the shot shell holder that came with my shotgun is really tight. its a 3 shell hlder and has slots cut length wise so it expanps as you put shells in. problem is its really hard to get them in and harder to get them out. any tips on making them fit in there easier?
side saddle is too tight
- Thread starter uchi
- Start date
- Location
- East ontario
What brand is it
not too sure, i can look for a marking on it tonight. it came with the tactical stuff that was on the gun. its from a vendor that isnt on here anymore but he lists it as a Pro Mag Tactical Stock kit. i left some shells in it to see if it would make a difference but it doesnt seem to. next step might be to get some sandpaper or something and run it through it i think. its damn tight i had a hard time getting the shells in last night
yea- try finding a copper pipe that's just slightly larger than the shotgun shells you're using- cut 3 lengths off, and put those lengths in there and let it set a while- that MIGHT work- and i mean SLIGHTLY larger- just enough to expand it just a hair- those holders are probably spring steel, and you want it to take a set, but not so much that it's useless and sloppy when you put regular shells in there- you might also try a DIFFERENT BRAND - there's slight differences in diameters of shotgun shells
Good to know thanks. Although i could bring wrong but i think its plastic. Im not home to check but i will when i get back. I wonder if i couldtake the large copper cleaning brush put it on my drill and open the holes a hair. Or find copper that's the same size and do some careful heat gun work with the saddle off the gun of course. I've got two of them so i guess if i mess one up I've got a backup.
if it's plastic , then the same trick will work , maybe even cold-there's a certain amount of "give" to plastic-remember the STRENGTH of those wings/holders/whatever comes from the thickness of the plastic as well as the joint, so you don't want to reduce the wings too much- the average shotshell has a diameter if .79-.80- get out your vernie calipers and measure it, then add just a hir , and that's the diameter of the pipe you need
ok good so im not the only one who got holders that are meant for anorexic 12 guage shells, lol.
t-star, good info and good points on the thickness, ill get my vernier out and see how much i need to reduce it by. seeing as its flexable if i end up boring it out a little you think i should leave a few thou more on the holder just so its still snug or should i get it as close as i can? i thought about shaving some material away from where it meets the mounting plate but im wondering if that would cause it to become too weak and snap at some point. just to let it flex a little more where it meets the body
t-star, good info and good points on the thickness, ill get my vernier out and see how much i need to reduce it by. seeing as its flexable if i end up boring it out a little you think i should leave a few thou more on the holder just so its still snug or should i get it as close as i can? i thought about shaving some material away from where it meets the mounting plate but im wondering if that would cause it to become too weak and snap at some point. just to let it flex a little more where it meets the body
i'd sooner stretch it oversize than reduce it than reduce it by means of a dremel tool, drill, file, whatever- plastic is not linear in expansion nor thckness-the more material left on the collar the better- and you're better off at the ENDS of the circle than at the joint of the plate as that is the CRITCAL area - ie if you want to expand the circle, remove the material evenly from the inside of the end where the split is, and only go as far as the "outside" portion- what i mean is that if you look at your sidesaddle, you will notice that it is basically a tube attached to a plate- where you want to remove material is evenly,but only on the inside,and only to the part furthest away from the base plate-plus, you won't be able to "bust out" the shells out the side, if you do that- you'll have to pull them out from the top or you'll break those weakened fingers
Shotshells vary in size, but only slightly. TacStar side saddles are somewhat tight, though they have never cause me grief when I have used them. I decided against them for different reasons.
There's no need to insert the shells all the way and with use, it will loosen up. This is anticipated from the factory. Better tight than to have shells fall out. Yes?
Get yourself a length of 7/8" dowel at the hardware store, (actually 7/8" dowels are just under that, so even better), and a cheap 20$ heat gun if you don't have one.
Cut yourself however many dowel pieces as your saddle will hold and force them on. Careful not to burn/melt the saddle, gently heat the shell holder a little at a time to relieve the stress so it conforms closer to the dowel's diameter.
Leave the dowels in over night.
It'll never set to the same size diameter as the dowel, but it will open up just enough to make it right.
If the dowels don't all fit on at the same time, do every second one and repeat alternating.
Don't be a tool and try this with actual shells. Shells are not fat enough to make this work anyway. And take the holder off the gun if you do this.
You could try some talcum powder, or some graphite on the inside of the holders for now.
But really, I think you're being too anal about it. So just use the damn thing and it will loosen up on its own like it's supposed to.
There's no need to insert the shells all the way and with use, it will loosen up. This is anticipated from the factory. Better tight than to have shells fall out. Yes?
Get yourself a length of 7/8" dowel at the hardware store, (actually 7/8" dowels are just under that, so even better), and a cheap 20$ heat gun if you don't have one.
Cut yourself however many dowel pieces as your saddle will hold and force them on. Careful not to burn/melt the saddle, gently heat the shell holder a little at a time to relieve the stress so it conforms closer to the dowel's diameter.
Leave the dowels in over night.
It'll never set to the same size diameter as the dowel, but it will open up just enough to make it right.
If the dowels don't all fit on at the same time, do every second one and repeat alternating.
Don't be a tool and try this with actual shells. Shells are not fat enough to make this work anyway. And take the holder off the gun if you do this.
You could try some talcum powder, or some graphite on the inside of the holders for now.
But really, I think you're being too anal about it. So just use the damn thing and it will loosen up on its own like it's supposed to.
Haha no man it really is hard to get them in. Before i modify it ill measure both and post the results. Even removing them I've gotta use a couple fingers and fight the shell to get it out. Ill try your method before i get into cutting thanks for the help.
I misunderstood. I thought you may have a TacStar as I didn't notice yours is a 3 shell holder.
TacStar only makes 6 and 4 shell carriers. And so does Mesa.
You must have some lesser quality carrier and it may not be worth the trouble to make it right. Order a TacStar, or a Mesa saddle instead of spending more money and time on questionable components.
Who makes plastic 3 shell carriers anyway? What brand is yours?
A good plan would be to buy one the velcro type saddles from S&J here on the board. They are very inexpensive and you a have vast choice of configurations and sizes.
TacStar only makes 6 and 4 shell carriers. And so does Mesa.
You must have some lesser quality carrier and it may not be worth the trouble to make it right. Order a TacStar, or a Mesa saddle instead of spending more money and time on questionable components.
Who makes plastic 3 shell carriers anyway? What brand is yours?
A good plan would be to buy one the velcro type saddles from S&J here on the board. They are very inexpensive and you a have vast choice of configurations and sizes.
good point with the velcro setup. and with that i can likely secure it to my tactical rail mount. as for the 3 shell holder it came with the tactical add ons for the hp9. i cant remember the name off hand but i posted it on the first page and another member has the same setup and confirmed the brand.
i had some plans change last night and ended up just staying in and watching a movie so i decided to try and see about sanding the inside of my spare 3 shot saddle with some 400 grit sandpaper. it made the shells fit a little better but not enough that when theyre in theyre easy to get out without cursing atleast once. so ill get some 7/8 dowel today and go at it from there. was more of a spur of the moment thing thing than anything else.
also im waiting for my scope mount to come in. it craddles the top of the shotgun and attaches through the holes that hold the trigger assembly in place and then ill get one of the velcro guys and mount it infront of that. just need to see how much room i have so i dont get one thats too long.
also im waiting for my scope mount to come in. it craddles the top of the shotgun and attaches through the holes that hold the trigger assembly in place and then ill get one of the velcro guys and mount it infront of that. just need to see how much room i have so i dont get one thats too long.
hate to burst your bubble, but on my remmy and my defender i'd have to pick one or the other or extend those trigger pins with longer bolts- if you're going to go the velcro route, you need the HEAVY DUTY velcro that's about 3 inches wide, not the cheap stuff, and you MAY have problems attaching it to the receiver- if it will stick at all- degrease first, let dry, and then apply your velcro, and leave it UNTOUCHED for 24 hours- i know that's not what others will say, but that works for me- you may be also disappointed with the accuracy of that scope mount- that's b/c of the relationship between the receiver and barrel, and common to most shotguns- the BETTER way to go is the slug barrel with the CANTILEVER scope mount-that way you get steel to steel, not aluminun to steel- or do what i do- just use a rifle
