Sig Cqb

I am a new user of the 552.
While at the Shot-show I spoke directly with the primary armorer/instructor for the SG552 from Sigarms. I asked him specifically what spare parts or issues were required for the 552. He laughed at me and then advised me that in his experience of firing 10's of thousands of rounds through 552's and 551's that very little if anything ever goes wrong with them. He stated that the only occasional part that fails is the metal recoil spring guide rod on the 552. This has been corrected by replacing it with the new polymer one. He suggested that we obtain polymer ones if we didn't have them already. Other than that he said that he has seen the odd extractor break, but not very often at all. He said that they see a lot of different guns come through their schools but that "Sigs are not like those other guns, they just keep working and never go down".
So far I only have a few thousand rounds through my 552 (Burst, auto and single fire) and have had no issues what-so-ever. No malfunctions of any kind with any ammo including frangible. Very accurate (100meter head shots with open sights no problem on standard B27 type targets).
What sets it apart from other weapons is the way it handles. Very "shootable", easy and natural to hit with. Also the best factory trigger available on any duty assault rifle I have ever tried. (Most Government/Lawenforcement organizations will not allow modifying or changing trigger parts, drop-inns ect.)
If there is a better CQB 5.56mm rifle out there I have not seen or tried it yet (and yes I have used quite a few and operationally not just recreational use on a civillian range).
Can a Sig or Swiss Arms gun fail? Sure, the same as any mechanical device can. I just believe that they are much higher quality and will fail much less than nearly any other weapon system available.
One or two cracked bolt carriers on weapons used in very harsh conditions is peanuts compared to problems that many other weapons experience in much greater numbers (even under non-duty / combat conditions). As Kevin B stated once before, anything can break and he has seen LMT bolts break/shear as well as Swiss Arms.

Rich
 
Rich, thanks for sharing your experiences with this fine rifle. I will be the proud owner of a CQB carbine within a few weeks. It's a very well thought-out and engineered design, it shoulders naturally and once folded the carbine is almost the size of a pistol. I'm already looking to accessorize it, starting with the above-mentioned spring guide. I'd also like an optic mounting rail, like the one pictured:



Is this the Swiss Arms made rail available at TSE for close to $300? How does it compare to anything from B&T or Rooster?
 
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The Swiss Arms or B&T rails (SAN seems to ship them interchangeably) is $249. SAN also does a Universal mount which is more complex and more $$$. We have both in stock.
 
Rich LPS said:
One or two cracked bolt carriers on weapons used in very harsh conditions is peanuts compared to problems that many other weapons experience in much greater numbers (even under non-duty / combat conditions).

Actually the majority of the Sigs on this contract broke, not a few. Looking forward to the plastic rods but I'm not switching back to a weapon I don't trust. Hopefully the plastic rod solves the problem as some of the tight asses are still carrying the 552 instead of forking out the cash for a M4/FAL/AK/whatever.
 
koalorka said:
I'm already looking to accessorize it, starting with the above-mentioned spring guide. I'd also like an optic mounting rail, like the one pictured:

K...if you are purchasing a new batch of the CQBs, they should already come with the polymer spring guide. If not, then you know where to get them (TSE).

For the top rail, TSE has several options. Best to see what your choices are and then decide on one based on what you are willing pay fork out $$$.

Enjoy your CQB and accessorizing it. :)
 
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edward911 said:
K...if you are purchasing a new batch of the CQBs, they should already come with the polymer spring guide. If not, then you know where to get them (TSE).

For the top rail, TSE has several options. Best to see what your choices are and then decide on one based on what you are willing pay fork out $$$.

I think mine belongs to the latest batch (from Target Sports), good to know. I'm not sure about the top-rail, what are you using? Is the SAN-made rail worth it or would a Bruegger and Thomet do the same? And could anyone identify the rail used in my previous photo?
 
It looks like the B&T as it appears to have the metal locking wedge at the front where it engages the top of the receiver. The Swiss Arms version may appear the same, I don't know as I only have B&T.
 
smgcon said:
It looks like the B&T as it appears to have the metal locking wedge at the front where it engages the top of the receiver. The Swiss Arms version may appear the same, I don't know as I only have B&T.

Do you have a pic of your setup?

BTW, what the hell is with the atrociously overpriced quad-rail?! Jesus H. Christ, $600!
 
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koalorka said:
I think mine belongs to the latest batch (from Target Sports), good to know. I'm not sure about the top-rail, what are you using? Is the SAN-made rail worth it or would a Bruegger and Thomet do the same? And could anyone identify the rail used in my previous photo?

Cannot remember the make of the toprail but it was one of the rails that TSE carried and recommended by JR. the NF scope is mounted with NF rings ontop of a sight-through riser. The riser was required to sight the scope above the irons but still allow the use of the irons with the scope mounted.

The one in your pic looks very similar to the one below installed on the CQB.

CQB_4Rail-Black-1.jpg


It sits higher than the quad rail and IMO perfect height for co-indexing an AimPoint or EOTech.
 
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smgcon said:
It looks like the B&T as it appears to have the metal locking wedge at the front where it engages the top of the receiver. The Swiss Arms version may appear the same, I don't know as I only have B&T.

IIRC, they all have the locking front metal wedge that engages the slot on the receiver and a rear tightening pin to secure the rail.
 
koalorka said:
BTW, what the hell is with the atrociously overpriced quad-rail?! Jesus H. Christ, $600!

Hey K...

Everything in this universe is all relative. :D

You pay $350 for a quality American made quad rail for a $1,500 AR-15.

For a $3,000 Swiss CQB, your pay $600-650 for a Swiss made quad rail.

Atrocious...probably, but take it into comparison to the values of the items that are being compared. :)
 
smgcon said:
Not right now, as I have removed it to install "the atrociously overpriced quad-rail" :)

It looks great!

You should not have to remove the top rail to install the quad rail unless you have the top rail called a 'rooster' which extends over the handguards.

With the 'rooster' top rail, it makes takedown difficult for removing the handguards or quad rail.
 
greentips said:
I gonna call switzerland tomorrow!! Swiss Arms here i come!! I gonna call 'em every two days until I got mine back!!

That will be one heck of a phone bill by the time you are done or when your SA arrives!!!

:eek:
 
I bought mine from TSE last week. It also has the polymer spring guide rod in it.
I tried it out for the 1st time today. I was pleasantly surprised by it's accuracy out to 100yards.
DSC02116.jpg
 
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Orvis said:
I bought mine from TSE last week. It also has the polymer spring guide rod in it.
I tried it out for the 1st time today. I was pleasantly surprised by it's accuracy out to 100yards.

Word of advice...

Put a piece of velcro at the back (left) end of the ejection port.

This will protect the paint from any damaged caused by ejecting brass. :D

Some people use eletrical tape, others use velcro (recommend the loop and not the hook piece of the velcro).
 
edward911 said:
Word of advice...

Put a piece of velcro at the back (left) end of the ejection port.

This will protect the paint from any damaged caused by ejecting brass. :D

Some people use eletrical tape, others use velcro (recommend the loop and not the hook piece of the velcro).


Using the tried and true electrical tape. Works great.
 
Orvis said:
Using the tried and true electrical tape. Works great.

OK...great...did not see it in your picture until I looked closer. You may need a bit more, though, hear the left end of the ejection port as I do not see any coverage with your electrical tape.

This is where most of the damage is caused by the ejecting brass. On the upper left corner of the velcro, you can see a worned in 'smiley'. This where the ejecting brass is causing the damage.

AimPoint_Right.jpg
 
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