SHV 5-20 / S111 6-24 anybody have both???

I pretty much have all DNZ mounts on my rifles. Dont know why I got into them, but thinking of getting another one for this new scope.

If I wouldnt of seen this deal you talking about, I was thinking real hard on the NSX with the Warne rings. For the target/coyote rig 223 that its going on Im sure Ill never have to buy another scope for it, unless I wont like something about it but Im pretty darn sure Ill like it. :)
 
Right now Im looking at 4 different ones, but the cheapskate in me is telling me to get the cheapest one. ha

DNZ Savage All Round Receiver S-A 30mm 36200: Short Action High Mount Black
DNZ Products 36202: Savage All Round Rec. 20MOA-Short Action-High Mount-Black
DNZ Products 36200T: Savage All Round Rec.Tactical-Short Action-High Mount-Black
DNZ Products 36202T: Savage All Round Rec. Tactical 20MOA-SA-High Mount-Black

The only places I know that has them, is CND Tire in Calgary and BassPro north of Calgary. Ive also ordered one from Optics Planet in the states
 
With their high mount and my s4 savage heavy sporter barrel. I will only have about a .118" or 3mm clearance. So if you have a heavier barrel they might not work.


EDIT: And probably even abit less with a 20moa mount. I dont think I need the 20MOA mount as I think I only need 36moa for 1000yds
 
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Got the 5-20 MOAR non-ill

I didnt know what to do about the mount, so I just ordered the DNZ from optics planet. It cost more then if I would of gotten it here but thats what I wanted. :/
 
To answer the original question, yes I've owned both.
The 6-24 siii has better glass, it resolves fine detail quite a bit better at distance. The parallax knob is stiff on them though, no zero stop, only 5 mils per rev, and I'm not sure how much abuse you could throw at one before it yielded. It's not heavily built, although the shv doesn't feel a bunch more heavily built.
The shv suffers the same travel per rev limitation on the turrets, worse glass, no ffp, and worst of all, an moa based reticle.
I'd take the s3 all day, every day, until nightforce pulls their heads out of their butts and offers an shv 5-20 ffp with a mil based reticle and 10 mil turret. But that would likely kill most demand for any of their higher priced offerings. But they'd sell a bunch of them...
 
I guess that'll be my next scope, I'll find out which I like better.
Why do you think the MOA reticle sucks?
It shouldn't make no difference to me ,as I won't be using the sub-tensions anyway.
 
I guess that'll be my next scope, I'll find out which I like better.
Why do you think the MOA reticle sucks?
It shouldn't make no difference to me ,as I won't be using the sub-tensions anyway.

Everybody talks in mils now, wind formulas are mils, data cards are mils, etc.
Just quicker and easier to understand for doing movers, wind, etc. Due to it's linear nature.
It's the standard, and the language everyone speaks at comps, or just the range in general.
And you will be using the substensions for wind holds unless you have a very consistent wind.
 
Might have to really think about trading my vortex for a sightron for my 243 then. :)

Well since I done wanna use FFP and like using MOA, it looks like Im gtg. :p
 
At what distance do the wind start really become noticeable?

Depends on the size of your target I suppose, and wind speed.
In high winds on sub moa targets you'll be holding off at 100 yards.
If you mean at what point do you need to be actively adjusting your wind hold while shooting to achieve an moa grouping, it's caliber specific, but I really start paying attention as soon as 300 yards and/or 3 mph shifts in wind speed.
Past 600, you won't hit the broadside of a barn consistently in gusting winds without altering your wind hold to accomadate.
 
Depends on the size of your target I suppose, and wind speed.
In high winds on sub moa targets you'll be holding off at 100 yards.
If you mean at what point do you need to be actively adjusting your wind hold while shooting to achieve an moa grouping, it's caliber specific, but I really start paying attention as soon as 300 yards and/or 3 mph shifts in wind speed.
Past 600, you won't hit the broadside of a barn consistently in gusting winds without altering your wind hold to accomadate.
I found a place where I can shoot out to 400 yards. Soooo how do you know how fast the wind is moving....

I'll be using a 10 Tr (.308)
 
Hey Brian Im not a pro by any means, but this is how I taught myself about the wind so far.

I bought a Kestrel and made some wind flags, like this.

2016%20june%2018%20735yds_zpslxzat9y0.jpg


And with acouple of these down range (mostly my shooting position and at target) I can get a idea of the wind direction and speed. Ive measured at what angle the wind speed the wind makes the flags move. Next year Im going to play around with making the caution tape a little heavier or something so it doesnt top out at 12-15km.
 
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