sig black special - misc

fed007

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Is there any way to mount a redot/eotech low enough so I can co-witness the irons? If not are there cantilvered see through mounts?

I also want to know a good cleaning procedure for my new most prized member , They don;t supply gun oil or any cleaning solvents... just that grease and the tools. They provide a "grease brush" for the barrel but I am not sure that grease they supply is supposed to go in there.

I want to treat this rifle to the finest cleaning everytime, any help with product and procedure would be great - thx in advance

this is one sweet rifle.

fed007
 
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Okay, here we go:

Personally I use the lowest available SIG-rail (more or less identical to Rooster's rail) in combination with a Aimpoint ML2, no problem to use both, reddot and the iron-sights.

The original cleaning kit is supposed to be used like this:

barrel:
-after shooting brush out the barrel with the steel brush (use a bit of the grease). This is best done right after shooting when the barrel is still warm.
-once this is done replace the brush with the rough brass thing, wrap a piece of the cloth patchs around this thing and wipe out the barrel till it shines like a mirror.
-fix the plastic brush to apply the grease

gas tube:
-fix the thickest steel brush and add a bit of grease to brush out the dirt.
-pull a cloth through (or you can wrap one of the small cloth patchs around the brush and clean the tube this way, this is how I do it)
-add the grease with the same brush as you used for the barrel

note: don't use too much grease or the first shot will smoke like hell!!!

gas piston:
-scratch off the carbon with the L-shaped tool, another possibility is to use the sling as a kind of "emery paper" (works great to polish the top of the piston)
-add a bit of grease on the spring

This is how I clean my two Swissrifles, works for me for 8 years now.

/edit: and by the way: I wouldn't use the steel brush on other rifles, the steel or the coating might be too soft. A friend of mine noticed scratchs in the barrel of his FAMAS after cleaning it regularely with the steel brush.
 
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perfect, thx Kampfhamster - I was wondering about that brass rod - I was concerned it would scratch the barrel - I am not sure about how to wrap patch where I can pull it back through the barrel ... also do you plunge the barrel starting form the barrel end or chamber end?


about the sights.

so when your drum is turned to the battle sights your irons line up satifactory with your red dot ? ( does your red dot provide parallax error correction? )

About the irons, the manual states the screw at the back is WINDAGE and the big screw on the side is elevation.

this website http://www.mg-42.net/sight_adj_sig.htm says opposite of the manual.

I shot it yesterday (had to :D ) and every thing I shot (about 50 yards was low and left - by a fair amount) - turns out I had the night sight flipped up the whole time and I may have been turning the wrong screw, no wonder I was having trouble sighting in.

I expect the manual is correct and that the rear screw is windage, to reset my whole sighting procedure should I center the rear windage and adjust the front site first? Then start fine tuning?

fed007
 
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fed007 said:
perfect, thx Kampfhamster - I was wondering about that brass rod - I was concerned it would scratch the barrel - I am not sure about how to wrap patch where I can pull it back through the barrel ... also do you plunge the barrel starting form the barrel end or chamber end?

don't worry, you won't damage the barrel, the steel is way too hard for that. After all, it's a cold forged barrel ;)

Start from the chamber end, otherwise you might push all the dirt right into your chamber, where it's difficult to get out.


about the sights.

so when your drum is turned to the battle sights your irons line up satifactory with your red dot ? ( does your red dot provide parallax error correction? )

What do you use as "battle sight"? On have removed the screw on the "400m" position for a better field of view and use this as the battle sights. Otherwise the 200m-sight is "our" battle sight", the 100m-position is used for night shooting only.

As far as I know the Aimpoint ML2 is parallax-free, at least that's what the manual says.

I can see the iron sights just fine with the aimpoint mounted, will take pictures when I'm on the range next time.

About the irons, the manual states the screw at the back is WINDAGE and the big screw on the side is elevation.

this website http://www.mg-42.net/sight_adj_sig.htm says opposite of the manual.

The manual is wrong then.


I shot it yesterday (had to :D ) and every thing I shot (about 50 yards was low and left - by a fair amount) - turns out I had the night sight flipped up the whole time and I may have been turning the wrong screw, no wonder I was having trouble sighting in.

I expect the manual is correct and that the rear screw is windage, to reset my whole sighting procedure should I center the rear windage and adjust the front site first? Then start fine tuning?

fed007

Centering the windage won't do probably since the rifles are supposed to be shot in at the factory, so they were maybe not in the center when you got it.
If I were you I'd just place a target at 30m and give it a try, can't be that bad I guess.

In the army we first sight them in at 30m, then your sight is also good (more or less) for 300m (the bullet crosses the line of sight twice, once at 30m and once at 300m, but I'm afraid I can't explain it any further. It works though.

by the way: congratulation to your new rifle :cool:
 
Thanks - I can already tell this rifle is a keeper,

the manual states open 'battle" (night) sights for night and ~100 m shooting. next time out my POI will certainly rise as the night post is higher to accomodate the tritium dot. (I folded that baby down so all is good)

I have a feeling sighting in maybe be easier using the 200 m aperature. more consistent.

I was placing my target on the top of the night sight post. easy to see how I was shooting 8 " inches low at 50 yards, I was at the end of my elevation adjustments at the range as well :eek: and still not hitting the mark - this was the night sight post.

can you post a pic of your rail and aimpoint mount? this is something I want to duplicate. also if possible can you post a pic perspective of looking through the sights? (that one will be tricky)

I just bought a rail for $300 (ouch) and it may not have been one of the low profile ones, I am not going to be happy if this thing becomes a paper weight.

I measured the diopter sight to see ho high the center aim is - it was ~25mm off any device mounted on my rail, measured from the base of any prospective device (overall height) . knowing some overall dimension or your setup would probably help.


fed007
 
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Sure, no problem:

551.jpg


more pictures tomorrow (if needed)

When you were at the end of the elevation you obviously did something wrong. Not even with the night sights this should happen.

What kind of rail did you get? A picture would be great.

More tomorrow, bedtime for me now.
 
we have the same rail - there are actually lower rails than yours/mine where the mounting platform is recesseced lower in the overall block...

The reason I was so off was due to poor aim + the fact I wasn;t using the night sight post properly. There were time when I lined up my sight picture different and achieved better results...

I'll post my new results when I shoot next (hopefully soon) - I'll post a pic of my set up tonight so we can compare the rails.

fed
 
Do you mean the flattop-model? But those don't have the normal diopter-iron sights, which I don't like.

Looking forward to your pictures.

More pictures of my rifle tomorrow or at the weekend, didn't have time today.
 
hERE sHE is DA bLaCk sPEcIAL :cool:

ARE THE RAILS THE SAME?? how would I go about mounting a frickin laser beam on this thing?

DSCN1420.jpg
 
Hey Kampfhamster can you post a close up of your rail with the aimpoint? (I'd like to see how much spacing there is) also where did you get that low mount?

3rdly I really want an Austin Powers "frickin laser beam" attached to it. Whats the best way to go about it?

fed
 
getting a laser is the easy part. EBAY

mounting solution on the rifle is the issue... short of buying a $700 brugger and thomet rail.

I have googled hard... flogged with airsoft crap and barrel mounts which I don;t want. I have seen a picture of one that uses the bayo lug. looked good but no links or info.

Another option will be a small rail atteached to the side of the upper handguard. (this Is what I am looking for)

fed
 
fed007 said:
Hey Kampfhamster can you post a close up of your rail with the aimpoint? (I'd like to see how much spacing there is) also where did you get that low mount?

3rdly I really want an Austin Powers "frickin laser beam" attached to it. Whats the best way to go about it?

fed

Your rifle looks good, soooooo evil :D

Here is mine:

rail.jpg


It's a normal Swissarms rail. I got it from a friend of mine who works for Swissarms (well, he used to work there, was laid off two months ago)

I wouldn't know how to attach a laser beam, they are evil over here. Guess somebody from the Government watched too many science fiction movies.
 
Whats that number you PS'd out - isnt the serial on the other side of the receiver?

Where did you get that mount? It looks lower than the one I had in mind.

Could you mail me one? (Of course I'd pay you)

fed007
 
fed007 said:
Whats that number you PS'd out - isnt the serial on the other side of the receiver?

Where did you get that mount? It looks lower than the one I had in mind.

Could you mail me one? (Of course I'd pay you)

fed007

Bolt has the last four numbers of the serial number.
 
That's correct, here in Switzerland a bolt is also a controlled item.

Sending a rail isn't really an option. You're probably better off when you order it from TSE. Same price anyway.
 
Trolly Mctrollerson says: No matter what optics Fed007 gets, he still can't shoot for #### :D

-your fellow redneck albertan, who also enjoys explosions, loud noises, and the discharging of firearms. ;)
 
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