I have a non SRT west german Sig, love the gun, but I am interested in trying out the SRT trigger. I see the kits for sale on EE for around $140. My question is, does it reduce the reset enough that it makes a 140 dollar difference? Im not opposed to spending the cash, but I dont want to waste it on an upgrade I might find marginal.
Sig SRT upgrade, is it worth it?
- Thread starter SlimTim
- Start date
You can test out the SRT effect on a non-SRT 226.
Just take off the slide, pull the trigger, keep the trigger at full pull, then push the tab down on the right hand side of the frame while you #### the hammer. Now, when you let the trigger out, it will reset at the SRT point.
Personally I think the SRT is awesome...IMO it is the only unqualified improvement SIG has made in a long time.
Just take off the slide, pull the trigger, keep the trigger at full pull, then push the tab down on the right hand side of the frame while you #### the hammer. Now, when you let the trigger out, it will reset at the SRT point.
Personally I think the SRT is awesome...IMO it is the only unqualified improvement SIG has made in a long time.
You just instantly sold me on it with that tip! many thanks for that. The reduction in the reset is incredible, and it kind of takes away a lot of the pre travel that I dont really like in the Sig trigger. By resetting so short you dont have to take up that extra slack before the break. I cant wait to get one now and try it with some live fire.
Yeah, I think it's incredible. I can't run SIGs well without it; years of glocks and 1911s result in me constantly short-stroking the 226.
But with the SRT I think the triggers are awesome.
But with the SRT I think the triggers are awesome.
Ive been having the exact same problem. I own three pistols, the Sig and my other two being a Glock 17 and a 1911. I ride the reset on all of them but with the Sig, after the reset there is a good amount of pre travel before it lets off the sear again. Now with this SRT it will be eliminated, even just playing around with that tip you told me the difference is remarkable, the reset is incredibly short and if you ride the reset there will be zero pre travel before releasing the sear again.
Upon further consideration, I'm going to have to call BS. The only thing that tab does is prevent the trigger bar engaging when the slide is out of battery - notice that circley bit milled on the inside of the right side of the slide. With the same trigger bar and the same sear, they're going to engage at the same point and give you exactly the same reset distance.
You just proved that certain parts of your gun function normally, by doing exactly the same thing that your slide would do had it cycled...
On the upside, if you convinced yourself that THAT was a short reset, an actual SRT kit is going to blow you away.
That tab has nothing to do with the firing pin block. The safety lever disengages the firing pin block. The tab that you were pushing down on, when the slide is out of battery, gets pushed down by a lack of that milled bit that I mentioned before, preventing the gun from firing when out of battery. Really. Pull your slide off and have a look. While you've got the slide off, pull out the trigger bar. See that small vertical tab just forward of the DA ramp? That's what engages the "tab" on the sear, which disengages the sear from the SA notch on the hammer, allowing the hammer to fall. SA reset is determined by this engagement alone, between trigger bar and sear, so tell me, how does pushing the trigger bar vertically down shorten the engagement?
To look at it another way, you see the way the (larger) tab rides on the inside of the slide? You pushing it down with your finger is EXACTLY what the slide does when it cycles. Pull off the right grip panel and watch it happen. There is ZERO difference in the reset you just experienced and the reset you experience while firing.
If you still insist that it's shorter:
https://www.officialenzyte.com/
Without depressing the tab, a 226 resets at about .255"
If the tab is pushed in reset distance drops to around .100"
So either I am lying about the measurements, which incidentally I just checked with a set of calipers, or you do not understand the mechanics of the gun as well as you think you do.
Take your slide off, pull the trigger, press the tab, #### the hammer, let out to reset. Measure this distance. Compare it to the reset distance when cycling the slide and get back to us.
OldFrankHog
CGN frequent flyer
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+1 for SRT.
Couldn't believe the difference first time I pulled the trigger, or rather released it for the first time
Couldn't believe the difference first time I pulled the trigger, or rather released it for the first time
Alright, I'll give it a try when I get a chance, but it makes no sense to me unless the trigger bar is stretching. The sear's in the same place. The trigger starts out in the same place. The trigger bar is pushed down by the slide anyways. What the hell am i missing? This is witchcraft, I tell you.
I'll give it a shot.
The difference is this - and in fact it's kind of a trick because the pushing of the tab is almost a mental decoy when trying to figure out the mechanics of this - when the slide is off, you are effectively bypassing the firing pin block.
So the difference is not that you are pushing down on the disconnector, which the slide does for you in normal cycling of the weapon. It's that you are able to reset the sear without engaging the firing pin block in the slide. When the slide is back on, the firing pin block engages, and when you pull the grips on your 226 and look, as I would guess you're likely to do, you will see the effect this has and why it lengthens the reset.
Not witchcraft...you are just forgetting the effect that the slide has on the trigger function.
Therefore the lesson we can all learn is this: be hesitant when calling BS on something just because you can't imagine how it works in your head, particularly if I said it!
If I did not know this worked, I would not have commented advising anyone to use this approach to test the feel of an SRT. I do not like to further pollute the internet with poorly researched ramblings. It's bad enough already.
So the difference is not that you are pushing down on the disconnector, which the slide does for you in normal cycling of the weapon. It's that you are able to reset the sear without engaging the firing pin block in the slide. When the slide is back on, the firing pin block engages, and when you pull the grips on your 226 and look, as I would guess you're likely to do, you will see the effect this has and why it lengthens the reset.
Not witchcraft...you are just forgetting the effect that the slide has on the trigger function.
Therefore the lesson we can all learn is this: be hesitant when calling BS on something just because you can't imagine how it works in your head, particularly if I said it!
If I did not know this worked, I would not have commented advising anyone to use this approach to test the feel of an SRT. I do not like to further pollute the internet with poorly researched ramblings. It's bad enough already.
Alright, just pulled out an old sear and compared it to a picture of an SRT sear. Even without the safety lever in the equation, the "tab" on the SRT sear is still considerably further forward than on the non-SRT. I just don't think that doing this is at all the same as an SRT. (Or else SIG, instead of saying "reduces reset by 60%!" would've just said "what does a SRT do? Do this! See for yourself!")
Now what I need to compare is this little fanagling vs an actual SRT in the same gun. Fooling the safety lever may shorten the distance, but there's no way it's the same.
Of course, unless someone's just about to install an SRT kit, this'll probably involve taking measurements with the SRT bits, switching out the parts, measuring again, and switching the parts back.
Which I will probably do, now that I've got it stuck in my head. Because I am obsessive.
Now what I need to compare is this little fanagling vs an actual SRT in the same gun. Fooling the safety lever may shorten the distance, but there's no way it's the same.
Of course, unless someone's just about to install an SRT kit, this'll probably involve taking measurements with the SRT bits, switching out the parts, measuring again, and switching the parts back.
Which I will probably do, now that I've got it stuck in my head. Because I am obsessive.
Give it a try...the SRT works by defeating the FPB. What I am describing is exactly what an SRT kit will do.
And as it happens, while looking for info on installing SRT kits just about an hour ago, I actually ran across Todd Green's explanation of the SRT. It may sound familiar...
Not sure if you know Todd or not but in addition to being the originator of the FASTest and owner of pistol-training.com he is also a former SIG rep. He does not own a properly fitting vest, however.
And as it happens, while looking for info on installing SRT kits just about an hour ago, I actually ran across Todd Green's explanation of the SRT. It may sound familiar...
Not sure if you know Todd or not but in addition to being the originator of the FASTest and owner of pistol-training.com he is also a former SIG rep. He does not own a properly fitting vest, however.
