Sig P226 Barrel

Remington ammo is amongst the dirtiest burning I have seen.

Our range guns probably see several 100,000 rounds before the barrels, slides or frames fail. It is unlikely that if you have good strong rifling in the barrel that it is worn out. If you don't like the rough patches on the brass, polish up the chamber and keep it clean.
If you don't like the carbon build up, use another type of ammo.
 
Artiz said:
It's all that my gun eats, it doesn't like Winchester stuff AT ALL.

I'll try the "polish the chamber" thing, do you know where I could get some information on how to do it?
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Doesn't like winchester?

I've run hundreds of 115grain FMJ white box Winchester's through my sig without a single problem(other than the crappy maccar magazines). Every 9mm round i've been able to get my hands onto my sig has fed, fired and ejected.
 
Have others give your Sig a try. Next time you're at the range, bring a box of Win ammo and ask one of the RO's (or your shooter friends) to shoot your 226. If they group differently, problem may lie elsewhere and not on the gun.
Good luck!:D




SKS Russian Tula 1950, 1952 and 1953, Sig Sauer P226, Beretta 92 SBC, CZ85 Combat, Para P14 45 Ltd., Para P16 40 Ltd., SigPro 2022 .40S&W, Marlin 60
 
Rottboy_8 said:
Have others give your Sig a try. Next time you're at the range, bring a box of Win ammo and ask one of the RO's (or your shooter friends) to shoot your 226. If they group differently, problem may lie elsewhere and not on the gun.
Good luck!:D




SKS Russian Tula 1950, 1952 and 1953, Sig Sauer P226, Beretta 92 SBC, CZ85 Combat, Para P14 45 Ltd., Para P16 40 Ltd., SigPro 2022 .40S&W, Marlin 60
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I do not believe that changing the operator could change the amount of gas getting past the chamber.
 
It's not a reliability issue, it is 100% reliable with any ammo, believe me.

It's grouping to the upper left (approx. 2" from the center)with Winchester, at 7 meters. At 7 meters with Remington I put everything in the same hole (when I mess up I put one or two a little over that)in the center.
I know how to shoot, and I shoot well it's not an "operator" issue. I shoot their guns better than they do.

I think I know where the problem may come from. The headspace is not the right size, I think it's too long. When I insert a round in the chamber, the back of the round isn't flush with the barrel part that sits on the breech face. It has a little less than 1mm difference but it's not flush at all. And I think the breech face is indeed showing sings of a case moving back when fired, hitting the breech face.
 
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Artiz said:
It's not a reliability issue, it is 100% reliable with any ammo, believe me.

It's grouping to the upper left (approx. 2" from the center)with Winchester, at 7 meters. At 7 meters with Remington I put everything in the same hole (when I mess up I put one or two a little over that)in the center.
I know how to shoot, and I shoot well it's not an "operator" issue. I shoot their guns better than they do.

I think I know where the problem may come from. The headspace is not the right size, I think it's too long. When I insert a round in the chamber, the back of the round isn't flush with the barrel part that sits on the breech face. It has a little less than 1mm difference but it's not flush at all. And I think the breech face is indeed showing sings of a case moving back when fired, hitting the breech face.
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I think you are inventing a problem that does not exist. Stop worrying. If you don't like the crud in the gun, change ammo. If you won't change ammo, then stop complaining about the crud.
The base of the cartridge should sit about 1mm below the end of the barrel hood. Nothing wrong there. If the headspace is too great, the primers will not fire.
To polish the chamber, scrub it out completely with a brush and solvent. This should leave the chamber smooth and shiney. If not, take extremely fine steel wool or use polishing compound on a patch, and put it into a jag, then run the jag at low speed in a drill. DO NOT OVER DO this or you will end up with a scrap barrel. Just polish the chamber area, and remove any rough spots. DO NOT run it into the rifling!
 
I tried the polish thing, the chamber isn't rough like it was before, and it's more on the steel color than black. I think I removed enough of the well-burnt powder. I'll give it a try thursday and see if the brass is still damaged.

The burnt powder on the cases were not as present after the last range trip though, I did change the recoil spring. But it was still badly damaging the brass.
 
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NavyCuda said:
I do not believe that changing the operator could change the amount of gas getting past the chamber.
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I believe the OP is concerned about one ammo grouping differently than others. The next issue is the crud created.
My 226 has seen many boxes of Win ammo with no ill-effects in grouping. I shoot a lot of home molded lead making cleaning a larger chore than factory ammo. As for cleaning the crud, I just whip out the cigar + beer and enjoy cleaning whatever firearm had fired for the day. Makes a fitting end for a fun day at the range!!!:D




SKS Russian Tula 1950, 1952 and 1953, Sig Sauer P226, Beretta 92 SBC, CZ85 Combat, Para P14 45 Ltd., Para P16 40 Ltd., SigPro 2022 .40S&W, Marlin 60
 
I have around 1200 cases waiting to be reloaded at the moment. ;)

I will definately get into reloading, and I will stick with 124gr and what everybody uses, Titegroup. 9mm Ammo is not to be found at a decent price around here anymore, last 3 boxes I bought were $17.99+tx, OUCH. I used to shoot 3-4 boxes a week during the last 2 months, now it's one. :(

And yes, I am concerned about the fact that it doesn't like Winchester White Box AT ALL, I mean, it's litterally grouping 2-3" to the left of the bullseye at 7 meters, when I switch to Rem UMC it's IN the bullseye. Kinda disturbing...
 
Remington UMC is some of the worst filthiest ammo Ive even shot. I use to use it because it was cheap, now I try and avoid it. It shoots ok but is at least double the filth of American Eagle or similar.
 
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