Sig p226 cracked aluminum frame, Can it be repaired

Asekella

Asekella

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So the story starts a couple of days ago when i decided i was going to start reloading, well a half way through reloading 200 9mm shells i noticed a screw was loose on my new powder measure. well i was suppose to be loading 5.0 gr of powder into my shells ( which i was to start with) i decided checking ever tenth shell was an unnecessary practice, then i noticed some casings had more powder than looked proper , remeasured found i was putting 6.8 gr of powder in and a screw was loose on my measure. threw out the last 20 round i pressed and re calibrated. today went to the range to try them out got through about 150, when a piece of my rail got caught in the chamber( oh ####) i am wondering if it is advisable or possible to weld the crack back together or if a gun smith might be able to fix it. i have attached picture to show the damage. will be checking my powder measure every ten shells from now on. any help welcome.
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Please reduce the size of your pictures.
That's more than cracked. That's broken. Like Grizzlypeg says, there's no fixing it. Not likely to be caused by over loaded ammo either. Barrels will break before the frame.
"...of powder..." What powder?
 
Either get the .22 kit or the NP-58 which should work with your slide. Just remember the frame is the "gun" in the eyes of the CFC, so strip the frame of all the parts and then call your CFO as to how to dispose of the frame. there was a thread awhile back on hhow someone fixed a cracked frame, but I suspect the cost was greater than buying the .22cal kit from Marstar or the Np-58.
 
redbirddog said:
sell of the side and strip the frame as a parts package and re-coup your loss.

There is no fixing that.
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Just thinking out loud... Didn't the new NP series have rails built into the locking block to prevent this from happening?

If one were to cut away the remaining rail on the other side and fit such a locking block it might be fixable... The rail might have a gap in it but it still might work... how one would get such a locking block...?
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*EDIT* I just realized from the one pic that the remaining rail is cracked forward as well, isn't it? I guess that blows my idea out of the water...
 
MiltonBradly said:
Just thinking out loud... Didn't the new NP series have rails built into the locking block to prevent this from happening?

If one were to cut away the remaining rail on the other side and fit such a locking block it might be fixable... The rail might have a gap in it but it still might work... how one would get such a locking block...?
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214b3x3.jpg



*EDIT* I just realized from the one pic that the remaining rail is cracked forward as well, isn't it? I guess that blows my idea out of the water...
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i inquired about this idea awhile back, there's a whole thread on the subject of fixing a cracked sig frame rail by replacing the locking block with Norinco's railed locking block, lotsa comments mostly it would be a problem aligning the locking block rails to the rear frame rails, but its worth a try. i even started a thread on sig forum on the subject, lotsa controversy for such a fix. I still believe it would work, but die hard sig fans think it blasphemous to add a norc product into a sig pistol... this is if the 226 norc block even will fit in the 226 sig.

i contacted CANAM about ordering the norc railed locking blocks and they said they would bring some in on the next shipment. give them a ring see if they got them in. i was going get get a couple just for such a fix.
 
MapleSugar said:
X2, it should be warrantied against such defects. You should get a brand new pistol from them, or at least a new frame.

It might be a good idea to not mention shooting reloads through it, and have this thread deleted.
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I dont think they will look into this thread... I mean, these forums can only be viewed by registered users...


But yeah, I'll bet they'll take care of you...
 
What does the empty brass look like from the rounds that you fired. How do the primers look?

Never seen a broken slide rail like that on a SIG before.

Maybe post this thread and pics on sigforum to see if any of those guru`s have any worthwhile input.
 
look at the serial number, that gun is pretty old ( +15 years ). Sig will not even go there if you called them. Up to over the 300k mark Sigs had problems with the rails cracking, If they were not maintained. I have a Sig in the same serial number range with over 70k through it. I have to keep it super lubed so there's less stress on the rails and I shoot lite puff, puff practice rounds through her only.

You can part all the bits out and make up to $400 on that and get the Police to come pick up the frame and have it properly destroyed.
 
well thank you guys for the info question isn't the 22 conversion just a slide and mag, im not sure. the gun has had over 100000 rounds through it though so maybe lack there of reloading skills were not to bad. does anyone know where i could buy a new frame? or should i scrap it and recoup my losses?
 
barrel is fine original barrel had a swelled chamber when i bought it , the primers on the brass were normal not over expanded either, im going to have to agree though i expected my sig to be more of a pig (eats anything you feed it) but i view it more as a piglet now=(
 
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