Side by Side for Turkey

VictoryXC

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I am a curious to know if anyone is using a side by side for turkey hunting. If you are, what side by side do you use, how is it choked, barrel lengths and what shells/loads do you use? Of course pictures are welcomed! I did see a picture posted by Cintax in the 2016 Spring Turkey thread with his 1936 Francotte in 12 gauge. Very nice!
As an aside, I am a newb at turkey hunting. I have only been out twice so far (once last spring and once this past Saturday) and my record is 0 for 2. :HR:
 
It's fun though isn't it, lol.
I used to use a Ugartchea, 2 3/4", 12 ga, sis choked F/M, 28" barrels, or a Baikal IZH43, 2 3/4", 12 ga, 28".
Didn't hunt last year, or this year.
 
My son shot his birds with a 110 year old Tobin SXS, 30" barrels choked Full and IM. He used Kent 2 3/4" heavy game loads in #6. First bird at 30 yards with the full barrel and second bird at 20 yards with the IM barrel... both well struck in head and neck and went straight down.

I embraced "high-end" technology with a late 70's Wingmaster.
 
I use an old 60's Baikal IJ-58 20ga. I had acquired the shotgun specifically for Turkey hunting as it has 26in bbls chambered for 3in cartridge and both tubes, based on a recent measure, are actually tight XF. It is built on a 12 receiver, weighs 7lbs and thus softer on recoil during pattern tests with heavy turkey loads. The shotgun patterns very well at 30 yards with #5 Kent and #6 Federal Mag-shok. Last year, I took a longbeard at 38 yards. This season, I was only able to venture out on opener, and therefore, the jury is still out ...... :)
 
I used to hunt with a Stevens 311 12 gauge 2 3/4" only, fixed modified and improved chokes. I found the best load for it was the winchester super x #6 buffered shot, I got a good pattern out to about 35 yards. But every gun is different and you should try a couple different brands and shot sizes to find the best load for your gun, perhaps even for each barrel on a double. As an FYI, Hornady now has a turkey load specifically tailored to pattern tighter in modified and improved choked guns, a lot of older double and single barreled shotguns are fixed choke so this may be very helpful. If you get a side by side with chokes, think about putting a full choke in one barrel and perhaps a modified in the other. That way if the Turkey comes in at distance you have a tight pattern or if he comes in real close you've got a bit wider pattern to work with. Just a thought.
 
I got my first turkey with a 16 gauge Beretta 409. I shot it inside 25 yards with the full choke barrel using regular Remington Heavy Game #4's. The turkey was a young tom, and for the most part, it folded onto itself stone dead. . This was back in the spring of 2006, and much like Hoyt, I embraced new technology by purchasing my Browning Silver that fall. The 409 was then retired and relegated to the safe
 
There is absolutely no reason a SXS won't well and in some cases actually better than a single barrel due to the instant choice of chokes. Just like any other gun, pattern it, see if there any regulation issues, determine the best load, stay within your limits and enjoy!

Edited to add: Don't let my shooting skills at the SXS Oshawa shoot dissuade you from using one... :)
 
While I have taken turkey with my trusty old early 1980's Wingmaster and a Browning Double Auto, the last 10 years have been exclusively SxS.

The first SxS I used was a 12 gauge Fox A grade, from 1909, with 30" barrels choked full & full. Using Kent TM 2 3/4" shells with a load of 1 1/4 #3 or sometimes would use Bismuth 1 3/8 #6. The full choke with the modern shells/shotcups throws very tight patterns.

The last few years I switched to a 1935 16 gauge Fox SW, 28" barrels choked Mod & Full. Again, choosing between Kent TM 2 3/4" shells with a load of 1 1/4" #5 or sometimes Bismuth 1 1/8 #6. Ditto the above on the patterns. Modern shells, old guns generally mean tighter patterns than indicated by nominal choke measurements.

The 16 is a pound lighter than the 12. While I'm clumsy at the best of times, I can be sneakier with the lighter gun.;)
 
While I have taken turkey with my trusty old early 1980's Wingmaster and a Browning Double Auto, the last 10 years have been exclusively SxS.

The first SxS I used was a 12 gauge Fox A grade, from 1909, with 30" barrels choked full & full. Using Kent TM 2 3/4" shells with a load of 1 1/4 #3 or sometimes would use Bismuth 1 3/8 #6. The full choke with the modern shells/shotcups throws very tight patterns.

The last few years I switched to a 1935 16 gauge Fox SW, 28" barrels choked Mod & Full. Again, choosing between Kent TM 2 3/4" shells with a load of 1 1/4" #5 or sometimes Bismuth 1 1/8 #6. Ditto the above on the patterns. Modern shells, old guns generally mean tighter patterns than indicated by nominal choke measurements.

The 16 is a pound lighter than the 12. While I'm clumsy at the best of times, I can be sneakier with the lighter gun.;)

YMMV, but I would not shoot TM through a double I value, especially with full chokes. Yes, I know it's marketed to be ok, but I would stick with bismuth, which is soft as lead. TM contains pure tungsten powder and over time would be like putting emery paper through the choke. It would eventually have an effect, I think. Though at the TM cost most folks would perhaps never get there???

Maybe I'm overly cautious. I have no idea whether the shot cup encapsulates it consistently.
 
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I have used both my 1938 Timothy Eatons in 16 gauge and my 1936 Francotte in 12 gauge. I have only had the opportunity to harvest a turkey with the Francotte however.

The Francotte has 722 thousands bores with the left barrel being 29 thousandths constriction and the right barrel being 17 thousandths constriction. This allows me to reach out to about 35 yards with the left barrel and it allows me to keep the right barrel for the closer shots. The barrels are metric, but they are about 29-1/2" long and it has factory 2-3/4" chambers as well. This shotgun weights 6 lbs and 11 oz. I bought that firearm from TradeEx for under $250 shipping and HST included.

I forget the bore measurement but the 16 gauge Timothy Eaton has 27 thousandths constriction on the left barrel and 22 thousandths constriction on the right barrel. The barrels are 28" long with 2-3/4" chambers. This shotgun weights 6 lbs 8 oz. I think I paid about $200 for that shotgun and honestly, I think it was under valued by the store who sold it to me.
 
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YMMV, but I would not shoot TM through a double I value, especially with full chokes. Yes, I know it's marketed to be ok, but I would stick with bismuth, which is soft as lead. TM contains pure tungsten powder and over time would be like putting emery paper through the choke. It would eventually have an effect, I think. Though at the TM cost most folks would perhaps never get there???

Maybe I'm overly cautious. I have no idea whether the shot cup encapsulates it consistently.

Kent TM (Tungsten Matrix) has a density of 10.8/cc vs Lead at 11.1/cc. It is damn near the same weight as lead and is consistently tested and marketed as being soft enough for vintage guns. It is tungsten combined with a polymer of some sort. Tungsten/iron pellets were also marketed.....good weight but hard as ####. Not for vintage guns. Most other non tox (not including bismuth) is too hard for vintage guns.

Perhaps you can direct me to some evidence that suggests or confirms that Kent TM is bad for vintage barrels. (Not counting the loads or peak pressure, just the pellet density and hardness). This is the first I have ever heard anyone suggest it may not be suitable.
 
My understanding is the same as yours Canvasback; that tungsten matrix with the polymer is fine for vintage guns provided they can handle the pressures of modern loads.
 
I own a swamped ribbed 626 Onyx in 12ga equipped with Mobil chokes. So far, I've hesitated to take that out as it is in very nice condition and Turkey hunts do involve a bit of abuse to firearms during early Spring weather.
 
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