Sig P226 Mk25 NSWC (navy) *Unboxing*

Questar said:
The Navy is discontinued... it was the 'commercial version' that SIG used to sell, before SIG started selling the MK25 version now offered.

SIG cleared out the last of their in-stock Navy versions some months ago and that is why anyone who has any left is offering them at discounted pricing... we sold the last of our Navy models a number of months ago when SIG announced they would be releasing the MK25 versions.

One issue we used to have with the "Navy" model was that many were shipped from SIG without all of the internals having the phosphate finish as the actual NSWG guns came with... many of the guns we used to get from SIG arrived missing the phosphated internals and we had to get the correct parts from SIG and install them before selling them to customers... in the US there was a big deal about this on some of the forums because SIG posted that they sold the guns without actually claiming to include the phosphate internals.

If you can get the old "Navy" version and if it has the phosphate internals and 3 all steel magazines, then it's a great deal at the $899 Cabela's is clearing them out at.
Click to expand...

Ok. We all can easily check whether the magazines made from steel or not, and how many come with the gun.

The question is how we as customer making sure that the gun has the phosphate internals whether we buy it from Questar or any other dealers, or Cabelas? Are we pretty much just have to take their words?
 
When we sold them (the Navy model) we specifically advertised that the gun included the same phosphated internals that the NWSG guns were shipped with... Many US vendors did not make that specific claim which is how they avoided having to fix those guns that arrived without. Simply verify the gun is being sold with those parts and when it arrives verify you got what you paid for.
 
I always wondered what those little QR stickers are for? I see them on US military guys rifles, optics, ect. Is it just for inventory, or stock in the factory?
 
anyone knows how to verify whether the internal parts are phosphated or not? Is it visible to the naked eye, or do you need a gun smith to do this for you?
 
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