces under extreme pressure
Synthetic high performance lubricant
Temperature range: -28øC to 282øC

54w39.bmp
 
starpuss said:
my hands turn RED and Dry up Real bad from all aerosol oil and most gun oil. (even if i wipe it down 10 times.) that why i was was trying to stay away from this.

this is what i use right now on all my guns. inside and out. looks to stop Rust Real nice. and it's under 5 bucks to buy.
Lubricates parts & surfaces under extreme pressure
Synthetic high performance lubricant
Temperature range: -28øC to 282øC

54w39.bmp
Click to expand...

I guess you're allergic to gun oil then (man... what a weird & unfortunate coincidence, being a gun enthusiast and all).

While visiting another forum that talks about survival techniques, I remember reading about woodsmen oiling their knives and other metal equipment with canola cooking oil. They do this (especially with blades) because gun oil apparently gives diarrhea when ingested - in other words, if you coat your blade in gun oil and then use it to cut your food, you might have another thing coming... and, being in the woods and with a limited supply of water, it might not be the best thing.

Now, having said that... I don't know how well canola (or other) cooking oil would hold up to tough long term outdoors use, but it might be an alternative for when you run out of your other lube. Just to test it, I coated my carbon-steel Tops Condor Alert knife with straight canola and went on a few small excursions in the woods with it (chopping some branches, etc in the process). The oil held up nice and provided a light runny coat of oil that would usually "regenerate" the disturbed spots (cutting areas)... However, the knife was in it's plastic sheath most of the time and didn't get much humidity on it. It didn't rust though... even on the exposed (sharpened/unpainted) part of the blade.
 
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